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Dakota123
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Hi,

As I've described elsewhere, I'm the second owner of 10628.  The original owner (OO) bought her new, sight unseen in 1973 based on preview reviews in magazines.  She lived her life in San Francisco, Great Britain for a time, and then San Diego.  I acquired her about 1 1/2 years ago as the OO realized that was time for her to go to a new home. 

Initially I set about making her street-worthy again after basically a decade of sitting in a garage, unused.  To this point the brakes have had a complete rebuild including rear pistons and shoes, new Type 16p calipers, braided flex lines, TR6 M/C and 10"booster.  Rear bushings were replaced as were the front control arm bushings, one lower ball joint and the steering shaft (total front end rebuild will wait for when I pull the engine).  Front anti-roll bar was added and new alluminum fuel tank to replace the leaking original.  Carbs were selectively rebuilt and plug wires were replaced.

She runs, handles and stops really well and is a daily driver, even if a bit tatty with more than her fair share of dings and dents.  No rust whatsoever, however.

After a major project for work that took far, far too long and caused far, far too much brain damage it's time to turn attention to the cosmetics.  Once that is done, then back to mechanicals (2.2L and Supra 5-spd -- I have the crank, a 2nd gen block, Supra 5-spd and CC kit).

Somehow every panel on the left side has been dented -- looks like maybe a sideswipe incident.  The goal is not to make her show-quality, but a very nice daily driver.  Economics will definitely play a part of course, as will how stock to keep it vs. how much to customize.  In general, I plan to minimize changes to the point where she can be easily put back to box-stock if that ever makes the most sense.

One area where I will probably stray is paint color.  No one in my family likes the original yellow.  My preference is a different yellow, such as maybe Porsche Speed Yellow.  That would be closer to original, at least, and would be true to the fun character of the car.  My family doesn't like Speed Yellow any better though, so I may go with a dark blue as in this AC Ace or maybe a burgundy as on this Aston Martin. (The Ace and Aston pictures are from cars that participated in the 2010 Colorado Grand, BTW, that wrapped up this past weekend in Vail, CO.)    Not as much fun to me, but this is after all a family project and everyone needs to be (generally!) happy.  Plenty of work before getting to that point!  Anyway, here is the current status:




Eventually it will be a bare-metal respray but in the interest of keeping it driveable to the extent possible I'm going about it basically one panel at a time.

More updates in the future...

Mike

Last edited on 09-21-2010 12:55 am by Dakota123

Dakota123
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So I've finally been able to restart the work on 10628; the work project that was supposed to end a year ago drags on. Ironically, I'm living basically full time where 10628 spent the last several years (north San Diego County) -- so I shipped it back out from home so I have something to do in the evenings/weekends.

Surprise, the PO had a respray done on the right side at some point. Glad I decided to strip it completely. It would have been somewhat ridiculous with three layers of paint on there. Weak-kneed California stripper took a couple of applications given the thick layers of paint, followed by hitting it w/ the DA sander.

It's always darkest before the dawn, as they say.



By the end of the day she was looking better...



I've had the rear bumper off for so long that I'm starting to like the look better without bumpers. I'm torn, leave it off or put it back? (MK1 stainless, decent condition.) Would be no hard task to 'glass the openings. Hmmm.



I've pretty well decided on the Porsche Speed Yellow color.

Mike

Last edited on 05-02-2011 07:06 am by Dakota123

subwoofer
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Dakota123 wrote:
I've had the rear bumper off for so long that I'm starting to like the look better without bumpers. I'm torn, leave it off or put it back? (MK1 stainless, decent condition.) Would be no hard task to 'glass the openings. Hmmm.

If you decide to take rear bumper off, do yourself the favour to do it properly, i.e. fill in the holes with sheet metal and make a full butt weld. Much better in the long run.

Here in Norway, we call it an "American style repair" when we find collision or corrosion damage repaired by adding a very badly fitting piece of metal or fibreglass underneath 1/2" of Bondo... :-)

Car is shaping up, btw! It's going to be a fine piece when you get it painted and reassembled!

--
Joachim

Last edited on 05-02-2011 08:05 pm by subwoofer

Dakota123
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I'm thinking fiberglass precisely because it would be easier to undo. She's a complete, 100% original car and someday it may make sense to restore it as such -- if not me, maybe the next owner.

For that reason I don't plan on selling the wheels, 4-spd or original engine. I want someone to be able to put it back completely stock should they so chose.

But yeah, I understand your point of view.

Mike

Dakota123
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If anybody out there has an extra, I'm looking for a right side headlight cowl. The original was lost in shipping; I had forgotten to screw the thing down. This is the square corner, Mk1 variety.

I purchased an aftermarket item from Delta, but the contour where it meets the hood (bonnet) is not even close to being correct (the edge sits far lower than the hood) and consequently there is a huge, ugly gap.

Thanks in advance,

Mike

Last edited on 05-16-2011 04:45 am by Dakota123

Frank Schwartz
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Obviously yours is yellow, but the factory yellow is a bit greenish.  We repainted my daughter's JH with a Chrysler yellow called "Buttercup"..a very good yellow indeed...she had the car in NY and sold it and now it is in, of all places, Norway...new owner sent a picture and it looks great posed in a field of flowers.

Chrysler  "Buttercup"....you will like it !!

Frank Schwartz

Dakota123
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Painted 10628 last night; major step complete. Color is Porsche Speed Yellow - -well, actually, Speed Yellow with a pint of white and a pint of yellow toner added in to mellow it a bit. Had an "ack!" moment when I picked up the paint; Somehow more orange than most of the examples I had seen (although there does seem to be some variability, even when the paint code is the same).

Anyway, PPG DCC Concept is magic stuff. Just a hint of orange peel that I am sure will color sand right out. And even when I lost concentration at one point and laid it on thick in one area, the paint just sorted itself out, no run. Great stuff.

Edit: Replaced last night's photo with a day-light photo. Still not a perfect representation of reality, but better.

(And lest anybody think I was rude to Frank by not replying, we had a PM conversation...)

Last edited on 06-28-2011 07:18 pm by Dakota123

dwalls1
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Yep, that's yellow allright. Looks Great.  Keep the keen pics coming.

Dakota123
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Replaced last night's photo taken under flourescent lights with a daylight photo -- much closer to reality. A little more vibrant than what I intended, but not too far off. Definitely a tough process getting the color one has in mind.

Tell you what, I have a newfound respect for the folks that do this for a living. Definitely a labor-intensive, not to mention nerve-wracking, experience all around. I'd much rather rebuild an engine!

Here's what she looked like in 1973; that's the original owner.





Mike

Last edited on 06-28-2011 07:03 pm by Dakota123

Dakota123
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A quick update now that the 15" VDO wheels (from the club store) and 205/50 Yokohama S-Drive tires are on. Still a few bits to install but hard to believe it's the same car.

Mike

Dakota123
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Not sure what posessed me since she's nowhere near show-quality, but 10628 will be at San Diego British Car Day (October 2, 2011) -- anbody else planning to attend?

Mike

Mason Jones
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Are you kidding? Even if not show quality it looks fantastic! If I lived near San Diego I would drag mine up just to get a few laughs.

Mason

Dakota123
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Thanks for the kind words, Mason -- I checked with the show's organizer and he assured me that it isn't one of "those" kinds of shows (and then related a story of a show he once judged where a car's "owner" didn't even know how to start his car since he had never actually driven it. Crazy.)

Anyway, here are some pictures of the car with the Robbins top almost complete (new velcro to go). Would have come in handy driving around San Diego last Monday, rained off an on all afternoon --of course, go fast enough and no need for the top (drat those traffic lights!)

One of these days I'll take some pictures against a proper, scenic backdrop (instead of a powerplant).

I'm still a little conflicted on the lack of rear bumper. Overall I like it better but obviously the stainless finisher strips "die" too early (they should carry down a little further), and from the side it looks a little plain. The whole thing is a little "unresolved" as they say in the design world.

Last edited on 09-09-2011 01:47 am by Dakota123

Jensen Healey
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Very nice work indeed! The bonnet to bumper shut line is awesome!

Kurt

Dakota123
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Thanks, you should have seen it when I started! To be sure, a bunch of pushing and pulling and bending and tweaking to get it reasoably close. Clearly she had been in a fender-bender and nothing lined up.

Mike

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Wow, the car looks fantastic! I like the back end, very clean.

Mason Jones
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What about putting the "Jensen-Healey" stripe decal that normally goes on the sides on the rear-end where the bumper was? Won't help the profile but might look nice from the rear.

Had also seen somewhere recently someone had replaced the rear bumper with a very minimal chrome 2 piece from a Shelby Cobra. Can't find it now but it gave it a more 60's LBC look.

Jensen Healey
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The two piece bumpers were TR3 items on cut down mounts if we're thinking of the same car.

Kurt

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Yes, that sounds right, he had replaced the taillights with small round ones from ??? which added to the 60's look. I seem to recall a lot of fabbing was involved. Wish I could find the danged thing...

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This one?

http://ten680.wordpress.com/2011/06/26/new-rear-bumpers/

Jensen Healey
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I'm thinking of this one.

Attachment: RichThomasJH (Small).jpg (Downloaded 132 times)

Tim Murphy
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Jensen Healey rear bumper

I am not sure, but I thought a rear bumper was legally required in California.  Does anyone know for sure?

A couple of suggestions.  What I did on my back stainless bumber was drill new mounting holes in the car frame which moved the bumber much closer to the body.  Looks much better. 

The other thing I am thinking of is painting the lower black portion of both the front and rear bumpers the same color as the body.  I think that looks better. 

Great job on your restoration.  IMO, the JH styling is classic and elegant and they screwed it up with the bumpers, body trim and by painting the wheels black. 

Dakota123
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California does require front and rear bumpers if the vehicle came so equipped. But Colorado doesn't and that's where 10628 is registered. Should protect me until I send her back home.

I like the idea of mounting the bumper closer in; I had the same thought. Or maybe reducing the depth of a MKII bumper.

I'm going to leave it for the time being. Too many other things to get to, like interior, and cam drive pulleys that are suddenly looking scary-worn.

Mike

Brett Gibson JH5 20497
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can you post a picture of the closer rear bumper sounds like a good option.

Brett

Tim Murphy
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Here is a view from under the car looking up at bumper mounting bracket:

Attachment: Under car looking upJ1.jpg (Downloaded 111 times)

Tim Murphy
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Here is a view from the side. I had my wheels stripped and polished and also feel that is a big improvement.

Attachment: Side view w wheelJ2.jpg (Downloaded 123 times)

Tim Murphy
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Here is a view looking down at the bumper from the back.

Attachment: Back view looking downJ3.jpg (Downloaded 124 times)

Brett Gibson JH5 20497
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Thanks for the photo's Tim I must say it looks very clean and appropriate. The factory probably had it out further than necassary to cover slight impacts but your version is the way I'l be going.

Brett

Dakota123
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That looks great! Do you happen to have a rear 3/4 or straight on view?

Mike

Dakota123
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San Diego British car day today. Fun day, perfect weather.

Four Jensen Healeys and two Interceptors:


The black one won best-in-class. All-original, including very good paint.

Last edited on 10-04-2011 07:33 am by Dakota123

Dakota123
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10628 will be getting a 2.2L w/ flowed head, 10.5:1 pistons, lighter rods, center-doweled bearing ladder, steel flywheel, W58 trans, ARP rod and head fasteners, and Megasquirt (using some fairly well-worn Dellortos as throttle bodies).



I think pasta would hold studs better than the aluminum used in 907s.  Strangely, only one cam carrier stud stripped during the shimming process (and the PO had Helicoiled one), but then after sitting for several months before finally installing the carriers (as in, for the friggin' last time), four more stripped.  Thanks To Jensen Healey, Super Mod, for mentioning in a post that it's wise to have a Helicoil set on hand.  Or two.



VR bracket is actually for a Mitsu Starion -- an ebay seller has them listed for $20 or so.  A new hole, and a small bracket left over from my A6 2.7T turbo upgrade job (as in, where the hell does THIS go??  Oh well, I'm sure it will be fine without it...) and we have a suitably rigid mount that works with a Mk I front cover.  The 36 -1 wheel is from a Ford Taurus; thanks to Steve D. for the suggestion.  His write-up is comprehensive and useful. I'm hoping to have this all timed so I can drop it in when the weather turns too cold for top-down driving, but not typical mid-winter Colorado cold...

Last edited on 08-26-2013 03:49 pm by Dakota123

Jensen Healey
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Wow! Beautiful work! Which cams are you using? What brake and suspension mods are you doing to handle the increase in power?

When shimming the cams, take two and call me in the morning.


Kurt













































































































subwoofer
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Dakota123 wrote:
Megasquirt (using some fairly well-worn Dellortos as throttle bodies).


Will you be using the "TB"s dry and have a visible fuel rail, or will you make it a true stealth installation? I'd love to see pictures once it is done.

BTW: You do not say which MS version you are planning to use, but I would much recommend forking out the extra few hundred $s for an MS3+MS3X. That firmware is evolving at breakneck speed at the moment, and does everything you need at the moment. It gets easier to tune for every new version.

Probably needless to say, but no matter which MS you go for, run the MSExtra firmware and frequent the msextra.com message board. Also, buy the full license for both TunerStudio and MegaLogViewer. You will need both at some time.

Also: get one of jbperf's VR conditioner boards, the main board conditioner circuit is c¤%& and causing trouble no end. If you remove questions about EDIS and the VR circuits, you remove half the posts on the msextra.com forum... :-)

I am at the bleeding edge of that firmware right now, running experimental MAF code. Sort of fun to do, but maybe not a recommended course of action unless you enjoy it.

--
Joachim

Dakota123
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104/107 cams.  I picked the head up off of ebay -- it was advertised as a "Skip Brown clone", and it looks to have been properly ported, i.e. in the right places and with the right geometry.  The valves are slightly oversize.  Intakes are 1.425".  Hopefully the combo will work well. 

So far I've taken the brakes half way.  16P (vs. 14) calipers and a larger booster.  My M/C has started leaking so I'm contemplating what to do next.  Probably a larger piston size.  With the larger booster the increased pedal effort should be acceptable.  At some point I really want to go to a big brake setup and disks in the rear.  But then, I also want to convert my A6 to a manual transmission.  So yeah. Suspension has front and rear bars and Superpros in the back.  When I pull the front subframe to change the engine and trans I'll do the front bushings.  Undecided on dampers.  I like the adjustability of Spax and AVO but the quality scares me (and I'm just not familiar with AVO).  I'm also considering Greg's Bilsteins.

I think I'll use the Dells dry.  Stealth is good but on balance I think a conventional setup is best for me.  I mean, I already have a saw wheel hanging off the front so stealth is a bit out the window.

Thanks for the MS tips. Very useful info!  I polished the trigger wheel serrations - -I had read that roughness or scratches can cause problems.  Good to know that there may be more around the corner.  I'm planning to run a MAF so interesting to know that the code is may not be quite there yet.  I've tuned my A6 to 365 HP (thanks to the very intelligent folks on http://www.nefmoto.com   ) so yes, I do enjoy that part of it.  As long as it is physically possible to make it work, anyway.

Last edited on 08-27-2013 05:39 pm by Dakota123

subwoofer
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Since you are planning on running MAF (at some point), you really should get an MS3 - the code being worked on now is MS3 only and may not be backported to MS2. The MAF code in pre1.3a7 (the latest officially available firmware) is miles better than anything that came before it, but it still struggles with the pulsatile MAF signal a normally aspirated '4 makes at WOT at low revs. But there are ways around the problem, my car is quite smooth by now - the solution may just not be obvious at first.

Have a look here: http://www.msextra.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=125&t=50605
--
Joachim

Dakota123
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subwoofer wrote: Have a look here: http://www.msextra.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=125&t=50605
Bookmarked, many thanks!

Mike

Dakota123
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I've about given up looking for an Esprit, Excel or Eclat air box. Thinking about a Pipercross. They make a deep variety which should work well with velocity stacks of decent length. Looks like it will mate well to a MAF as well.

Picked up 32 lb (at 2.5 bar) EV6 Roush Ford Raptor take-offs for $50 for 8. They are 'medium' height rather than 'shorts' which I would have preferred but can't beat the price, and the flow rate (at 3 or 4 bar) is in the sweet spot for 200-225 HP which is what I'm hoping for(sea level). Fuel pressure regulator body is from Radium Engineering, takes a standard Volkswagen/Audi pressure regulator. Very cool product, beautifully made.

Getting closer...

Last edited on 09-11-2013 08:00 pm by Dakota123

dbeliveau74
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Another option would to use 71 Camaro RS front bumpers and trim the corners so they lay flat against the back.  the lights are after market items available from a Kit car parts finisher solutions dealer. You can find them here: http://www.carbuildersolutions.com/uk/electrical-lighting

Attachment: 1973-jensen-healey-fwrraritl (600 x 337).jpg (Downloaded 26 times)

Last edited on 01-19-2017 03:59 am by dbeliveau74

dbeliveau74
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Front view My concept strictly photo shopped

Attachment: 18rhb7x8rcjpwjpgdaytonafrtgrn (600 x 421).jpg (Downloaded 25 times)



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