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| Moderated by: Greg Fletcher |
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| Ignition Switch | Rate Topic |
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| Posted: 09-19-2022 06:27 pm |
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1st Post |
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browndog9 Member
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So I am pretty sure I dont' have a problem that has never hapened before, but I cannot find any reference to it in the forum. A little advice would be appreciated. I recently purchesed a 1974 JH5 with 37,000 miles showing on the odometer. I think it is the original milage. The problem is that when I turn the ignition key, some of the time the starter motor will not engage. I found that if you twisted the key removal button , under the steering wheel, the starter would engage normally. Does this sound like a matter of cleaning dirty contacts, replacing starter switch or maybe something else?
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| Posted: 09-20-2022 02:47 pm |
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2nd Post |
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browndog9 Member
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Well once again I found what I was looking for in the forum. I had to figure out what it actually was and then found it. Thanks for looking.
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| Posted: 09-21-2022 02:19 pm |
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3rd Post |
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redracer Member
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browndog; glad you solved your problem, but I am very curious as to what exactly you found out? I'm familiar with the logic box problem and the key switch not making good contact after many years, but I have never heard of "twisting the key lock button" to solve it, as there is nothing that it connects with. looking forward to your answer, bruce
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| Posted: 09-21-2022 02:41 pm |
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4th Post |
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browndog9 Member
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Understand I was not familiar with anything as far as physical connection when it first happened. It was something that just happened. Later I planned to take the car to ABCD Round Rock and I figured I bette solve the problem. I took off rhe steering wheel, not factory, and removed the top soft cover and realized what I was doing made no sense at all. After much thought I think I was somehow affecting the contact that the ground wire made to the male spade connector the lock assembly opposite of the wire bundle. This looks to be attached with a po rivot that is loose. I will see if I can titen or solder joint and see if the problem is solved. Will let you know.
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| Posted: 09-21-2022 03:13 pm |
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5th Post |
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redracer Member
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browndog: that male spade connector that is on a rivet, has nothing to do with starting the engine. I assume(because this was done on almost ALL cars in the late '70s as a major starting problem) that pins #11 & #12 on the 12 pin round connector to the LOGIC box(by your left knee) have been shorted together? bruce
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| Posted: 09-21-2022 03:53 pm |
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6th Post |
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browndog9 Member
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Have not checked , but after reviewing the wiring diagram, the ground supplies the PK wire which goes thru the LU door switch which then goes to the logic box in position # 10. If the door is open you cannot start the car ?. Wiggle the thing seems to be what fixes the problem.
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| Posted: 09-21-2022 07:13 pm |
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7th Post |
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browndog9 Member
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Wrong again. That is the ground that goes to the PB horn wire in the signal stalk. So I pulled the ignition pin connector hoping for mass dirt but of coarse it was clean. The WR male ending was loose in the plastic so that it would not fully engage the tube on the other side of the plastc connector. I corrected the problem and had full engagement but problem still persists. This time I had the delay issue. I remember the Burns/Red Racer dialogue in the forum and checked the logic unit. Sure enough no WR, LGR shorted together, so I made one and killed the old purple wire at the same time. One glass of lemonaid later I went outside and had no problem starting it three times.
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| Posted: 09-21-2022 07:13 pm |
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8th Post |
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browndog9 Member
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Thankyou Bruce and Don and Greg.
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