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Darth V8Rs project  Rating:  Rating
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 Posted: 04-30-2024 01:51 pm
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noomg
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Vance,

Long way to go but you've reached the point where every step is a step forward. The first thing I'd do is get rid of that hood prop it's the cause of the "dreaded hood crease" which almost every J/H suffers from to one degree or another. I use a telescopic prop rod mounted on that self in front of the radiator. The cool thing which you may have noticed is you can raise the hood quite a bit higher than the stock hood prop allows which is nice since you'll be spending a lot of time under that hood.

Make sure the shop dealing with your head knows the 907, there is a specific procedure for doing the head. West Coast Racing Heads used to be the go to but they no longer work on them. I believe there's a place in San Diego area that does them, a trip to one of the many Lotus websites can probably get you a name and address or maybe even a shop closer to you. Crack on Mate!

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 Posted: 04-30-2024 05:13 pm
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vnavaret
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noomg wrote:
Vance,

Long way to go but you've reached the point where every step is a step forward. The first thing I'd do is get rid of that hood prop it's the cause of the "dreaded hood crease" which almost every J/H suffers from to one degree or another. I use a telescopic prop rod mounted on that shelf in front of the radiator. The cool thing which you may have noticed is you can raise the hood quite a bit higher than the stock hood prop allows which is nice since you'll be spending a lot of time under that hood.

I just read a thread discussing the hood crease, and I had noticed it on the unrestored hood before it went off to paint. The PO had completely disconnected the prop after it had apparently jammed. A little oil got it working again, and I assume the PO was too lazy to oil the damn thing, hence the crease.

It seems that converting the hood to dual gas struts would be the way to go, as the hood is a bit wobbly with just the single original strut. It is now on the list of things to do at some point - I will need to track down some info on doing the conversion. The relevant hyperlinks I have found to date no longer work.

I doubt I will need to spend much time under the hood, as of course the car will start and idle perfectly on the first try. Not.

To infinity, and beyond!!!

Vance

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 Posted: 04-30-2024 09:26 pm
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redracer
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Vance: somewhere on this site I've written about fixing the "bend" in the bonnet.
I first saw this repair on Clay Gleason's car(he named it "LUCY" , from the comic strip Peanuts, and even had his driver's door jam on the rear steel plate "engraved" with her picture!). This was at the 2nd Jensen National in Carmel Valley in 1990. Clay stated a body man in Seattle had cut the lower part out(intending to straighten that and weld it back in later) in order to get at the main hood for straightening. The body man also welding in a piece of steel under the opening, about 1 1/2" X 15" X 1/8" thick to strengthen this area. He then carefully welded the the outer piece back in(stressing the parts in the opposite direction so the heat would not "shrink" the the area), ground down the welds, and repainted. The 2 original #10X32thds/inch holds can be reused for the hood support!
Unless you knew, you would never notice the repair plus this area is now MUCH stiffer than the original!(I did this exact repair in the late '90s here in Atlanta, and it came out extremely well)

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 Posted: 05-01-2024 12:16 am
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noomg
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Vance,

I know some guys have done the twin gas strut arrangement but I'm not a fan aside from the expense the problem for me is they're still supporting the hood from the middle which is where the crease lives. What I like about the prop rod is by supporting the hood from the front it takes it takes stress off the middle hood and you don't have to work around it when working on the motor. Of course your car, your choice.

As far as the motor goes some years ago I rebuilt the motor in my TR7. I started from the bare block replacing all the usual stuff. Once assembled and installed with everything hooked up I charged the battery in preparation of a couple of days of cranking and tweeking. I steeled myself for the chore ahead. I put the key in the ignition and turned it, the motor cranked for maybe 5 seconds immediately fired up and ran great!

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 Posted: 06-08-2024 06:01 pm
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vnavaret
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Folks:
Another much delayed update on Rusty.

Since the last missive, I have rebuilt the front hubs, and installed them along with the new Spitfire/JH calipers from British Parts Northwest. Fitment, like so many things, was not quite trivial. For some reason the mounting holes in the new calipers were 7/16" instead of 3/8" so the mounting was sloppy. My solution was to cut some 7/16" stainless tubing to size, and use it as a bushing to resize the caliper mounts to 3/8". Worked like a champ.

On the back end, I installed the rear suspension with all new bushings, bearings, shocks, and brakes (photo attached). I also had to  install new springs, as one spring had a free length 3/4" less than the other - indicating the springs were shot. It was the left spring that was shorter, which I have read in this forum is pretty typical (driver sits on that side in the US).

I put on a layer of undercoating on the new floor pans, using Dupli-color truck bed liner. I will be putting on at least one more coat. I got some plastic 5/8" sheet metal hole plugs from Ace Hardware, and popped them in all the holes. Are the holes supposed to be there for drainage? Dunno, but they had rotten rubber plugs in them when the car was delivered.

I have also spent many hours sorting out the wiring harness, which will be the next thing to be installed. I had to cut it open and replace some burned wires, and replace many of the multi-pin connector shells which had crumbled over time. British Wiring supplied the replacement shells, and I used some short lengths of brass tubing to facilitate the removal and reinstallation of the pins. I used harness tape (NOT electrical tape!) to rewrap the harness. The previous owner had cut several wires to disable the ignition interlock (mandated by Uncle Sam for one model year. Grrr.) so I had to sort through that and patch the wires. Turns out simply disconnecting the occupant switch in the seat will defeat the interlock, so why did he hack up the harness? Amateur...

Popped on a few of the badges, too. After the wiring harness I may start assembling the doors.

Oh, yeah, got my 0.030" over high compression pistons from Delta Motor Sports. Don't know when I will be taking on the engine. Plans are to raise the compression, and use a 104 cam on the exhaust. David Vizard (the go-to guru for horsepower) says that more duration on the exhaust is superior to using more duration on the intake. All modern cams are built this way, so why JHPS recommends more duration the intake is beyond my comprehension.

Stay tuned for more news about Rusty...

Vance

Attachment: IMG_0397_small.jpg (Downloaded 29 times)

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 Posted: 06-09-2024 03:40 pm
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noomg
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Vance,

The question of drainage holes in the floorpans is one that has come up on any number of message boards. The general consensus is that they are alignment holes. There are alignment pegs on the jig that the car sits on during assembly. The stamped floorboards with the holes are simply placed on the pegs then it can be welded into place and down the line some gomer pops the plugs into the holes.

If you think about it drain holes in a car don't make much sense and if that was their purpose why would they plug them.

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 Posted: 06-09-2024 09:32 pm
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JH12947
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On other message boards to which I belong the consensus has generally been that the holes are for drainage for when a body shell is dipped at the factory for rust protection. The holes allow for the treatment to drain and are not for general drainage during life on the road. They are therefor plugged.

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