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New Restoration Project Started - 13046 - Riverside, CA  Rating:  Rating
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 Posted: 11-01-2014 06:54 pm
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Randallclary@icloud.com
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Thanks for the info, now I know.

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 Posted: 11-01-2014 07:58 pm
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Another option for side marker lights that looks good but still provides for nighttime visibility is to substitute 1968 Dodge/Plymouth lights (the ones that came on Chargers, Coronets, Darts, etc.). They wire up easily but do require welding or leading in the small holes that hold the stock fixture in place. I think they're effective and they're less obtrusive than the larger, stock units.

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 Posted: 12-02-2014 05:38 am
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Randallclary@icloud.com
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I may go ahead and install the rear bumper closer to the body. The silver paint on both the front and rear bumpers looks great. If I can just get the rear stainless top cover restored I might go that way. I have put the front bumper back on the car and have new interior liner material purchased from Eastwood. I will post pictures in the next couple of days showing progress. Thanks to Terry Morgan and his 74 JH (Melba), I will be using his old dash from his parts car and have that recovered.

I will also show some pics of the seats that came with my car from one of the PO's. If anyone recognizes the type of car it came from, it would be appreciated.

The status of the engine rebuild is that we are assembling the head which was ported and upgraded at West Coast Racing Heads for the 2.2L - 10.5:1 compression heads. Will be using the old rods which are in great shape. We are in the process of coming up with the proper shim list and should have that complete in the next week or so.

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 Posted: 12-02-2014 05:41 am
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Randallclary@icloud.com
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see my latest posting of the project. Looks like the rear bumper mounted closer to the car will work for me. I just need to repair the top stainless cover on the rear bumper. The front bumper top stainless cover is acceptable at the moment.

I also rebuilt the heater and it turned out fairly good. I do need to test the heater core. Any suggestions as the best way to check it?

Last edited on 12-02-2014 05:42 am by Randallclary@icloud.com

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 Posted: 12-02-2014 02:07 pm
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Brett Gibson JH5 20497
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Block off one side, put a gauge and air fitting on the other, put a bit of air pressure in it and see if it holds pressure. Not sure what the books say's for the amount of pressure but I used 15 lbs with no issues. Or take it to a radiator shop I'm sure they would do it for you for a small fee.
Brett

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 Posted: 10-31-2015 04:05 am
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Randallclary@icloud.com
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Well I've been so very busy over the last year working on the car. Have completed the upgrade project on the engine and am getting ready to put it into the restored body within the next two weeks. The pics that I will post may or may not have explanations. Hopefully they will help if anyone in in the middle of an engine rebuild or restoration. This journey has been quite an experience. How about first a few pics of what I started with and then the condition of the car today.

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 Posted: 12-04-2015 07:09 am
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Randallclary@icloud.com
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Went a little quicker than anticipated and put the engine and transmission back in yesterday. Initially put the transmission back in and then put the engine back in and seemed to have problems getting the transmission spline shaft to engage with the engine. Tried this for about 45 min without success and decided to take everything else out again and instead bolt the engine and transmission together as a single unit and then put that back into the car. I then put back the steering linkage thru the new 4 in 1 manifold and made the connection on both ends. This was a little tricky , but it did fit and looke to be clear thru all degrees of rotation.

This went very quickly and was able to slide everything into place quite easily. Got the tail shaft of the transmission connected to the drive shaft and then the other end connected to the differential. Placed the rear transmission crossmember support and realized that the rubber support was broken so ordered a new one from Delta. Expect it in tomorrow. Then I put in the tunnel support and 2 aluminum spacers.

This is where I may have a little problem. I have one split space washer on each side motor mount and with the tunnel support in, the forward universal seems to bind up against the support crossmember. Any ideas of how to line up things properly?

Last edited on 12-04-2015 07:17 am by Randallclary@icloud.com

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 Posted: 12-06-2015 07:02 am
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Randallclary@icloud.com
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Well today I changed tactics and decided to be a bit more aggressive in getting the clearance for the steering rod thru the headers opened up and the drive shaft more in line with the engine transmission. I opened up the holes in the transmissiom crossmember so I could move the tailshaftt of the transmission toward the passenger side. It seemed to work and all looks good for now. Now to hook up the clutch cable and confirm that the clutch works properly.

Goals for tomorrow is that as well as complete the installation of the water pump and alternator. I think those will be fairly straight forward.

Last edited on 12-07-2015 07:16 am by Randallclary@icloud.com

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 Posted: 12-07-2015 07:23 am
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Randallclary@icloud.com
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Got the water pump, pulley, fan and alternator all mounted. Got the clutch working and the throttle cable connected. Still need to seal around the peddle housing to keep water from entering the drivers foot area. But you know it never rains in California. Got most of the radiator hoses in as well as the new Aluminum radiator.

I need new hose grommets for the oil cooler lines. The lines almost seem a little short, but I will see if all hook up before getting back to Mike at Delta. He has been a lot of help over the last couple of years of this restoration.

Tomorrow I am going to start on the fuel system and reinstall the fuel pump and fuel tank. I am going to reverse the feed for the Dellorttos and feed from the rear and not the front. The conversion looks pretty straightforward.

My goal is to put power to the ground wheels before the end of December. Looks like it might be possible.

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 Posted: 12-10-2015 08:50 pm
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Tom Bradley
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Be careful putting in the oil cooler hoses. I bought a pair with the stainless steel braid from Delta recently. It was definitely a tight fit. In the process of getting them in I think I pulled too much on one of the right-angle ends that connect to the oil cooler so there was a slight oil leak that I did not notice for some time. Pushing the hose back over the metal sleeve seems to have fixed it, but I would have more confidence if it had never leaked in the first place.

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 Posted: 12-11-2015 06:00 am
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Randallclary@icloud.com
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Thank you for the tips,. Today I tightened the cooler hoses on to the cooler and confirmed that I had enough slack to be able to make the connections on the oil filter. Tomorrow I plan to fill the engine and transmission with oil. I plan to first fill the cooler with oil then make up the connections at the filter. I have a new steel braided oil pressure line coming from the local Sunbeam Tiger club.

Having problems finishing up the electrical work but I expect with patience and help from my friend Frank Zizzo, Lord Lucas Prince of Darkness will not prevail. Actually got the rear lights working clearing grounding issues and a failed battery replaced. Got the starter working and so we are getting close to trying to get it started and running. Most everything under the dash was a rats nest but it will get fixed.

Last edited on 12-11-2015 06:01 am by Randallclary@icloud.com

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 Posted: 12-25-2015 06:41 am
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Randallclary@icloud.com
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Guess what. It started the first time we fired it up. We could not believe it, but caution and the great help from my two friends Dan Walters and Frank Zizzo both of Tiger andShelby Cobra fame made it happen.

We got the car runniing with the majority of problems getting the oil pump primed properly to get proper oil pressure. Had to take the timing belt off and drive the oil pump with a drill motor. Still not great pressure, so we filled the oil lines to the cooler and force fed the cooler with oil before reattaching hoses and again priming the pump. Finally got oil pressure and were comfortable enough to start the engine again and let it run for a while.

Thats when we found the the cam covers leaked so we ended up taking them off again and used the paper gasket and RTV. Almost no leaks, but I will again take them off and do a super job sealin g them with the paper gasket and a lot more RTV. We will get this fixed soon.

Next is to tune the Delorttos and get it running properly. I made a separate post to get info on the proper spark plugs for the 2.2 stroker crank motor with the 10.5:1 JE pistons. Would like the proper gap also. Can anyone help here.

Get this behind us and can complete the interior door panels and ge the rebuilt dash and interior completed. Still ahve to put the new windshield in and then finally install the hood and complete buttoning up the car. Really getting close.

My goal is to get the car road worthy and drive it to the next JH meeting about 50 miles away without the need for a tow or breaking down. That will be an accomplishment!

I know that I've promised getting photos out of this rebuild, but using the JH forum is a pain. Any ideas where I could post pics for all to be able to view?

Last edited on 12-25-2015 06:45 am by Randallclary@icloud.com

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 Posted: 02-28-2016 05:42 am
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Randallclary@icloud.com
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New status post on progress:

Interior almost complete with the exception of the door panels. Doors and windows work fairly well.

Dash is complete and started to check all instruments. The tach seems to work, Oil pressure and gas gage have been fixed and are working. Voltage meter is working. Temp seems be be steady and within limits. Speedometer was pretty gummed up and needed to be freed up. Got a new cable from the Club Store and need to get it properly hooked up to the trans and get the cable turning at the speedo input. Had the dash and crush liner recovered. Looks great.

The car runs like a rocket. Unbelievable the difference in torque thru the gears. I know I'll never get my investment back today except in the form of crazy acceleration. I replaced the exhaust system with the Delta 4 in 1 header and had it heat treated with a silver coating and then replaced the muffler with a single resonator (middle) and resonators (2) on the split tailpipe. Sounds great.

I finally decided to get the thick rubber cam cover gaskets and that seems to have cured the oil leaks on the cam covers. I painted the cam covers to match the silver color of the car. Looks much cleaner than before. I painted the set from a spare engine and put those in to replace the cam covers that had been put in with RTV and the thinner paper gaskets. I think if I had installed those gaskets properly it would not have leaked. Lesson learned.

I still have a nightmare of wires to figure out under the dash and heater controls as well as coming up with a modern sound system.

Still have to fit the front lights and bumper which I'm still trying to figure out.

I've added a Accusump prelube system from Summit Racing and just need to complete the plumbing from the intake of the oil filter to the accumulator of the Accusump. Still have to electrically connect the control valve to the starting circuit of the car. That seems fairly simple (i hope).

I restored the Aluminum alloy wheels and they turned out fairly well. I have JH wheels but do not want to install those wheels on the car.

I want to put new mirrors and would appreciate ideas for high quality great looking mirrors. I want chrome mirrors.

Finally will attach the bonnet with the addition of gas struts. I got replacement springs and need to put clear covers on the restored springs.

I have a 50th HS reunion coming up and want to drive the 250 miles each way in a reliable vehicle. Hopefully it will be my restored 1973 JH 13046.

Last edited on 02-28-2016 05:54 am by Randallclary@icloud.com

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 Posted: 02-28-2016 06:13 pm
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Congratulations on the progress; it sounds like you're in the home stretch. If you don't like the stock mirrors, there'e always bullet-style mirrors. Certainly it's subjective, but they have a classic, race car look and they're period correct as well. However, the ones I'd recommend aren't chrome but stainless (though they can be polished up to a mirror-like finish). I like the ones made by Tex in the UK - easily found on ebay, etc. I'm certain a search would yield chrome versions as well.

I have the plans to make the gas strut conversion on the hood as well. It's been my understanding that the struts replace the springs and they are no longer needed. Perhaps I'm mistaken but I thought I'd raise the issue.

Also, where did you go to recover the dash? I'm looking into that as well and could use a good recommendation. What was the cost?

Clinton

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 Posted: 03-01-2016 08:49 am
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Randallclary@icloud.com
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We just recovered the existing dash with new material and added double stitching along the outline of the dash as viewed from the driver's perspective. I will post a bunch of pics as soon as I get some time to do so, I think that you would be impressed. The cost should not be more than $200. It's part of the total restoration of the interior which in total is about $2000. Seats, carpeting, crush liner, carpets and mats, trunk and all trunk walls, door insides with new side panels and armrests, center counsel and shifter cover. Fairly reasonable for the amount of work done.

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 Posted: 04-27-2016 05:54 am
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Randallclary@icloud.com
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Latest update. Pics still to be posted.

Had noise when hitting uneven pavement and I suspected that the cover plate that protects the universal did not have enough clearance from the joint. I removed it and found out that it was rubbing. I called some other JHPS members and was told that the part was not on some of the later cars with a single piece drive shaft. I left it off and took it for a spin and no noise. The car seems real sold now.

I replaced the cas tank with an aluminum one from Jorge at Jaguar specialities. I drove to Chula Vista and picked it up from his warehouse. He is closing his business after 47 years. He still has a few JH steel and aluminum gas tanks. I was fairly happy with the one that I received from him last week. Quite a bit lighter. Paid $389 for it. The old steel tank was messed up on the inside with some rust and PO had attempted to coat the interior and stuff was flaking off and getting into the fuel. My fuel filter now runs clean.

Put in new seat belts found on eBay for $17.50 each. FIt very well. I did not reconnect the seat belt light circuit.

Snapped my new speedometer cable when it kinked when putting the instrument panel back it. Have to order a new one and will not make the same expensive mistake again.

Got everything working again electrically, well almost. I suspect that I have a bad fuse box and will use a spare one from my parts car if it is in good condition. Otherwise I will make a new fuse box and reconnect cables into the new box. The middle circuit keeps going out, does not blow a fuse, just has a poor connection in the box. This circuit affects the brake lights and heater fan circuit.

Put a new stereo in that is iPhone compatible. New skeakers in the doors, new antenna, and new rear speakers.

Hooked up the solenoid to my Accusump and just have to complete the plumbing to the incoming line from the oil cooler to the oil filter. This is to prime the engine prior to starting each time I start the engine.

Have put a total of 150 nmiles on the rebuilt engine and my only concern is low oil pressure. I am in the process of putting a new oil pressure line and checking the oil pressure with a different gauge. I might have to rebuild the oil pump. Not sure at the moment. Will let you know after I confirm that I really have low oil pressure. Reads less than 5 lbs when at warm idle. About 35 lbs when warm and running above 2000 rpm.

The tach seems to waver at 5000 rpm, not sure what is going on and I do not want to go higher at this time until I'm sure about my oil situation.

The car is a lot more than I expected as far as HP and torque. Its really a thrill to drive since I got the drive shaft noise to go away with the removal of the universal guard.

Promise, pictures to follow.

Last edited on 04-27-2016 05:57 am by Randallclary@icloud.com

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 Posted: 04-27-2016 06:04 pm
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Is this the 1/4" steel cover plate that bolts to each side of there transmission tunnel? If so, it has always been my understanding that the primary purpose of this plate is for structural rigidity - it connects the unit body floor pans at a weak spot. Perhaps that was just an assumption on my part. Can anybody else chime in?

Clinton

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 Posted: 04-27-2016 07:49 pm
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Randallclary@icloud.com
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There is a support under the transmission that secures the transmission to the car frame unibody. It has a rubber support mounted on to to isolate between the support and the bottom of the transmission.

The tunnel support I mentioned is directly under the output of the transmission and looks like the purpose was to keep the drive shaft in place if the drive line broke at the spline into the rear of the transmission.

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 Posted: 04-28-2016 01:26 am
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Sander
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Universal plate? .... Are you talking about the anti pole vault plate. It's at the rear of the tranny and front of the drive shaft ... if the universal joint breaks the drive shaft cradles in the plate so it doesn't hit the ground causing the rear of the car to "pole vault".

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 Posted: 09-12-2016 06:41 am
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Randallclary@icloud.com
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Finally going to update project status. I am almost complete. For the past several months I have had a heck of a time getting this beast to run properly. Sometimes it was running great tand then it would start sputtering and backfire. I looked at everything, well almost everything. Checked timing, plugs, fuel system, fuel pump, fuel pressure, fuel flow into the carburetors. Seems nothing ever changed the problem.

Well finally I decided to look into the new Delorttos for the 2nd and 3rd times. Finally figured it was a couple of things.

I noticed that the amount of fuel in front carburetor float area was much lower than the rear. The fuel feeds from the rear to the front. I had checked to make sure the needle valves operated by the floats were set properly. They were. That is whenfor the 3rd time I found out that there is a pinkie sized filter in the carburetor just ahead of each needle valve and that the suspect one was indeed clogged. I didn't even know this filter existed.

It was plugged with debris and I cleared it. Ran much better, but it still popped and backfired somewhat. It was then that I noticed that the o-rings between the Delorttos and the intake manifold had been pushed out from their respective seats. I removed the carburetors far enough to be able to reseat the o-ring and retighted the carburetor back to the manifold making sure that the o-rings remained seated properly.

I remember having a couple of of the backfires feel like they came thru the accelerator cable. This must bave been the ones that dislodged the o-rings.

Once these adjustments were completed, I again started the car and everything was a whole lot better. We are still going to final adjust the carbs with a air/fuel minature meter with an O2 sensor. Timeing is set pretty well, but we can final adjust the timing and the adjustable cams if necessary.

Still have to put in the new speedometer cable and take care of tack issues with the Pertronix ignition. Lastly, I need to install the new Robbins softtop and cover and hook up the heater. I think that I will put a shutoff for the heater inside the engine compartment and only have it on in the winter.

I have been driving the car every day and plan on finally driving it to the JHPS meeting in So CA this next week.

Attached are some pics of the completed car so far.

Attachment: IMG_0449.jpg (Downloaded 45 times)

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