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Clutch Lever Release  Rating:  Rating
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 Posted: 08-10-2007 02:26 am
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Steve Jarvis
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I've just finished installing a new clutch cable and got down to the last step of connecting to the clutch lever. The cable seemed to be too short and while trying to adjust the tension, the lever slipped off the pivot point. After some checking and fiddling around the lever seems to slide into a slot and be positioned correctly on the release bearing and centered in the slot. It is the only place it appears to fit correctly and it fit quite easily. The shop manual has no pictures and I'm working from the Delta catalogue picture.

In this position the lever is almost at the back of the slot with the bearing touching the pressure plate. The only way to get the nuts on the clutch cable screw is to compress the lever with a clamp. The shop manual indicates that the nut should be hand tightened and then backed off a bit. This is not possible with the setup as is. Is this typical or do I still have a problem?

My experience with other cars is that the release bearing should not ride on the pressure plate except when the clutch pedal is pushed. Is this correct with a Jensen?

I checked with Delta and the clutch cable is the proper length, the pedal end is seated properly and so is the nylon stop that connects the other end of the cable to the housing. The only other things I can think off are: 1) that the pivot ball was not installed correctly previously, i.e. not screwed in properly which would change the geometry of the lever forcing it back or 2) the lever is still not in the right spot for the pivot. Do either of these options make sense?

Any other suggestions most welcome.

Steve

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 Posted: 08-10-2007 07:34 pm
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Jim Sohl
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The ideas do make sense.  However, that does not necessarily make them true.  If the cable is indeed correct, then the problem is at one end or the other.  Are you really, really sure that the pedal box end is properly engaged?  If so, then your ideas are likely to obtain.  Proof may require taking the transmission and adaptor housing ('bell' housing, they do ring) and have a look.  Your belief that a small gap should be present is also correct.
Goof luck,
Jim

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 Posted: 08-11-2007 05:00 pm
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Greg Fletcher
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The part about the cable seeming too short is a bit of a mystery in itself. I'm guesing your clutch fork is out of position. What about the cable mount bracket itself- is that in the right spot?

On all the ones I've seen, the cable is always on the long side. I always curse that they make them too long since it takes longer to adjust down. I have about 2 inches of threaded cable sticking out at the clutch fork end on my JH and that's what I've seen on other JHs.

The throw out bearing will never ride on the pressure plate at rest, only the clutch pedal will engage it. With the return spring removed, you should never need to compress anything to attach the cable.

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 Posted: 08-12-2007 10:37 pm
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Steve Jarvis
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After a bunch of checking and adjusting here's where I am:
  • The end at the clutch pedal is engaged properly and seated in as far as it will go.
  • I checked the clutch lever and it is on the pivot point. A bit of challenge to accomplish, but a small mirror, a coat hanger and a hot glue gun and I was able to see the other end of the lever. And yes it is possible to reinstall without pulling the transmission and bell housing.
  • The end  near the transmission is seated up to the nylon lip.
  • The only thing left is that the cable is too short. The measurement from the edge of the housing to the end of the threaded rod is 6 3/8".
  • After lengthening the threaded rod so that it fit per instructions in the shop manual, the measurement is 7". This has slightly less than 1/8" thread after the locking nut.
Next step is to go for a drive when the rain stops and see if the clutch disengages properly.


Completed the drive and clutch works much better. The disengage point is about 1/3 of the way to the floor. The original issue was the clutch was dragging even though the pedal was completely depressed and no adjustment in the cable lever.

Appears the only two potential issues are 1) cable is too short or 2) the pivot point is not properly seated. Does anyone have a measurement from the face of the bell housing to the second lock nut?


Steve

Last edited on 08-16-2007 12:38 am by Steve Jarvis

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 Posted: 08-21-2007 07:21 pm
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pbahr
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Steve,

Not sure what dimension you are looking for "face of the bell housing to the second lock nut?"

As Greg tells it, there are only two spots where things can go wrong.  You seem to recigonize these as well.

There might also be a problem where the Cable is attached to the Clutch Pedal, or where that end of the Cable Shield is anchored.

Also, when the Lever is positioned to just ready to press the Clutch fingers, the Lever is NOT centered in the rectangular Bellhousing opening - it is towards one end of it - see 2. below.

When properly installed:

  1. The Lever (rounded side, bottom of the "U") is about 1 1/8 inch from the inside of the rectangular hole in the Bellhousing.
  2. You should have about 1 1/2 inches of thread left on the Cable end, with a stack-up underneath it of two nuts, one thin washer and the Nylon Pad.
If you need any pix of this, I have a setup on the bench.  Just ask via a direct email.

Pete Bahr

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 Posted: 08-24-2007 10:37 pm
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Steve Jarvis
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Thanks for all the suggestions. I’ve attached a quick picture with some text to indicate lengths. Trust the following will clarify some of my comments:

  • The lever is towards the rear of the slot (i.e. transmission end) as per your description as you can see in the picture. When I indicated centred I meant between the longer sides and that the lever appeared to be seated properly on the pivot point.
  • The cable is seated properly at the pedal end and also at the nylon guide end.
  • I had to cut the threaded rod and add about an inch to get enough thread through the lever, rubber pad and nylon component.
  • As I mentioned the only other item that could cause this is that the pivot ball in the bell housing that the clutch lever rides on is not seated properly and is too far towards the motor. Appears correct when viewed with a mirror. 
 
There is certainly not enough threaded rod to achieve 1 ½ inches past the clutch lever without the extension. Clutch does shift well now but shouldn't be this difficult. 

Attachment: Clutch Cable.JPG (Downloaded 64 times)

Last edited on 08-24-2007 10:37 pm by Steve Jarvis

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 Posted: 08-25-2007 04:23 am
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pbahr
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Hi Steve,

I sent you a PM with a lot of details, but bottom line is that I think someone switched Pivot - Release Lever on your Bellhousing.  They are different on the 4spd and 5 spd Tranny.  Key to this system working properly is that the Ball on this part is 4 inches from the open end of the Bellhousing as shown on the sketch.

I'll post another reply with a pix of the lever in the correct position, cause I have not figured out how to attach more than one pix.......

Pete Bahr

Attachment: Clutch Pivot Ball dimensions lite.jpg (Downloaded 219 times)

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 Posted: 08-25-2007 04:30 am
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pbahr
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OK Steve, here is the pix of the Lever properly positioned in the Bellhousing hole.  It should be towards the fromt of the hole so it matches the off-set in the Grommet - Lever Slot.  I did a lot of layout work on these parts during design of the new rubber Boot (Grommet - Lever Slot).

BTW, the Pivot - Release Lever part numbers are:

4spd - 91526

5spd - 97353

These must be of different lengths because one of the Bellhousings is much longer than the other.

Pete

Attachment: Clutch Cable end - YELODOG lite.jpg (Downloaded 75 times)

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 Posted: 08-25-2007 02:21 pm
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Steve Jarvis
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Peter, thanks for the postings. I tend to concur with the view there is something amiss with the pivot point. It just doesn't make any sense unless the previous owner replaced it or it has somehow dislodged. I'll definately use your diagram to understand where the problem is.

Given that it is summer here and top down driving is very limited the primary goal is getting out for a run. Hopefully the teardown will wait.

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 Posted: 08-25-2007 09:33 pm
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pbahr
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Hi Steve,
You should be able to see if the Clutch Pivot Ball rod where it mounts to the Tranny end of the Bellhousing, and determine if it is seated.  Use a mirror on the end of a stick.  See pix of 4spd assy attached.  I guess it could not be seated, but also, that is a long shot, I think.


It is tough to measure the "4" dimension (actually 4  1/4") from Ball to open end of the Bellhousing,  because the Clutch assy is directly between the Ball and the end of the Bellhousing.

 
You also might be able to measure the length of the Clutch Pivot Ball rod.  For the 4spd rod it is 4  7/16"  from the end of the ball to the flat surface on the other end.  Maybe you could cut a stick to that length and somehow lay it next to the rod and compare.  Be careful, the rod seats in a machined recess in the Bellhousing, so don't measure to the casting.
 
Are you ABSOLUTLY CERTAIN that the two pins on the Lever are engaged in the slot in the Throwout Bearing??????
 
Bottom line is that there are only four possibilities:
  1. Wrong rod
  2. Pins on Lever not engaged on the Throwout bearing
  3. Pivot end of Lever not properly on the Ball
  4. Rod not seated
Good luck,
Pete

Attachment: Clutch Pivot Ball dimensions 002 lite.jpg (Downloaded 207 times)

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 Posted: 08-25-2007 10:25 pm
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Steve Jarvis
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Pete, thanks as that's the picture I've been wondering about. If I recall, the pivot lever that I saw with the mirror in my transmission was a smooth shaft and probably much longer. Also I don't believe it was hexagonal like the one in your picture. Leads me to believe that the previous owner's mechanic "fixed it" at some point.

Logical next step is to "unfix it" so to speak. I'll let you know how that goes.  

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 Posted: 08-25-2007 11:02 pm
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Jensen Healey
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If you need the stock part let me know.

Kurt

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 Posted: 08-27-2007 02:21 am
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malcolm
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Pete,

Has the new rubber grommet gone into production?

Regards

Malcolm

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 Posted: 08-27-2007 03:03 am
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pbahr
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Malcolm,

Funny you should ask, production released recently.   Delivery due to me on Sept 24 - if they keep to their schedule ;-)  I'm on travel Sept 1 - 19.

Send me your email in a PM, and I'll contact you when they arrive..

Pete

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 Posted: 10-30-2007 03:17 am
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pbahr
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Steve,

Did you get this thing sorted out yet??

Pete

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 Posted: 11-04-2007 11:33 pm
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Steve Jarvis
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Pete,

Not yet as I'm putting it away for the winter. I did take it for a spin around the block and encountered a significant clunk in the clutch area when I stopped at an intersection. Next thing I knew I had a fair amount of play in the pedal but the clutch still worked. Not sure if the spring at the pivot point finally connected (I thought I had it engaged properly) or some other nefarious issue has come to light. I subsequently adjusted the cable to take up the extra 3/8" of slack. Will send an update when I pull the motor/transmission.

Any news on the rubber boot replacement?

Steve

Last edited on 11-04-2007 11:34 pm by Steve Jarvis

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 Posted: 11-05-2007 12:59 am
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pbahr
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Steve,

That's a really strange problem, but I'm certain you'll find that it's a simple one, once you've got it sorted out.  Please keep the list advised.

Re: CLUTCH LEVER BOOT.  I got my first production run a few weeks ago, and they turned out really great.  Send an email to me at: PETEB01@COMCAST.NET, and I'll forward the information to you.

Thanks,

Pete Bahr (YELODOG)

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