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Darth V8Rs project  Rate Topic 
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 Posted: 08-07-2023 03:12 am
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vnavaret
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Here is my first quarter panel repair. There were a couple of dime sized holes, and a several BB sized ones. Cut out the area, and out fell a pound of dirt. Guess I know now how the quarter panel came to be rusted.

This makes me wonder if this is a flood car, as I don't know how that much dirt could get in there in daily driving. The fitch panel in the wheel well closing off this area is intact and not rusted. There are rubber seals around the panel, but maybe there is some way it could get in there that I have not discovered yet.
Enjoy...

Attachment: RRQtrPanel.jpg (Downloaded 84 times)

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 Posted: 08-07-2023 03:13 am
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vnavaret
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Here is the completed repair on the LR quarter panel. Two more quarter panels to repair.


Attachment: repair.jpg (Downloaded 85 times)

Last edited on 08-15-2023 04:40 pm by vnavaret

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 Posted: 09-23-2023 11:57 pm
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vnavaret
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Lads:
I have a surplus 4 speed available for free to a good home.
Located in the Portland Oregon area, text me at (503)608-8206 if interested.
The car was inoperative when I acquired it, so the state of the transmission is unknown and it should be regarded as a core.
If no one claims it, it is going to the scrap yard.
Vance

Attachment: IMG_0354[1].jpg (Downloaded 68 times)

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 Posted: 09-30-2023 08:00 pm
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vnavaret
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Lads:

Been quite a while since I posted an update. Well here it is. All the cutting and welding is done, and I am getting the car ready to paint. I have borrowed a large cart, and in the attached image, I am getting ready to deposit it on the cart. I will drop the suspension, and using my chain hoist lift it on to the cart.

My welding is not the best, but a thin skim of filler over the areas I have repaired and the new steel will be invisible. Three quarter panels required new steel due to extensive rust perforations in the lower 5 inches. Both front inner fenders required extensive patching due to botched previous repairs, and both front frame rails need aligning and reinforcing where  previous repairs had failed completely. Important tip: Do not use brazing to section a car. It has poor fatigue resistance and lower strength than welding. The previous body tech did not heed this important information. Doh!

I have ordered seat covers and vinyl from Riverbourne classics in the UK, in biscuit. I am therefore committed to my original plans for a biscuit interior and British Racing Green exterior. I have not committed to carpet color yet, but I am thinking a cocoa powder brown to highlight the biscuit seats and door skins. I have not committed to this, however. Biscuit carpet would give the interior a totally matching look, but I am partial to things like accent walls in houses that make rooms pop, so am considering a similar concept for the interior.

Just Dashes in CA still have my dash, estimated total turn around time is about 8 months, so I cannot recommend them to anyone. A long lead time, and a demand for payment before they even start the work leaves me feeling little sympathy for their business model. Oh well, at least they are outrageously expensive. Those guys should wear a mask and hold a gun when giving estimates. Sheesh. Well, stay tuned for further (snail like) progress reports.

Vance

Attachment: IMG_0356[2].jpg (Downloaded 57 times)

Last edited on 09-30-2023 08:06 pm by vnavaret

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 Posted: 11-03-2023 04:15 am
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vnavaret
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Status update on "Rusty" the car.

I received my seat covers from Riverbourne classics, Allison answers the phones there and she is terrific. I also ordered some extra vinyl to cover the bare panels I got some time back. I was going to make my own, but found a set of die cut panels on eBay for less than $200, so decided to go that route.

I also got my dash back from Just Dashes. They had my dash for 8 months and I finally gave up and sent them an email (they do answer their emails, a small plus) demanding the return of my dash and a refund. I did not hear from them for two business days, then voila! An email saying the work was complete and the dash had been shipped. I don't believe they touched it until they received my request for a refund. The work is of good quality, but gruesomely overpriced, and the lead time is, well... ridiculous. Not recommended. Picture is attached. They painted and recovered the dash and instrument binnacle, and installed new silver piping on the binnacle.

The body is getting shipped off on Monday for paint. I have changed my mind on the color, too many LBCs get either British Racing Green or red. So I am going with Triumph Delft Blue. Call me crazy.

I have started pressing the bushings out of the suspension, and am tearing down the front chassis assembly. Bought some cheap spring compressors from Harbor Freight, and KYB front and rear shocks. I am thinking that the front assembly will be powder coated, but have not committed to that yet. That's it for now.

Vance

Attachment: Just Dashes.jpg (Downloaded 44 times)

Last edited on 11-03-2023 04:28 am by vnavaret

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 Posted: 11-28-2023 01:59 am
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vnavaret
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Just an update of recent work.

I have completed the tear down of the front suspension, and disassembled the hubs. I am planning on new wheel bearings and seals.

I ended up pressing the centers out of all the bushings. The metal inserts and the shells are all vulcanized together, which means that you cannot just press out the rubber (upper control arms are an exception). This left rubber sticking to the inside of the shells. From there I used a hacksaw to cut the shell from the inside, then a hammer and a drift to drive out the shells. Pretty crude, but it got the job done.

I have stripped the front calipers, but the pistons seem to be rusted into place despite the rubber dust seals being intact. This is pretty common if the brake fluid does not get changed as it is hygroscopic and absorbs water. From there the water rusts everything from the inside out. After the brakes get rebuilt, DOT5 fluid will be used as it does not absorb water and rust things. Plus, it does not damage paint if things leak.

Many people claim that seals fail when DOT5 is used, but I have used it on my last 3 restorations without a problem. I suspect that people convert an existing system to DOT5 and their old seals give up the ghost, so they blame the fluid.

I will probably need to replace the pistons (when I manage to get them out) as they are likely to be pitted, but we shall see.

Oh yeah, the car is off for paint. I had to delay painting as when I refitted the bonnet the panel gaps were horiffic. The PO had sectioned the nose, and was not watching the dimension between the outer fenders. He got it about  1/2" too wide, so he used filler to build up the inner fender lips to get the panel gaps reasonable. Arrgh! So I ended up slicing out a ribbon of steel from the left inner fender, then used ratcheting straps to pull the outer fenders closer together. I then welded the inner fender to lock the outer fender in place. The panel gaps are now fixed. Anyway, that took me a couple of weekends of fiddling, so paint got delayed a bit.

Stay tuned for more news.

Vance


Last edited on 11-28-2023 02:00 am by vnavaret

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 Posted: 02-03-2024 02:47 am
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vnavaret
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Latest news on Rusty the car...

I decided to toss my old brake calipers as I could not get the pistons out. Compressed air popped one out, but he rest, well, not so much. I asked a buddy what he does for this, and he welds a bolt to the piston and uses a slide hammer. I felt that if I was that desperate, the bores would be pitted so I tossed the old calipers and bought new ones for $90 each. They are the same calipers that the early Spitfires use, so they are readily available stateside. The rear slave cylinders appear to be the same ones that the TR7 4 speed and the TR8 use, so these are not an issue either.

I got some photos back from the body shop, and the car has had all the dents removed and is now in primer. So progress is being made.

In the meantime I have rebuilt the heater (removed a wasp nest, bead blasted, painted with new gaskets), torn down the rear axle, painted the brake drums, powder coated the bumpers, and acquired a bunch more parts. I even got a spare engine so I can replace a cracked cam gallery that the PO had patched with silicone (it didn't work, BTW)

The trailing arms have been cleaned and painted, and I got the last bushings in the rear axle removed. They were the worst to get out - argh.

A tip of the hat to Bruce Madden, who has supplied me with some difficult to find parts for very reasonable prices.

Stay tuned for more news...

Vance

Attachment: IMG_6052.jpg (Downloaded 15 times)

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 Posted: 02-03-2024 03:01 am
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redracer
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Glad to hear you're making progress on your car--hopefully you'll have it ready for spring?
I made a puller for the caliper pistons(looked all over for one but no one has one??). You need to pull the 2 halves apart(DON'T LOSE THE FLAT WASHER THAT GOES BETWEEN THE 2 WHERE THE BRAKE FLUID GOES), and make some type of a puller with small jaws 90 degrees to the shafts.
Anyway, you've already found suitable replacements, but I probably have around 20 sets, so it was a good addition to the tool collection!

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