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Moderated by: Greg Fletcher | Page: 1 2 3 |
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Darth V8Rs project | Rate Topic |
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Posted: 04-30-2024 01:51 pm |
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41st Post |
noomg Member
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Vance, Long way to go but you've reached the point where every step is a step forward. The first thing I'd do is get rid of that hood prop it's the cause of the "dreaded hood crease" which almost every J/H suffers from to one degree or another. I use a telescopic prop rod mounted on that self in front of the radiator. The cool thing which you may have noticed is you can raise the hood quite a bit higher than the stock hood prop allows which is nice since you'll be spending a lot of time under that hood. Make sure the shop dealing with your head knows the 907, there is a specific procedure for doing the head. West Coast Racing Heads used to be the go to but they no longer work on them. I believe there's a place in San Diego area that does them, a trip to one of the many Lotus websites can probably get you a name and address or maybe even a shop closer to you. Crack on Mate!
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Posted: 04-30-2024 05:13 pm |
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42nd Post |
vnavaret Member
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noomg wrote: Vance, I just read a thread discussing the hood crease, and I had noticed it on the unrestored hood before it went off to paint. The PO had completely disconnected the prop after it had apparently jammed. A little oil got it working again, and I assume the PO was too lazy to oil the damn thing, hence the crease. It seems that converting the hood to dual gas struts would be the way to go, as the hood is a bit wobbly with just the single original strut. It is now on the list of things to do at some point - I will need to track down some info on doing the conversion. The relevant hyperlinks I have found to date no longer work. I doubt I will need to spend much time under the hood, as of course the car will start and idle perfectly on the first try. Not. To infinity, and beyond!!! Vance
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Posted: 04-30-2024 09:26 pm |
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43rd Post |
redracer Member
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Vance: somewhere on this site I've written about fixing the "bend" in the bonnet. I first saw this repair on Clay Gleason's car(he named it "LUCY" , from the comic strip Peanuts, and even had his driver's door jam on the rear steel plate "engraved" with her picture!). This was at the 2nd Jensen National in Carmel Valley in 1990. Clay stated a body man in Seattle had cut the lower part out(intending to straighten that and weld it back in later) in order to get at the main hood for straightening. The body man also welding in a piece of steel under the opening, about 1 1/2" X 15" X 1/8" thick to strengthen this area. He then carefully welded the the outer piece back in(stressing the parts in the opposite direction so the heat would not "shrink" the the area), ground down the welds, and repainted. The 2 original #10X32thds/inch holds can be reused for the hood support! Unless you knew, you would never notice the repair plus this area is now MUCH stiffer than the original!(I did this exact repair in the late '90s here in Atlanta, and it came out extremely well)
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Posted: 05-01-2024 12:16 am |
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44th Post |
noomg Member
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Vance, I know some guys have done the twin gas strut arrangement but I'm not a fan aside from the expense the problem for me is they're still supporting the hood from the middle which is where the crease lives. What I like about the prop rod is by supporting the hood from the front it takes it takes stress off the middle hood and you don't have to work around it when working on the motor. Of course your car, your choice. As far as the motor goes some years ago I rebuilt the motor in my TR7. I started from the bare block replacing all the usual stuff. Once assembled and installed with everything hooked up I charged the battery in preparation of a couple of days of cranking and tweeking. I steeled myself for the chore ahead. I put the key in the ignition and turned it, the motor cranked for maybe 5 seconds immediately fired up and ran great!
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