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 Posted: 09-24-2019 03:30 pm
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noomg
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Dakota,

I don't know about you but the number one question I always got was "Is that an MG?", which is why my license plate is NOOMG.

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 Posted: 09-25-2019 02:30 pm
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Dakota123
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Actually, I got the "is that an MG" for literally the first time just the other day.  Usually it's just "what is that??"  and then I explain it's a Jensen Healey, the red-headed step-child to an Austin Healey and then they pretend to understand and then I tell them about the Lotus engine if it's a guy or the little British woman that first owned her if it's a woman (sexist? probably) and some understand but most don't and just say, "well it's very cute" (if it's a woman) or "cool" (if it's a guy). Or some variation thereof, lol

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 Posted: 09-26-2019 02:59 am
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Tim Murphy
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When asked "what's a Jensen Healey?" I asked if they have heard of the Austin Healey. Most say yes, so I explain that both cars were designed by Donald Healey, the Austin Healey was made by the Austin company, the Jensen Healey was made by the Jensen company. I also add that the Jensen Healey was made to replace the Austin Healey which could not meet the safety and emission standards coming into effect.

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 Posted: 09-29-2019 03:09 pm
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noomg
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Tim,

I usually don't get that far before eyes glaze over or they just walk away. I do like driving a car that no one knows what it is. In that regard, I always wanted to get an Elva Courier, even most Brit car guys don't know what it is.

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 Posted: 04-18-2020 02:29 pm
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Dakota123
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Finally decided to pull the original 105,000 mile engine. Was going to pull it with the subframe but dopey me after getting the steering shaft ready to pull I forgot to actually pull it and when I started to lift the body of course everything fouled. So the engine/trans came out the old fashioned way, which ended up being no problem — pulling from the front manifold runners (strombergs) balanced things nicely.

New 2.2L and W58 is more or less ready to go in. Will do the front suspension, paint the engine compartment (I didn’t do it when I did the bodywork and paint back in 2011(!) and seat covers, carpet etc. as well. Now that she’s apart I have impetus to actually finish it.

Attachment: 657A40B2-854A-4819-8DDD-C6AC6B69286F.jpeg (Downloaded 102 times)

Last edited on 04-18-2020 06:19 pm by Dakota123

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 Posted: 04-18-2020 02:34 pm
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Dakota123
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Can’t seem to include more than one photo at a time...

Attachment: 94F2EE56-99D3-420B-8D83-000B857278EC.jpeg (Downloaded 105 times)

Last edited on 04-18-2020 02:34 pm by Dakota123

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 Posted: 04-19-2020 12:35 am
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noomg
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If it's not already the plan, this would be a good time to drop the front suspension so it can be rebuilt on the bench(see Wheeler Dealers Jensen-Healey episode). Also it should make painting the engine compartment easier. As always, one thing leads to another.

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 Posted: 04-19-2020 02:15 am
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Dakota123
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Yes, indeedy, already unbolted and ready to pull the subframe.

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 Posted: 04-21-2020 04:24 pm
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noomg
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Just something to think about. I know with engine swap, suspension rebuild, etc. you're aways from getting to the interior but when you do something to consider is putting Dynamat in the doors, weather you were planning to Dynamat the interior or not. Putting it in the doors in combo with new door seals and panels makes the door shut with a solid thud rather than the usual rattle. I've had other J-H guys comment on it.

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 Posted: 04-25-2020 01:32 pm
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Dakota123
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Great minds and all that... Dynamat already in the doors (along with new seals), and I have it on hand to put down on the floor. The doors do indeed have a nice thud now :-)

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 Posted: 06-28-2020 02:04 pm
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Dakota123
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Engine in and started for the first time yesterday on the Strombergs and distributor (injection to come at a later date, after I get the basics sorted). Took a bit of fiddling with timing (my timing light quit working) but basically fired right up. Gratifying in a strange way to hear the starter laboring against the high compression.

Attachment: 34EB8032-4612-4178-963A-4086190A2D16.jpeg (Downloaded 50 times)

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 Posted: 06-28-2020 09:08 pm
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discogodfather
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Engine looks amazing. Is the cog wheel on the front for the fuel injection?

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 Posted: 06-29-2020 01:59 am
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Dakota123
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discogodfather wrote:
Engine looks amazing. Is the cog wheel on the front for the fuel injection?

It is indeed, Megasquirt 2 w/ semi-sequential add-on. Ignition will be Ford EDIS. Throttle bodies are from EFI Hardware in Australia (or NZ, can’t remember). They did a custom fuel rail for me, canted the injector bosses to match the Del Orto intake manifold. Great folks, BTW. Idle control is a Nissan/Infiniti PWM piece. Injectors are Bosch I had lying around, from an A6 2.7T. Need to source the fuel pump. MAP uses equal-length tubing into a collector, also from EFI Hardware (but we’ll see... I have a MAF I may use if I can’t get the MAP to work properly).

At the rate I’m going, should be about 2030 by the time It’s up and running!

Last edited on 06-29-2020 02:54 am by Dakota123

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 Posted: 06-29-2020 06:46 am
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discogodfather
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Dakota123 wrote:
discogodfather wrote:
Engine looks amazing. Is the cog wheel on the front for the fuel injection?

At the rate I’m going, should be about 2030 by the time It’s up and running!


Mine took 15 years, so you are way ahead.

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 Posted: 06-29-2020 01:37 pm
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Dakota123
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Anybody know the size of the 907 oil drain plug? MkII engine. Slight drip from the plug, went to tighten and I can feel it starting to strip, so might need to install an insert.

Edit:  So apparently 1/2"-14 (BSP)?

Last edited on 06-29-2020 02:08 pm by Dakota123

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 Posted: 06-29-2020 11:02 pm
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discogodfather
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That's a good question, I am sure it's an inch thread but is it 1/2"-14 NPT or BSP? Or is there a difference?

I once read that the originals (I guess 72 and 73?) used a whitworth head size. I have one with a magnet in it. I know all Esprits, Eclats used this same plug on the 907, 910, and 912 engines. I think the turbos went to different size.

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 Posted: 06-30-2020 01:44 pm
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Dakota123
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Timesert confirmed that it’s 1/2-14 BSP (straight thread) but recommended 1/2-14 NPT (tapered). But at $300 for a kit, decided to try an O-ring. So far so good.

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 Posted: 07-06-2020 02:04 pm
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Dakota123
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Had her out a couple of times, sorting this that and the other, mainly related to the brakes (Toyota pickup 4-piston calipers — the master cylinder I’m using has only a 0.75 inch bore and doesn’t move enough fluid, will try a 1-inch bore design next) and first impressions are:

Engine — just wow, 2.2L, 104/107 cams, 10.9:1 (10.4 after modern head gasket), mild head porting, 14 lb steel flywheel is a great combo, absolutely transforms the engine.  Accidentally had it to 5,000 rpms maybe half throttle after just a few miles in, really hadn’t meant to do that but she is so rev happy now. 

W58 — I love the ratios. The gear rollover noise in neutral/clutch released is awful, though, thought I had a rod knock until I figured out it is the trans. Apparently common with light flywheels. Not in love with the short-throw shifter, although rev matching works out well with the light flywheel. Might try a standard-throw shifter. Trans mount was no big deal, trimmed one side of the original JH 4-spd mount so I could move it back (it’s sits off center to clear my exhaust system), four new holes in the floor, new holes in the mount to mate to the W58 mount.

Clutch is a Spec Stage 1, 7,000-lb clamp (if I did the math right) for a TR6 with the W58 input shaft option (hard to find that option on Spec’s order sheet, depends on how one arrives at the specific Web page, sometimes it was there and sometimes it wasn’t!) — fit perfectly. Effort is no, or not much, higher than what I remember. No chattering, even brand new.

New front bushings and Bilsteins — feels very modern and put together now. Old dampers didn’t seem bad when I removed them, but the new ones really have made a difference.

All in all, really pleased with he way she’s coming together.

Last edited on 07-09-2020 12:54 pm by Dakota123

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