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Got it started  Rating:  Rating
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 Posted: 06-16-2015 09:13 pm
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Bfitz241
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Thought I give an update.
Haven't done much to the car due to some unexpected health issues, so hopefully I'll get to it soon.
BUT, I went out to the garage to visit it and the driver's side mirror had fallen off! Casting failed...I think it's mad at me.

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 Posted: 06-22-2015 04:01 am
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Bfitz241
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As I mentioned in the Brake forum, I took the booster and master out. Had them rebuilt by Apple Hydraulics in Riverhead NY. Looks like they did a good job, we'll know when I get them in.

Car currently has an Autometer tach but I have the original Smiths.
Anyone have any experience with Nisonger Instruments? I'm probably going to send the tach to them for updating.

Also found a hole in the brake line that runs to the rear brakes. Will replace that when I replaced the rubber brake lines.

Last edited on 06-22-2015 04:13 am by Bfitz241

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 Posted: 06-23-2015 12:12 am
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Frank Schwartz
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That works...but don't forget also to unplug the two wire leads to the brake switch....

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 Posted: 06-23-2015 02:53 am
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Bfitz241
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You got me with that...Can't remember if I did or not...is that something that needs to be done to get it back together?

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 Posted: 06-23-2015 08:35 am
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Frank Schwartz
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NO...but you have to remove the two wire leads to the switch to remove the pedal assembly...and remember when you put it all back together, to connect the two wires...or you won't have any brake lights....

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 Posted: 06-23-2015 01:45 pm
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Bfitz241
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AH! I see. Will do

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 Posted: 02-12-2016 05:46 pm
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Bfitz241
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Latest update, transmission out. Clutch and flywheel out. Throwout bearing was growling. Going to check the trans for sychroes and overall condition. Trans has a leak at the rear, could be the driveshaft seal. There is an oil leak at the back of the engine, however, there is no oil running down the back of the block. It's all below the centerline of the crank. Could be the rear seal but that looks new. Could be a leak from the oil pan itself. I wonder if that stud goes into the inside of the pan and oil is wicking out the stud. I plan on pulling the engine so I'll check it when it's on the stand.

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 Posted: 02-21-2016 12:49 am
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Esprit2
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I know, I'm very late, but I just ran across this thread. Maybe this will be of use to the next guy.Bfitz241 wrote:
The fuel tank is in the back of my pickup and I'm running it on an outboard gas tank with an inline electric fuel pump.

I'd also like some opinions on whether those Dellortos are even worth it.

But I still need to get the oil off the points and inspect that distributor.

Which inline fuel pump are you using. More to the point, what is the fuel pressure at the carb inlets? It should be 1.5 to 2.5 psi. More will over-power the float/ inlet valve and result in a high fuel level and flooding. If the pressure is high, install an inline fuel pressure regulator, and set it to 2.0 psi.

The Dellortos are great all by themselves, once set they require minimal maintenance/ tuning, but they will only be as good as the guy who installed them.

They should be installed with soft mounts and Thackeray washers (coil springs) or rubber grommets. Do not tighten the mounting nuts down hard. There should be a 0.040-0.050" gap all around both sides of the soft mount. They should never be hard mounted.

The carbs must be balanced after installation. If they're not balanced, then the engine will run like crap. That's not the carb's fault, that's the installer's fault. All multi-carb set-ups are subject to balance, not just Dellortos. It's basic Carbs 101.

There should be no oil on the points, or in the distributor. Presence of oil indicates the distributor's seal is bad. Either replace it, or pay to have the distributor rebuilt. Advanced Distributors is good (they're about a half hour from me), and Jeff can make a decrepit old piece of crap distributor better than new for about $115.

Jeff is a little stubborn, and has his own ideas about how to set up a distributor. Just tell him you want stock J-H spec, and be diplomatic in your conversations. Cop an attitude, and you'll lose him in the first sentence. He has zero tolerance for bull or attitude, despite his own attitude. He's really a nice guy, just go easy until you know him.
Bfitz241 wrote:What type of cranking compression does a stock 907 generate? Maybe I can figure it out with a compression gauge.
7.58 - 8.96 bar (110 - 130 psi) COLD = Jensen-Healey spec
10.2 - 11.6 bar (150 - 170 psi) HOT = Lotus spec
Lotus specifies that the compression is to be tested HOT with the engine up to full operating temperature, throttle held fully open, and engine cranking at least 200 rpm (ie, battery fully charged). That's a little tough if you can't get the engine running in the first place. If you have the option, check the compression pressure hot. Failing that, a cold test is better than nothing.
Bfitz241 wrote:It starts advancing at 1200/1*, 1300/3*, 1600/4*, 1800/5*, 2000/6*, 2200/7*, 2400/9*, 2600/10*, 2800/12*, 3200/14*, 3600/15*, 4200/16*, 4600/17*, 5200/18, 7000/18.5* Point bounce began to set in around 5500-5700.Spec is 17 crank degrees all in by 2500 rpm. However, 16 to 18 is good, and a little bit more by redline is okay... well, good.
Jim Ketcham wrote:I do not know if I was clear in my earlier post, but you should NOT be using VACUUM RETARD on the Dellorto configuration. Even on the Stromberg configuration it does not offer any performance benefit. The Dellorto configuration came with the Lucas 23D distributor that does not have a vacuum module on it.True, the vacuum retard is an emissions setting incorporated into the Zenith-Stromberg emissions set-up, and not fully consistent with the Dellorto performance set-up. But the vacuum retard only comes into play at closed throttle idle, and has no real detrimental affect when used with Dellortos. Once the throttle is cracked open enough to break the vacuum, the retard goes away (it's all or nothing). For all driving above idle, vacuum retard is a non-issue. Don't bust a hump over it either way.

The one downside is that the initial off-idle throttle response can be a little sluggish while the vacuum capsule responds (a split second), but once you're launched, it's not a factor. For autocross or motorsports, delete the vacuum retard for optimal throttle response. For street driving it's not much of a factor, and the upside is that the retard produces a more benign idle.
Bfitz241 wrote:Water pump out, looked ok but I took it out so it's getting rebuilt.The J-H water pump has forward curved vanes on the impellor, and the vanes are small and few in number. The forward curved vanes result in cavitation at higher rpm, resulting loss of pumping efficiency, and a tendancy to run hot or over-heat. Later 'Lotus' 907 impellers have backward curved vanes that cure the cavitation problem, but are still small and few in number

The 910 Turbo impellor has a full compliment of long, backward curved vanes, and it's a huge improvement in coolant flow. The problem is that the 910 impellor's snout is longer, so it won't fit in a J-H pump housing. But take the new and old impellors to a machine shop, and have them shorten the 910's snout so the overall length matches the short J-H impellor. Once that's done, the new impellor assembles into the pump as before (follow the book). If you live in a hot climate, or if the engine tends to run hot, this is a good mod.

Somewhere along the way, Lotus 'metricated'. The early impellor has a 1/2" bore, and later ones have a 12mm bore. And there's a matching bearing/shaft for each. Either will fit in any pump housing, just buy a bearing that matches the impellor you have. 910 impellors came both ways, so either specify one with a 1/2" bore to match a standard J-H bearing, or get the 12mm if that's all that's available, and order the right bearing to match.

Regards,
Tim Engel

Last edited on 02-23-2016 02:57 am by Esprit2

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 Posted: 02-21-2016 03:09 am
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Bfitz241
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The pump is one of the real garbage autozone type electric black boxes...forget the name, it self regulates to 3 psi per my gauge. When it seizes I'll install a Carter with a bypass [I'm a fan of bypass fuel systems]
Dell Ortos, check Balancing, just like my Honda..piece o' cake.
I fixed the distributor myself with the seal info I found here, so thank you to the author of those posts.

Water pump, check. New impeller, housing machined

Took my shifter to a friend yesterday to make up some bushings to replace the disintegrating nylon[?] or fiber that was there. Whatever it was fell apart when we drove the pin out. Got it back today, much better.

Transmission getting dropped off Monday for inspection and any repairs [it actually works, but I want the synchroes inspected and the seals and gaskets replaced]

My biggest issue, besides the transmission being out, is that one valve is tapping. I'm restraining myself not to take it apart until I have it out. Then I'll do the belt, tensioner and valve adjustment all at once. I hope the cam doesn't have a flat lobe but we shall see.

Thanks for the response, very helpful

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 Posted: 02-29-2016 03:45 am
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Bfitz241
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Transmission, flywheel. clutch and release bearing all being inspected and repaired as needed.
I'm giving serious consideration to having the driveshaft balanced. Has anyone had an issue with driveshaft balance? I figure that since it's out.....
If I can get my brother to help me remove the hood the engine will be on the stand next.
My parts list is growing.

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 Posted: 03-12-2016 07:38 pm
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Bfitz241
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transmission to a respected transmission shop locally. He opened it up and will be putting synchroes, and a reverse slider in it. Everything else looks usable. Going to use 75W-90 GL4 synthetic in it. Anyone have a favorite brand? I've heard some transmissions prefer a heavier lube, anyone used say 85w-140? Thanks

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 Posted: 03-27-2016 07:08 pm
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Bfitz241
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Trans done. Pick it up tomorrow. He got the parts from the local BMW dealer, took about 4 business days (OK, a week) to get them. Resealed, ready to go.

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 Posted: 04-01-2016 01:06 am
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Bfitz241
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Got the transmission back. Going to use 75W-90 synthetic. Either Mobil 1 or Valvoline. Hopefully will be able to use it by summer.

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 Posted: 04-01-2016 01:16 am
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Screenplay
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I noticed in your previous post that the trans shop got parts from the local BMW dealer. I'm assuming this is a 5 speed - is that so? I've heard parts are near unobtanium for these transmissions. What BMW dealer is this?

Clinton

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 Posted: 04-01-2016 01:32 am
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Bfitz241
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Yes, the shop got the parts from BMW. They had to order them from Germany but everything was available. I wasn't on top of the trans shop but I'd say 6 or 7 business days and he had all the parts. The dealer he dealt with was Hassel BMW in Freeport NY. He got all the part numbers from Delta and called BMW with them. He even gave me back the old synchros and reverse slider. There actually wasn't anything wrong with the synchros, so I'm keeping them as spares. And the slider is usable, I just opted to change it, and all the seals and bearings. I'll find the receipt and send you the part numbers if you like.

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 Posted: 04-01-2016 01:39 am
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Screenplay
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That would be great. I'd rather deal with the transmission sooner than later if there is a good source for parts. Feel free to pm the information to me; I look forward to it.

Thanks,
Clinton

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 Posted: 04-01-2016 01:43 am
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Bfitz241
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sure...I'll look now...stand by

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 Posted: 04-01-2016 02:00 am
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Bfitz241
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msg sent

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 Posted: 04-17-2016 12:14 am
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Bfitz241
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Took a look under the front suspension today...the suspension bushings are crumbling like shredded wheat. All of them. I'm not emotionally prepared for this. Calling Delta Monday.

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 Posted: 05-01-2016 12:17 am
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Bfitz241
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Tried to replace the rear main seal today. The seal in the holding plate was installed at inconsistent distance, between .135 and .105 from the edge...so that probably contributed to the leak. Found the oil slinger rattling around on the crank...according to the manual I thought it was to be glued to the block...I'll have to come up with a solution because this engine is NOT coming apart...unless it's in a blaze of RPM induced glory...going to change all the coolant hoses while I can reach them from below...then the transmission goes back in and the front suspension gets done.

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