| ||||
| ||||
| Moderated by: Greg Fletcher | Page: 1 2 3 4 5 6   |
|
||||||||
| New Aluminum Tanks - Anyone Interested? | Rating: 
|
| Author | Post |
|---|
| Posted: 07-05-2005 05:11 pm |
|
1st Post |
|
Ron Earp Member 
|
This steel stock tank in the JH is a nightmare. It is heavy, very heavy, and of course for most of us it is rusted heavily as well. I sealed mine, put baffles in it, and created two feeds for my pump setup. Outcome is fine, that is, it works. However, I'm still not happy with it because of weight and the location of the weight, up high. I'm thinking about having the tank fabricated in aluminum with the same outside dimensions so that it will plug in as a replacement. I might just do a one off, or, if there is interest I'll see about having a bunch of them made. I would suspect they'll cost around $300 each, or thereabouts, to be made from good 2mm or 3mm ally panel with holes and fittings. If anyone is interested then post here so I can gauge demand and see if it is worth the hassle. Thanks much, Ron
|
|||||||||
| ||||||||||
| Posted: 07-06-2005 03:35 am |
|
2nd Post |
|
Ron Earp Member
|
If you know anything, let me know, that would be great. But, the tank is simple (if you want to follow OEM) and easily made. Frankly, I'd change the side placement of the pickup/float, but to make it fit for the average JH'er it'd be best not to have to re-arrange components. It'd be easier to use the newer style sprial floats that are straight up and down and through the top - they work better and are more accurate, but that would be additional parts that I'm not interested in sourcing and sorting out for folks. With my steel one I cut it apart and baffles were welded in, right and left sides, along with two 5/16" nipples, right and left, at the bottom of the tank near the baffles. I don't use a float since I don't need a fuel gauge, but for street cars people would want to use their fuel gauge floats. R
|
|||||||||
| ||||||||||
| Posted: 07-06-2005 04:20 am |
|
3rd Post |
|
Mark Rosenbaum Member 
|
Other than the quality issue (steel-to-stainless welds?) with the stainless tanks Delta once offered, I don't know of any problems with aftermarket tanks, though nowadays there may be an assortment of federal regulations and/or restrictions involved in manufacturing them. The baffles, dual nipples, and top-loading fuel sender are all good ideas that improve on the original design. There's room in the trunk to make the tank lower and wider both left-right and front-rear, to lower the center of gravity somewhat. I seem to recall that some Brit car used the top of the fuel tank as the floor of the trunk, which probably isn't all that wise, but does get the mass of the fuel down pretty low. Or you could put the spare tire inside the trunk, and the tank below the trunk floor.... Provision for a fuel gauge sender would be essential for street use, but unless you can state that some specific sender fits the tank and is compatible with the stock Smiths fuel gauge, a lot of potential customers would likely lose interest. This doesn't mean you would have to provide the item yourself, rather it could be mentioned on a list of things needed to adapt the tank to a JH. All in all, an interesting project. And if it it doesn't work out, you might be able to get an article that Greg Fletcher could use in the magazine....
|
|||||||||
| ||||||||||
| Posted: 07-06-2005 02:23 pm |
|
4th Post |
|
Sander Member 
|
What about creating something like the tank used in the GT?
|
|||||||||
| ||||||||||
| Posted: 07-06-2005 11:27 pm |
|
5th Post |
|
Ron Earp Member
|
Don't know what that looks like, but I assume it is slung under the trunk. I would normally put a fuel cell under the truck or through it, but I have panhard rod bracing and bars that prevent me from accomplishing this - thus I am using the stock tank location. One thing nice about the stock location is that it is far forward of most tanks, and with 60lbs of fuel plus the 25-30 lb tank it is a lot of weight better there than hanging off the rear of the car. On the other hand, it is up high and thus raises the roll center - not desirable. Biggest thing to be is to ditch that tank weight, it is overbuilt and just too heavy. An ally tank will perform every bit as well and be some 60% lighter. Ron
|
|||||||||
| ||||||||||
| Posted: 07-07-2005 12:56 pm |
|
6th Post |
|
Ron Earp Member
|
themagicalswitch, or whomever you might be, it is doubtful that there will be enough interest to make a run of these things. More than likely I'll just make one for myself for use as there are only a couple of people who have expressed interest. Plus, these sorts of things always seem to fall apart at the end when it comes time for money to actually travel - $300 seems okay to talk about but when people start to compare it to the worth of the car, well, it seems high.
|
|||||||||
| ||||||||||
| Posted: 07-07-2005 07:23 pm |
|
7th Post |
|
themagicalswitch Member 
|
Well I don't need one per say, but I'd like to save some weight on this restoration. I like the idea in other words. I'm surprised money would be such an issue, I think that is a reasonable price. Considering the cost of dellortos is $2200 and a used bonnet is several hundred at best. In my spare time I build and tune Ducati motorbikes. A light weight tank is about $1400 and saves around 5 lbs. Not to mention a carbon, or magnesium wheel set. That is several thousand. Although on a motorbike you really feel that weight reduction. Last edited on 07-07-2005 07:24 pm by themagicalswitch |
|||||||||
| ||||||||||
| Posted: 07-12-2005 11:04 am |
|
8th Post |
|
Harkes Member 
|
Hi Ron, just back from a short holiday. as you may have read i'm about to restore my tank as it leaks and is pretty rusted. A stainless steel tank from Delta was in my opinion the way to go, but Delta don't sell them nomore cause of problems with them. So yes i'm definitely interested and 300 $ sounds ok to me if i can drop it in as an exact replacement. As i live in the Netherlands, is that ok for you in terms of shipping (which costs are then of course mine)? let me know and thanks erik harkes
|
|||||||||
| ||||||||||
| Posted: 07-13-2005 08:22 pm |
|
9th Post |
|
Panini Member 
|
Had a JH, and my son and I just got another. Would be interested if it would be a drop in replacement. Not all that concerned about weight since when I get in the car, dinamics HAVE to change. I'm more interested in the rust factor. I'm not sure you're correct in the interest. Do most owners regularly cruise the boards? If you were to produce, install, and be sucessful;, there might be a way to attain the mailing list from JHPS. or article as Mark states. J&N Last edited on 07-13-2005 08:23 pm by Panini |
|||||||||
| ||||||||||
| Posted: 07-25-2005 10:38 pm |
|
10th Post |
|
Ron Earp Member
|
I am going to check with my welder/fabricator next Monday when I drop the JH off for a side exit NASCAR style exhaust. Don't like NASCAR, it is just I've used side exits on a lot of my performance cars and you can't beat the ease of removal, light weight, and power gains with the short length. On the downside they are loud, but that is okay on a race car. If Robert thinks he can do them for $200-$350 then I'll check back here and see how many. They would have the same outside dimensions, same hole in the side for sender/output, and hole in the top for gas. Mine will have baffles in it and two pickups at the bottom on the front, like I did with my steel tank. Ron
|
|||||||||
| ||||||||||
| Posted: 07-26-2005 06:59 am |
|
11th Post |
|
Harkes Member
|
Hi Ron, if i may i would suggest to have all of them made with baffles as i am planning to use my jh on a track every now and then too (not for races ..). i'm very excited and i hope it will work out. Good luck with your fine race car. God i wish i was ready. My engine is at the dyno as we speak so soon i have the results. cheers erik
|
|||||||||
| ||||||||||
| Posted: 07-26-2005 01:04 pm |
|
12th Post |
|
Ron Earp Member
|
The baffles will cause problems for those with stock equipment and want to keep that mess. The stock tank had a float, which is going to foul on the baffles, and a pickup of some design that I don't know (mine was rusted off). I assume the pickup came in the side and went toward the middle of the tank at an angle. Also, on the baffled tanks I plan to have them packed with Fuel Safe foam which is a fire safety thing - it would preculde using senders and stock pickups. If you're simply autocrossing I'm sure the stock tank will do okay, Judson will know. If it does starve you could band aid it with a "swirl pot". Have the pump pull fuel through a small vessel thus creating a supply reservior to supply the pump at all times. I'll post a picture of this setup as I am using this as well in addition to the two pickups and baffles to make sure we don't starve in long corners. R
|
|||||||||
| ||||||||||
| Posted: 07-26-2005 01:31 pm |
|
13th Post |
|
Harkes Member
|
the "swirl pot" sounds like a great solution! Thanks by the way for taking the effort with regards to the aluminum fuel tanks!! I truly hope your guy is willing to make them. cheers, Erik
|
|||||||||
| ||||||||||
| Posted: 07-28-2005 01:02 pm |
|
14th Post |
|
Ron Earp Member
|
Just to keep you updated - I did not see Robert this week since the JH got delayed with the driveshaft making, but I will see him next Wednesday and get some rough ideas of feasibility. Once I get my car back from the driveshaft joint I'll take picture of my fuel system and post so you can see a easy way to make a swirl pot without spending a fortune. Ron
|
|||||||||
| ||||||||||
| Posted: 07-29-2005 02:50 pm |
|
15th Post |
|
Dan Collier Member 
|
RCI has a complete line of strong, lightweight aluminum fuel cells ranging in size from 1 to 20 gallons. Each fuel cell features fully welded, all-aluminum construction and a flush mount aircraft-type fill lid. They all include internal foam baffling, and several models are available with a fuel sending unit. The cells have two -10 AN male fuel pickups located in the bottom of the cell and a single -8 AN fitting for use as a vent or fuel return. In addition, these cells are available in your choice of red, blue, or black powdercoat and natural aluminum. http://store.wpsracing.com/rcialfuce.html Take a look at some of these RCI fuel tanks.  Dan Collier JH74 14381 2.2L Jensen-Healey Preservation Photo Gallery
|
|||||||||
| ||||||||||
| Posted: 08-10-2005 11:22 am |
|
16th Post |
|
Ron Earp Member
|
Well, I don't think this thing is going to work out. I think the prices would just be too high for the average JHer - no offense, to anyone, I'm in that boat too! I'm getting estimates in the high $300 range and that just seems a little much. I'd be willing to pay it for a one off for a racing tank, but that might not make sense for everyone else. I've got another guy I'm going to try next week and see what he estimates. I'll be back! Oh Dan, good post. RCI's tanks are sold through JEG's as a JEG's brand and are good cells. I have the second one down on the page that I was planning to use in the Jensen, but it just didn't fit too well as I've mentioned in the upper part of the thread. The JH actually has a great tank location after I kept thinking about it - far inboard, right over the axle. Only thing is weight is high, but I'd rather have it there than hanging out the back where it will get hit. For those that don't want a OEM tank I'd do a RCI or JEG's tank like above, they are good - just have to fab your own place to put them and go from there. R Last edited on 08-10-2005 11:24 am by Ron Earp |
|||||||||
| ||||||||||
| Posted: 08-11-2005 02:46 am |
|
17th Post |
|
Harkes Member
|
Ron, if the other guy can't do it cheaper than i would still be interested for a aluminium fuel tank in the high 300 dollar range. The way i figure: restoring my very rusted tank costs me at least 120 euro in just POR 15 paint and POR 15 tank sealer and the amount of work i have not even calculated. (120 euro is about 160 dollar). Also i still won't be sure after treatment with the por 15 stuff it will be sealed 100%. So if it is ok with you and if your guy can do it then please do 1 for me please best regards erik
|
|||||||||
| ||||||||||
| Posted: 08-26-2005 02:18 am |
|
18th Post |
|
jensen4u Member
|
I am going to check in to a few options myself. I have my tank our and it needs replacing. I called a renu company and it will be around $350 plus shipping and I just do not feel good about the dyi. So I am going to call fuel cell manufacturers to see if they can produce one that fits in the oem location. I can see spending $400 for my old tank when I could have something new say in aluminum or ss.
|
|||||||||
| ||||||||||
| Posted: 08-26-2005 08:05 am |
|
19th Post |
|
Harkes Member
|
i have had contact with http://www.jaguarbyjorge.com based in Chula Vista CA. He builds new original OEM design fuel tanks (baffled) for Jaguars & Triumhs. He sells the new manufactured triump fuel tanks for around $200 and it looks almost similar to the JH fuel tank. I have asked him if he would be willing to do a run of JH fuel tanks and he replied luck woud have it that a customer of his just brought in his old JH fuel tank. As we speak he is tooling it and he said he would have one built by the end of this month or beginning of Sep! He could then say more about how much he would want for the tank. Jorge also can manufacture chrome bumpers or fenders etc etc. Have a look at the TR 3 fuel tank: http://www.jaguarbyjorge.com/TR36.htm As soon as i hear from him i'll post a new message on the board with full details. best regards erik harkes
|
|||||||||
| ||||||||||
| Posted: 08-26-2005 05:40 pm |
|
20th Post |
|
jensen4u Member
|
Wonder if he would make some out of aluminum or stainless? I just can't see $400 for my old tank back. There has got to be a better solution.
|
|||||||||
| ||||||||||
| Current time is 12:59 am | Page: 1 2 3 4 5 6 |
| > Jensen Healey & Jensen GT Tech > Carburetors > New Aluminum Tanks - Anyone Interested? | Top |
