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Oil pan gasket or seal replacement  Rate Topic 
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 Posted: 11-05-2021 11:25 pm
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jomac
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Has anyone tried to reseal the oil pan by unbolting and dropping pan straight down and resting in the front crossmenber. I looks like there is 1 to 2 inch clearance where you could strip off the old gasket and use rtv then bolt it back up? I just changed my clutch and the car is up about 20 inches. It looks possible.

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 Posted: 11-07-2021 06:34 am
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Esprit2
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I'll pass on the question about "Is there enough room". But I will strongly recommend that you not use an RTV silicone sealant.

When you bolt the joint back together, it's likely that some excess silicone will squeeze out of the joint. No big deal on the outside, you just wipe off the excess with a rag, and no mess.

However, for every bit of silicone that oozes 'out', you can just about bet a similar amound oozes to the inside of the engine. The ooze cures to a string of little rubber beads clinging to the joint line by a very thin film of silicone. Over time, engine vibration causes the beads to break off, then they migrate (ride the oil flow) to the sump.

I hate to think of the number of engines I have opened after they ran the bearings due to oil presssure failure. Only to find the oil pick-up screen plugged by a mess of little silicone rubber beads. The plugged screen is why the oil pressure crashed in an otherwise healthy engine.

Your choice, but I will not use RTV silicone sealant in an engine... with only a very few exceptions. The sump isn't one of those exceptions.

Regards,
Tim Engel

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 Posted: 11-07-2021 03:47 pm
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redracer
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Agree strongly with Tim's recommendations along with the possible calamity of oil pick-up tube blockage. Personally, I would use silicone ONLY on the water pump or thermostat gasket, but still prefer Permatex #2 even there.

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 Posted: 11-08-2021 12:07 am
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jomac
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Ok. Rtv is not a good choice , however , it doesn't answer my question can you drop the oil pan enough to gain access to the seal flange . If so, is there enough clearances to slide in a new gasket or use a different sealer that is not silicone based.

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 Posted: 11-08-2021 01:04 am
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redracer
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Having worked on "many", I have looked at that long ago and decided it was not worth the effort. If I remember correctly, you would have to raise the engine slightly just to clear the front subframe.
But hey, give it a shot and let us know what you have determined.
As you know or have read in the "shop" manuals, to change the clutch they want you to pull the engine, which as most know, is not necessary, so maybe you have a "new" way!

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 Posted: 11-08-2021 10:26 pm
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Tom Bradley
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Not a chance unless you can come up with some way to jack up the engine. I jacked up my car and took a quick look. The smallest gap between the bottom of the pan and the frame is less than 3/8". The length of the studs and bolts holding pan on are about 1". The only way I have ever been able to safely jack up the engine is by putting piece of wood under the oil pan to spread out the force, so that pretty much cancels out that possibility unless you use a hoist to lift it from the top. I also don't see any way to get a wrench on some of the bolts. Sorry.

Last edited on 11-08-2021 10:26 pm by Tom Bradley

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 Posted: 11-16-2021 01:16 am
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jomac
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Thanks for all your advise, looks like an engine pull next.

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 Posted: 11-16-2021 06:36 pm
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noomg
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Jomac,

You could also drop the front suspension and steering, it basically comes out as a unit, Ant did it on Wheeler Dealers. You'll have to support the motor from above but it should give you good access to the oil pan.

Also if the front suspension needs to be rebuilt you can do it comfortably on a work bench rather than working under the car.

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 Posted: 09-25-2022 02:41 pm
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jomac
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sorry for the long delay , harborfreight.com sells a engine bar to support the engine from above using the fender flanging as support for 90$. Then I can drop the front crossmember. replacing the suspension bushings and dropping oil pan.
Looks like the best and easiest way to do the leaking oil seal.

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 Posted: 09-25-2022 04:33 pm
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redracer
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jomac: years ago I made a support for the engine block for exactly the same purpose, rebuilding the front suspension. I used wood(2'X4"s would work, but a piece of oak from a home center is stronger) since the entire engine with the ancillaries only weighs 275 lbs.
I added extra "blocks" onto the ends so it would sit on the 1 1/2" wide support beams and used strapping under the engine.
If you plan to rebuild the entire front, I STRONGLY recommend welding an extra 1/8" plate to the front lower frame where the lower arm bolts come through. The rear part has a second piece of metal from the subframe, but the front hole gets wallowed out from normal forces on that one "thin" piece.

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 Posted: 09-26-2022 12:20 am
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jomac
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Thanks for all the responses, this will be my winter project.
Last winter I did a new clutch, one piece driveshaft, Holley sniper efi And pertronix ignitor 2 , .
Wow want a difference!!

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