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 Posted: 04-25-2011 12:43 am
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chiromaster
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When I got my JH it had Weber 45's on it. It had been sitting for many years. When I tried to start it gas poured out of the rear carb onto the starter. I tore them down, acleand them out and replaced gaskets etc with a rebuild kit.

I just returned from the driveway where I tried to start my car and...just like ground hog day gas came pouring out of the carb all over my starter. Checking priror posts on the subject matter, it sounds like I may need to adjust the float level.

Is this the only thing it could be? What else would I check? I have a Facet fuel pump, could the pressure be too high?

Thanks

Nels

Last edited on 04-25-2011 01:24 am by chiromaster

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 Posted: 04-25-2011 09:09 am
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subwoofer
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Probably a sunk float. Did you check them for leaks (as you should) when you rebuilt the carbs?

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Joachim

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 Posted: 04-25-2011 03:48 pm
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chiromaster
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I did check the floats for leaks. They are fine. When I did the rebuild, I did one carb at a time being careful to put them back exacaly as they were. After reading about float levels I thought I should compare the two side by side. So I took the top covers off and compared...one float was upside down.

Last edited on 04-25-2011 03:48 pm by chiromaster

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 Posted: 04-25-2011 04:35 pm
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subwoofer
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That would explain it all, then. :-) No part of the float touched the needle valve, right?

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Joachim

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 Posted: 04-25-2011 07:05 pm
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chiromaster
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Not even close. Now the story of this car is clearer. The people who sold it to my friend messed around with the carbs for one reason or another, got the float in upside down, got frustrated with the whole thing and sold the car.

My friend bought it and never started it; he was going to restore it. It sat around for about 10 years then he gave it to me. Fortunately for me I found this board and there are people who know about the JH and are helpful. Thanks.

I did crank over the engine but it didn't fire. So on to ignition troubleshooting.

 

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 Posted: 04-25-2011 07:32 pm
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Brett Gibson JH5 20497
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Nels, just a tip with the JH electric's, make sure you have good grounds I've seen alot of issue's that were caused by that.

Brett

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 Posted: 04-25-2011 08:03 pm
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subwoofer
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Since you are in the process of recommisioning the car, do yourself the favour and change the cam belt while you are at it! If it snaps, you are looking at massive costs. A rebuild could easily end in the $3-5k range in parts alone if the wrong parts are done in, ref my teardown thread in Projects.

Check cam and static ignition timing first. Make sure the plug wires run to the correct cylinders. The + feed on the coil runs through multiple plugs, it comes through the rev counter, so it is quite possible that there is no voltage on the coil. For testing purposes, you could run the + on the coil straight from the battery. Also check the fuse box, it is a Lucas...

For peace of mind I would do the following: Get a good 12V coil and take out the resistor (or resistive wire). A Pertronix will not hurt either.

Since that car has been standing for 10 years, what is the state of the cooling system? If good coolant was used it should be OK, but check it!

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Joachim

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 Posted: 04-25-2011 08:54 pm
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chiromaster
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Just back from the driveway…

Cam belt done with new tensioner.

Fuse box checked

Cooling system flushed and filled.

Took out multimeter to check some voltages. The wire going into the resistor block had 8v, the + of the coil had 4. I unplugged the wire going into the resistor block it has 13v. Then I touched the resistor block it was very hot after about 3 min that I was testing.

 

Other back ground on my ignition. It came non running and has a delco coil, an Allison electronic ignition unit. I purchased an MSD 6a. It is sitting in a box until I know weather the Allison unit is functional.

 

I will go and inspect the grounds.

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 Posted: 04-25-2011 09:06 pm
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subwoofer
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chiromaster wrote:
Took out multimeter to check some voltages. The wire going into the resistor block had 8v, the + of the coil had 4. I unplugged the wire going into the resistor block it has 13v. Then I touched the resistor block it was very hot after about 3 min that I was testing.

It is not going to produce a spark with 4V at the coil, this is almost for sure. You have contact resistance issues somewhere, so feeding the resistor directly from the battery should eliminate those problems - just to verify the soundness of the rest of the ignition system. The resistor is big for a reason, it should get hot when working. Have you tried turning the engine slightly over TDC? That should open the circuit, then you should have 12-13V at coil +.

A timing gun will possibly tell you if you have spark at all, it is current triggered, not voltage triggered.

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Joachim

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 Posted: 04-25-2011 09:08 pm
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subwoofer
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Another issue I have had: The resistor bypass circuit on my starter doesn't work anymore, so last year it was incredibly hard to start. This year, I run with a Pertronix, a 12V coil and no resistor, so that problem is gone.

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Joachim

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