Home 
> Jensen Healey & Jensen GT Tech > Projects > Darth V8Rs project

 Moderated by: Greg Fletcher  
AuthorPost
Darth V8R
Member


Joined: 12-27-2022
Location: Beaverton, Oregon USA
Posts: 37
Status: 
Offline
Lads, just a shot showing the floor of my car. I will be replacing both floors.
I will be updating photos occasionally.
Vance

Attachment: JH_0286[small].jpg (Downloaded 217 times)

noomg
Member
 

Joined: 08-02-2018
Location: Long Beach, California USA
Posts: 413
Status: 
Offline
Hard to tell from the photo how extensive the corrosion is but if you have to replace the floor pans the cross members (both front and rear) will probably need replacement as well. Mine looked worse and I ended up replacing the passenger floor pan and patching the driver's side along with replacement of a couple of cross members.

Those really nice original black rubber floor mats were largely responsible for most of the rust damage. They were very good at trapping moisture under them when the car got wet.

I see orange was the original color which even back then was an acquired taste, as in usually the last one on the lot. Which is probably why like yours most of them were repainted at some point.

Just a recommendation, I assume the dash is coming out before paint. When reassembling after paint install the windshield before the dash. I did it the other way and it was a real PIA. Not to mention the windshield with no bottom support is very fragile and can be easily cracked if you're not careful.

Darth V8R
Member


Joined: 12-27-2022
Location: Beaverton, Oregon USA
Posts: 37
Status: 
Offline
After I removed one floor. A Fred Flintstone car!

Attachment: IMG_0312[floor].jpg (Downloaded 209 times)

Darth V8R
Member


Joined: 12-27-2022
Location: Beaverton, Oregon USA
Posts: 37
Status: 
Offline
noomg wrote: Hard to tell from the photo how extensive the corrosion is but if you have to replace the floor pans the cross members (both front and rear) will probably need replacement as well. Mine looked worse and I ended up replacing the passenger floor pan and patching the driver's side along with replacement of a couple of cross members.Yes, it is very hard to tell, mainly because the JHPS board limits the resolution of the picture. Careful examination (and a lot of squinting) show that the driver's floor just to the rear of the front seat support is completely perforated. When I removed the interior the only thing left in that location was undercoating. <sigh>

The rear seat support had been replaced with a piece of bar stock at some point, as that support appeared to have completely collapsed.

I have already acquired the cross members, so they will be getting replaced as well.

I stopped short of removing the rearmost section of the floor as the steel was in good shape, and I did not want to detach and reattach the trailing arm to the floor pan if I did not need to. I am concerned about keeping the alignment correct, and haven't a clue as to how to go about insuring that the rear end is properly aligned should I need to weld it back on.

I have acquired a 5 speed gearbox and prop shaft, and plan on replacing the 4 speed. Any caveats to pass along from all the Healey heads out there?

Wish me luck!

Vance

Last edited on 04-16-2023 10:19 pm by Darth V8R

Art DeKneef
Member
 

Joined: 03-12-2005
Location: Mesa, Arizona USA
Posts: 338
Status: 
Offline
Hopefully you took lots of measurements before removing the floor pan. When I did that to one of my cars I took lots of measurements, made some braces for the door openings and for side to side and made everything to be as level as possible in the garage. Also, I made new floor pans before I cut anything. There are a lot of spot welds to go through. Like any kind of surgery like this, it's go slow and keep checking as you proceed.

As for the 5-speed replacement you might have to check the rear joint to make sure it mates with your current rear axle. I have heard some of them had a smaller joint connection that needed to be fixed. I was lucky that mine replaced with little extra drama.

noomg
Member
 

Joined: 08-02-2018
Location: Long Beach, California USA
Posts: 413
Status: 
Offline
Vance,

Looks like it was originally red then painted black, what color are you going to paint it?

Darth V8R
Member


Joined: 12-27-2022
Location: Beaverton, Oregon USA
Posts: 37
Status: 
Offline
I was thinking conifer (a.k.a. British Racing Green) with a biscuit interior. I would need to source the materials for the retrim. Black is so unimaginative, but I want to be careful not to do something too personal - it would make the car harder to sell down the road should I get bored with it.

I am not committed to this scheme however.

noomg
Member
 

Joined: 08-02-2018
Location: Long Beach, California USA
Posts: 413
Status: 
Offline
I don't think there's a better color combo for any LBC than BRG and tan interior IMHO. But I'd take it one step farther and go with leather interior. It's a decision you won't regret.

The fact that you're concerned about getting bored with the car tells me you haven't driven one yet. As an example only two friends have driven my Jensen-Healey, they both own one now.

Darth V8R
Member


Joined: 12-27-2022
Location: Beaverton, Oregon USA
Posts: 37
Status: 
Offline
Here is a picture of the first floor installed and seam sealed, along with the beginning effort on the second floor. My welding is truly awful, which I am blaming on inexperience and a welding helmet that is much too dark for me to see clearly when I am welding.

The dimmer setting on it seems not to work, so no matter where I set the dimmer, it always goes full on dark. I am virtually blind when I strike the arc. <Argh>

Attachment: IMG_0327[floor2].jpg (Downloaded 152 times)

Last edited on 05-06-2023 06:27 pm by Darth V8R

Darth V8R
Member


Joined: 12-27-2022
Location: Beaverton, Oregon USA
Posts: 37
Status: 
Offline
A picture of some of the damage on my dash, which I just shipped off to "Just Dashes" in Van Nuys. The estimate to reskin the dash was terrifying, but at least the UPS charge to get it there was extortionate as well.

Apparently a large, light box is an invitation to ream, steam, and clean the unsuspecting car enthusiast.


As a friend of mine retorted when I complained about the cost of tires for my Corvette, "If you wanna play, ya gotta pay". Jerk. He could have handed me a hanky to cry on, at least.

Attachment: IMG_0320.JPG (Downloaded 152 times)

Last edited on 05-06-2023 06:26 pm by Darth V8R

noomg
Member
 

Joined: 08-02-2018
Location: Long Beach, California USA
Posts: 413
Status: 
Offline
Vance,

I've seen Just Dashes work I'd rate it mediocre at best especially considering their outrageous pricing, I took a pass. You'd be better off using a dash cap from Delta. I was fortunate that I was able to get a pristine example from a buddy's wrecked J/H.

Another option I've seen guys have their's recovered in leather at an upholstery shop and the one's I've seen look rather fantastic. I don't know what they paid but I'm willing to bet it was far less than anything Just Dashes does and looks way better. Also I've heard they have a very long turn around time. Hopefully things go better for you.

Darth V8R
Member


Joined: 12-27-2022
Location: Beaverton, Oregon USA
Posts: 37
Status: 
Offline
Lads:
Got my wheels back from the Wheel Doctor in NE Portland. Wheels were media blasted, powder coated in gloss black, diamond cut on the faces, and clear coated. Lastly, some inexpensive radials were mounted.

They turned out better than new, and will look terrific on the car if I ever get the body work done. =:-o

Cheers,

Vance

Attachment: Restored Wheels.jpg (Downloaded 140 times)

Last edited on 05-17-2023 08:43 pm by Darth V8R

noomg
Member
 

Joined: 08-02-2018
Location: Long Beach, California USA
Posts: 413
Status: 
Offline
Vance,

I'm glad you choose a rescue dog over a turnkey. It means they'll be one more back on the road. That's a good thing since they only made about 10,000 in the first place. I'd guestimate there are at best somewhere between 1,000 to 2,000 survivors and that includes everything from mint condition to just barely still restoreable.

The wheels turned out very nicely which is good news because the question of where to get original wheels restored pops up from time to time.

vnavaret
Member
 

Joined: 04-07-2022
Location: Oregon USA
Posts: 19
Status: 
Offline
Lads:
A few photos of the project, making slow progress.

The passenger floor is in, although I could not install the seat rails as Robey mistakenly sent me two left hand rails instead of a right and left.

I contacted them via email, and they are dispatching a correct right hand rail. So for now I am done with the passenger floor...

Anyway, here is a shot of both floors welded into place.


Attachment: IMG_0344[2].jpg (Downloaded 114 times)

Last edited on 06-19-2023 03:38 am by vnavaret

vnavaret
Member
 

Joined: 04-07-2022
Location: Oregon USA
Posts: 19
Status: 
Offline
Here is a shot of the repairs I have started on the right front inner fender. After I ground away layers of bondo and paint in the engine bay, I discovered that at some point the nose of a parts car had been crudely grafted on to the front of my car. I can tell this because the paint is a different color, a sort of ocher (visible under the orange paint in the top left corner). Anyway, the nose was poorly welded on, the horrific body work hidden under bondo and black paint.

In this photo I have straightened and reattached the frame with some short strips of steel, and cut away some of the wrinkled sheet metal. I have started welding in some new sheet metal to replace some of the repaired section, which had cracked and rusted through.

The front section of the car was being held on only by the outer fenders, since the inner fenders were completely perforated/torn/cracked, and the frame welds had broken through completely. <heavy sigh>

Attachment: IMG_0343[1].jpg (Downloaded 114 times)

Last edited on 06-19-2023 01:43 am by vnavaret

vnavaret
Member
 

Joined: 04-07-2022
Location: Oregon USA
Posts: 19
Status: 
Offline
Lastly, here is the front left inner fender showing the state of the repairs made by my PO. Note that the front of the frame is free floating by virtue of its completely failed welds. Also note the ragged attachment of the inner fender, and many (not shown) perforations from rust. The frame will be cleaned up, reattached, and receive welded reinforcements. The tip of the frame is also badly misaligned, so I will be using a hydraulic jack before reattachment to push it back into alignment. The inner fender bodges will be cut away and replaced with new metal.

I had never welded before, but I have been forced to learn on this car. It is a real challenge!

I am using a $250 flux MIG welder which is messy, but is getting the job done. After cleanup the work actually looks decent. Stay tuned for more updates in the near future.

After this, I will be tackling the rust in the quarter panels, and by then I expect to be pretty dang good at welding with my cheapo welder.

Vance

Attachment: IMG_0342[1].jpg (Downloaded 115 times)

Last edited on 06-19-2023 02:10 am by vnavaret

vnavaret
Member
 

Joined: 04-07-2022
Location: Oregon USA
Posts: 19
Status: 
Offline
Cut out the bad welds on the driver side front frame rail, and used a porta-power hydraulic ram to straighten it out. Worked very well, and I can now proceed with cutting out rotten sheet metal and welding in new steel. My welding skills are slowly improving, so by the time I start to work on the fenders (wings) I should be able to make some pretty much invisible repairs.

Attachment: IMG_0345_small.jpg (Downloaded 94 times)

Last edited on 07-12-2023 07:01 pm by vnavaret

redracer
Member
 

Joined: 09-10-2012
Location: BROOKHAVEN, Georgia USA
Posts: 616
Status: 
Offline
Vance: I didn't look closely the first time, but I see what you're talking about upon further enlarging. The front "clip" slides into that portion(I have 2 of them I cut out years ago) so hopefully, they are welded way back into that opening and not just at the frontal area shown?

vnavaret
Member
 

Joined: 04-07-2022
Location: Oregon USA
Posts: 19
Status: 
Offline
redracer wrote: Vance: I didn't look closely the first time, but I see what you're talking about upon further enlarging. The front "clip" slides into that portion(I have 2 of them I cut out years ago) so hopefully, they are welded way back into that opening and not just at the frontal area shown?
I used strips of 1/8" steel and reinforced the joins on three sides (the fourth side is not enclosed from the factory). Suffice to say that front clip is not going anywhere. Although not as pretty, it is stronger than the original factory joins.
Vance

Last edited on 08-06-2023 06:31 pm by vnavaret

vnavaret
Member
 

Joined: 04-07-2022
Location: Oregon USA
Posts: 19
Status: 
Offline
Lads:
Just wanted to show the completed repairs on the driver side inner fender. I have a couple of pinholes to touch up, but it is done and I am moving on to the quarter panels.

In other news, Just Dashes has had my dash for four months now, and I am still waiting. Not recommended not to mention the high cost of getting the dash reskinned in the first place.

Ordered seat covers from a UK supplier with a 4 week lead time. Selected biscuit as the color, so I am now committed to my BRG/Biscuit color combo.

I also received precut panel pieces (ordered on eBay) that I will cover in matching vinyl. I am thinking a medium brown for the carpet, but have not committed to that yet.

The quarter panel repairs will be very sensitive to good welds and fitment, which is why I am doing them last - I have had lots of practice on repairing sections that are not cosmetic.

Vance

Attachment: IMG_0346[1].jpg (Downloaded 70 times)

vnavaret
Member
 

Joined: 04-07-2022
Location: Oregon USA
Posts: 19
Status: 
Offline
Here is my first quarter panel repair. There were a couple of dime sized holes, and a several BB sized ones. Cut out the area, and out fell a pound of dirt. Guess I know now how the quarter panel came to be rusted.

This makes me wonder if this is a flood car, as I don't know how that much dirt could get in there in daily driving. The fitch panel in the wheel well closing off this area is intact and not rusted. There are rubber seals around the panel, but maybe there is some way it could get in there that I have not discovered yet.
Enjoy...

Attachment: RRQtrPanel.jpg (Downloaded 84 times)

vnavaret
Member
 

Joined: 04-07-2022
Location: Oregon USA
Posts: 19
Status: 
Offline
Here is the completed repair on the LR quarter panel. Two more quarter panels to repair.


Attachment: repair.jpg (Downloaded 85 times)

Last edited on 08-15-2023 04:40 pm by vnavaret

vnavaret
Member
 

Joined: 04-07-2022
Location: Oregon USA
Posts: 19
Status: 
Offline
Lads:
I have a surplus 4 speed available for free to a good home.
Located in the Portland Oregon area, text me at (503)608-8206 if interested.
The car was inoperative when I acquired it, so the state of the transmission is unknown and it should be regarded as a core.
If no one claims it, it is going to the scrap yard.
Vance

Attachment: IMG_0354[1].jpg (Downloaded 68 times)

vnavaret
Member
 

Joined: 04-07-2022
Location: Oregon USA
Posts: 19
Status: 
Offline
Lads:

Been quite a while since I posted an update. Well here it is. All the cutting and welding is done, and I am getting the car ready to paint. I have borrowed a large cart, and in the attached image, I am getting ready to deposit it on the cart. I will drop the suspension, and using my chain hoist lift it on to the cart.

My welding is not the best, but a thin skim of filler over the areas I have repaired and the new steel will be invisible. Three quarter panels required new steel due to extensive rust perforations in the lower 5 inches. Both front inner fenders required extensive patching due to botched previous repairs, and both front frame rails need aligning and reinforcing where  previous repairs had failed completely. Important tip: Do not use brazing to section a car. It has poor fatigue resistance and lower strength than welding. The previous body tech did not heed this important information. Doh!

I have ordered seat covers and vinyl from Riverbourne classics in the UK, in biscuit. I am therefore committed to my original plans for a biscuit interior and British Racing Green exterior. I have not committed to carpet color yet, but I am thinking a cocoa powder brown to highlight the biscuit seats and door skins. I have not committed to this, however. Biscuit carpet would give the interior a totally matching look, but I am partial to things like accent walls in houses that make rooms pop, so am considering a similar concept for the interior.

Just Dashes in CA still have my dash, estimated total turn around time is about 8 months, so I cannot recommend them to anyone. A long lead time, and a demand for payment before they even start the work leaves me feeling little sympathy for their business model. Oh well, at least they are outrageously expensive. Those guys should wear a mask and hold a gun when giving estimates. Sheesh. Well, stay tuned for further (snail like) progress reports.

Vance

Attachment: IMG_0356[2].jpg (Downloaded 57 times)

Last edited on 09-30-2023 08:06 pm by vnavaret

vnavaret
Member
 

Joined: 04-07-2022
Location: Oregon USA
Posts: 19
Status: 
Offline
Status update on "Rusty" the car.

I received my seat covers from Riverbourne classics, Allison answers the phones there and she is terrific. I also ordered some extra vinyl to cover the bare panels I got some time back. I was going to make my own, but found a set of die cut panels on eBay for less than $200, so decided to go that route.

I also got my dash back from Just Dashes. They had my dash for 8 months and I finally gave up and sent them an email (they do answer their emails, a small plus) demanding the return of my dash and a refund. I did not hear from them for two business days, then voila! An email saying the work was complete and the dash had been shipped. I don't believe they touched it until they received my request for a refund. The work is of good quality, but gruesomely overpriced, and the lead time is, well... ridiculous. Not recommended. Picture is attached. They painted and recovered the dash and instrument binnacle, and installed new silver piping on the binnacle.

The body is getting shipped off on Monday for paint. I have changed my mind on the color, too many LBCs get either British Racing Green or red. So I am going with Triumph Delft Blue. Call me crazy.

I have started pressing the bushings out of the suspension, and am tearing down the front chassis assembly. Bought some cheap spring compressors from Harbor Freight, and KYB front and rear shocks. I am thinking that the front assembly will be powder coated, but have not committed to that yet. That's it for now.

Vance

Attachment: Just Dashes.jpg (Downloaded 44 times)

Last edited on 11-03-2023 04:28 am by vnavaret

vnavaret
Member
 

Joined: 04-07-2022
Location: Oregon USA
Posts: 19
Status: 
Offline
Just an update of recent work.

I have completed the tear down of the front suspension, and disassembled the hubs. I am planning on new wheel bearings and seals.

I ended up pressing the centers out of all the bushings. The metal inserts and the shells are all vulcanized together, which means that you cannot just press out the rubber (upper control arms are an exception). This left rubber sticking to the inside of the shells. From there I used a hacksaw to cut the shell from the inside, then a hammer and a drift to drive out the shells. Pretty crude, but it got the job done.

I have stripped the front calipers, but the pistons seem to be rusted into place despite the rubber dust seals being intact. This is pretty common if the brake fluid does not get changed as it is hygroscopic and absorbs water. From there the water rusts everything from the inside out. After the brakes get rebuilt, DOT5 fluid will be used as it does not absorb water and rust things. Plus, it does not damage paint if things leak.

Many people claim that seals fail when DOT5 is used, but I have used it on my last 3 restorations without a problem. I suspect that people convert an existing system to DOT5 and their old seals give up the ghost, so they blame the fluid.

I will probably need to replace the pistons (when I manage to get them out) as they are likely to be pitted, but we shall see.

Oh yeah, the car is off for paint. I had to delay painting as when I refitted the bonnet the panel gaps were horiffic. The PO had sectioned the nose, and was not watching the dimension between the outer fenders. He got it about  1/2" too wide, so he used filler to build up the inner fender lips to get the panel gaps reasonable. Arrgh! So I ended up slicing out a ribbon of steel from the left inner fender, then used ratcheting straps to pull the outer fenders closer together. I then welded the inner fender to lock the outer fender in place. The panel gaps are now fixed. Anyway, that took me a couple of weekends of fiddling, so paint got delayed a bit.

Stay tuned for more news.

Vance


Last edited on 11-28-2023 02:00 am by vnavaret

vnavaret
Member
 

Joined: 04-07-2022
Location: Oregon USA
Posts: 19
Status: 
Offline
Latest news on Rusty the car...

I decided to toss my old brake calipers as I could not get the pistons out. Compressed air popped one out, but he rest, well, not so much. I asked a buddy what he does for this, and he welds a bolt to the piston and uses a slide hammer. I felt that if I was that desperate, the bores would be pitted so I tossed the old calipers and bought new ones for $90 each. They are the same calipers that the early Spitfires use, so they are readily available stateside. The rear slave cylinders appear to be the same ones that the TR7 4 speed and the TR8 use, so these are not an issue either.

I got some photos back from the body shop, and the car has had all the dents removed and is now in primer. So progress is being made.

In the meantime I have rebuilt the heater (removed a wasp nest, bead blasted, painted with new gaskets), torn down the rear axle, painted the brake drums, powder coated the bumpers, and acquired a bunch more parts. I even got a spare engine so I can replace a cracked cam gallery that the PO had patched with silicone (it didn't work, BTW)

The trailing arms have been cleaned and painted, and I got the last bushings in the rear axle removed. They were the worst to get out - argh.

A tip of the hat to Bruce Madden, who has supplied me with some difficult to find parts for very reasonable prices.

Stay tuned for more news...

Vance

Attachment: IMG_6052.jpg (Downloaded 15 times)

redracer
Member
 

Joined: 09-10-2012
Location: BROOKHAVEN, Georgia USA
Posts: 616
Status: 
Offline
Glad to hear you're making progress on your car--hopefully you'll have it ready for spring?
I made a puller for the caliper pistons(looked all over for one but no one has one??). You need to pull the 2 halves apart(DON'T LOSE THE FLAT WASHER THAT GOES BETWEEN THE 2 WHERE THE BRAKE FLUID GOES), and make some type of a puller with small jaws 90 degrees to the shafts.
Anyway, you've already found suitable replacements, but I probably have around 20 sets, so it was a good addition to the tool collection!



UltraBB 1.172 Copyright © 2007-2011 Data 1 Systems