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| 1973 Jensen Healey Vin#11602 | Rating: 
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| Posted: 02-18-2017 01:38 pm |
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21st Post |
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atgparker Member 
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Bad day yesterday with all the rain hydroplaned and spun the car and bent the axle shaft. Does anyone have one for sale? I will need a drivers side front quarter panel, head light bezel and a windshield as well if British Masters doesn't pan out? Attachment: WP_20170526_007.jpg (Downloaded 112 times) Last edited on 05-27-2017 04:11 am by atgparker |
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| Posted: 02-18-2017 05:25 pm |
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22nd Post |
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redracer Member
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Assume you mean one of the half shafts in the rear? Yes, I have plenty of very good used ones, but I am on the other side of the U.S., so there is likely someone in CA who has one. "But that wasn't it. Upon further investigation at 74,600 the distributor cap had enough oil in it that the rotor could re-wet its self with each rotation. How the car would actually run with so much oil in the distributor cap was beyond me at this point! So dissassembly started last night to find that the shaft has no actaul seal and only a screw groove slinger thread in the OD is provided to keep the oil from migrating into the area where the fly weights, pertronix pickup and rotor exist in the housing. Because it is horizontal, the oil ingress once it starts has to get about a 1/2 deep before the oil can drain from the unit." Your right in that the earlier distributors did NOT have an oil seal on the shaft-into-the-housing, just below the weights like the later 25 & 45 distributors.(most of the cars they went into had the dist. mounted vertically, so oil getting into it was unlikely). On the ones that did not have the seal, I knocked the upper steel bushing down farther to accommodate a seal(SKF #4702, 12X12X5mm HMS4 R).
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| Posted: 02-20-2017 07:17 am |
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23rd Post |
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answerman Member
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I've got a full rear axle/differential assembly sitting in storage: like Bruce said you can probably find someone closer (I'm in Wisconsin, I think I've sent you parts before) but if you have no luck anywhere else, mine's available.
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| Posted: 05-26-2017 04:05 am |
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24th Post |
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atgparker Member
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McMaster-Carr parts for Pertronix FlameThrower distributor shaft improvements: Thrust bearing is: 5909K31 O-Ring Supported U-Cup is: 9505K17 Mcmaster-Carr Parts for Door Hinge Rework: Door Hinge Pin Replacement: Punch Pin Blank Ø 5/16 x 2-1/2 long: 93770A315 #4 Phillips with 3/8 drive: 51395A46 The upper portion of the OEM pin is knurled under the head to fix it in the outer portion of the hinge brackets which keep it rotating in the inner bush section if its not rusted together. Both of the upper pins in my car are sheared off resulting in the doors dropping when they are opened. Clutch Cable Fix, McMaster-Carr Part Number: 35215T12 Clutch cable fix forever clevis gets rid of the leaded ball at the pedal end of things. I drilled out the pedal and put a brass bush in the oversized hole for the clevis pin to rotate in. It is the best clutch improvement you will ever make to the OEM cable. Last edited on 05-30-2017 01:07 pm by atgparker |
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| Posted: 05-27-2017 03:17 am |
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25th Post |
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atgparker Member
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This Sway bar arrangement gets the bushings and washers parallel with the OEM tab on the lower suspension arm. The thing with an anti-sway bar is you need to couple it to the suspension and body as best as can be managed to minimise compliance. This approach seemed like the anti-sway bar was made to go over the top of the thrust rod and at the angle that I have with the spacer made to be so the angles are perfect for the washer stack and bolt to transmit the suspension movement to the bar as cleanly as possible. As they are passive the better the coupling the more anti-roll you will get for the foot-pounds of twist that you can put into the bar under hard cornering. Notice the welded in plate on the frame and cool washer face headed hex bolts. This puts a bit more smoosh on the bushing to couple the bar to the chassis better than the weird U-bolts were capable of. Attachment: WP_20170526_002.jpg (Downloaded 116 times) Last edited on 05-27-2017 03:29 am by atgparker |
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| Posted: 05-27-2017 01:53 pm |
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26th Post |
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Brett Gibson JH5 20497 Member
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9509K17 o-ring support cup not coming up at Mc M.
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| Posted: 06-19-2017 07:53 pm |
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27th Post |
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atgparker Member
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Picture of my method for spreading the inner fender panel out to match the Mk1 fender I aquired from Brithish Masters over the week end. Attachment: WP_20170617_001.jpg (Downloaded 85 times) Last edited on 06-19-2017 07:54 pm by atgparker |
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| Posted: 11-18-2017 07:37 am |
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28th Post |
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atgparker Member
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I got the bonnet and front fender repainted back in July 2017. A lot of block sanding priming and boom the rest of the car is really looking quite poor compared with this effort. Attachment: WP_20170704_001.jpg (Downloaded 70 times)
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| Posted: 11-26-2017 03:35 pm |
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29th Post |
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atgparker Member
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Replaced motor mounts with Land Rover D-90/Discovery 1 units. Twice the diameter of the OEM and about the same thickness. The aluminum hole saw cutouts are washers to raise the header off the steering column. I use the same number on both sides to keep the engine level and the Webber's float bowls from spilling more then is already going on when hard cornering. This stack height seem to be nicely straight when the elastomeric stack of the mount is observed. The exhaust side mount is slightly more vertical on the header side of the motor and takes more of a compressive load under acceleration. But the intake side is more horizontal and the shock absorber on the fire wall is undergoing extension with the rebound dampening applied to resist the movement. It all gets rather nasty when these mounts become separated were the vulcanized rubber is peeled away from the steel disk/s. Had to drive to El Segundo for two days of work related training the week after the SOLO event only to realize that my cube shifter on the w58 was jammed against the tranny tunnel passenger side opening and getting the gear box into 5 gear was almost impossible. That's when the aha moment was realize as to what had happened! This made for an interesting drive home. Attachment: WP_20171115_20_18_29_Pro.jpg (Downloaded 54 times) Last edited on 11-26-2017 04:55 pm by atgparker |
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| Posted: 11-26-2017 03:47 pm |
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30th Post |
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atgparker Member
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When the motor mounts failed the fire wall got fatigued and cracked badly. So I made up this reinforcement from some 1/8 inch thick steel plate. I used J & B weld to fix it to the ground and cleaned fire wall surface. Added a spacer to get the damper bracket alignment perfectly straight with the motor bracket. I replaced the damper with an MTB shock (CHASER brand <$50 on eBay, has adjustable rebound needle). I merely just removed the 750 lb/in spring and bolted it in. The bushing width is perfect but the aluminum Allen screws were replaced with steel nuts and bolts that are either M8 or 5/16. 07 Dec 2017, I have been experimenting and put the OEM shock back on for a few days with the big motor mounts. When the temperature is just right I get all kinds clutch chatter on engagement with the "shot" OEM damper. This morning drove the car again with the Chaser MTB shock absorber with the rebound damping set to full hard and the clutch chatter is gone! Attachment: WP_20171115_20_19_33_Pro.jpg (Downloaded 54 times) Last edited on 12-07-2017 07:54 pm by atgparker |
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| Posted: 11-26-2017 04:33 pm |
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31st Post |
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atgparker Member
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Three weeks ago my two year old Hardi fuel pump quit. Looks like the single click was due to fuel ingress into the PCBA and the electronics fried. Note the fuzzies on the solder joints and the inside of the blue plastic cap was covered with evaporated fuel residue. These are not vented like the SU's are! Attachment: WP_20171122_17_22_49_Pro.jpg (Downloaded 54 times)
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| Posted: 11-26-2017 04:36 pm |
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32nd Post |
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atgparker Member
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SU seems to be really nice and a lot better designed than the unvented Hardi Attachment: WP_20171115_20_16_26_Pro.jpg (Downloaded 54 times)
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| Posted: 11-26-2017 04:40 pm |
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33rd Post |
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atgparker Member
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SCCA-Solo event at Fontana just this last October. Thrashed the OEM motor mounts and ruptured the firewall shock mount all before the ruddy fuel pump quit three weeks ago. The fun never ends!... Attachment: WP_20171021_13_56_37_Pro.jpg (Downloaded 54 times) Last edited on 11-26-2017 04:40 pm by atgparker |
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| Posted: 11-26-2017 04:52 pm |
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34th Post |
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redracer Member
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Would strongly recommend putting a fuel filter BEFORE the pump; I've seen rust particles break the plastic flapper valves inside the SU pump.
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| Posted: 11-26-2017 05:26 pm |
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35th Post |
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atgparker Member
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Thank you for the heads up on this point. I concur with your assessment. I have a strainer on my fuel pick up tube that is in the tank. So only small particles of rust and crap can get to the pump which it should be able to process. As I drive this car daily to work the OEM tank is keeping rust free even though it was an orange mess when I first got this car over four years ago. As you know the diaphragm pump is good for pulling a decent head pressure which is easily far more than the height of the SU sitting on the fender to the tanks bottom. I had one of those glass filters which ended up leaking and pulling air as the O-rings relaxed and couldn't figure out why the car was leaning out all the time until I observed the ruddy bubbles. Until the Hardi and now the SU I had a lot of trouble with other pump styles like gear-rotors being able to pull the fuel when it was below the pumps height i.e. below half full. The car ran notably different as my commute was 29 miles along Santiago Canyon here in Orange County, CA so it was an excellent test bed drive each day. Filtering the input side is going to hurt the pumps efficiency but I fully concur with the idea for a car that is rarely driven in keeping the crap out of the pump. Just be prepared to have additional G12 Fram filters on hand!.. As for now this brand new SU is killing it and the car has never run this well. Setting the timing to 14 degrees has also helped with removing an off idle stumble which may have been part of the Hardi going south and not feeding the DCOE Weber's correctly. It is so much better that I'm reconsidering replacing my 17 lb steel flywheel with my 12 lb aluminum one!
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| Posted: 11-27-2017 08:12 pm |
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36th Post |
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answerman Member
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I assume you got your axle shaft issue straightened out? (no pun intended) How did those motor mounts work out for you? I bought the same set about a year and a half ago and haven't gotten around to putting them in yet: planning on doing it this winter when I install my new Gates Racing blue timing belt. I got the mounts because they seemed to be just a bit thinner than the OEM mounts. I have always had issues with shimming the mounts so the steering shaft clears the Delta 4 into 1 header (I've got it working, but I can't install the timing belt cover since it hits the bonnet on acceleration). Hoping the new engine mounts will give me just a bit more "adjustment latitude". Last edited on 11-27-2017 08:12 pm by answerman |
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| Posted: 11-28-2017 12:07 pm |
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37th Post |
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Rick in Miami Member
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Great information and tips in this thread. Are you running DCOE 40s or 45s? What jetting are you using? Thanks ~ Rick
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