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 Posted: 11-06-2019 05:08 am
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flatlanderep
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Another pic of distributor

Attachment: C5722CD4-DCB3-413F-B75A-8E4E01ECE24F.jpeg (Downloaded 44 times)

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 Posted: 11-06-2019 02:46 pm
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flatlanderep
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Here is another pic of the Pertronix install. I am putting an O-ring washer on the end of distributor shaft. What size is required. I have 115, 116 and 210.

Attachment: 685FD780-BF0F-4463-91F8-4CBA8E7BD9A8.jpeg (Downloaded 41 times)

Last edited on 11-06-2019 06:25 pm by flatlanderep

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 Posted: 11-06-2019 10:54 pm
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Tom Bradley
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flatlanderep wrote:
is the magnetic ring down far enough on the shaft? Is does not go down any further and aligns with the amplifier.

It looks good to me. This looks like what I remember from installing my Pertronix. If you are getting sparks at all, then the sensor is detecting the magnetic ring. If in doubt, try rotating the magnetic ring while holding the shaft. You should not be able to turn it without turning the whole shaft.

Also, I don’t see how the clockwise or ccwise position can be changed because the mounting plate fits exactly where the 2 holes are located and it does not slide.

The direction of rotation will not change, but as I recall from installing mine, the timing was quite a bit off from what it was with the previous ignition. I don't recall how much, but I suppose it could have been as much as 180 degrees. So I had to do a bunch of rotating the distributor and checking with the timing light to get the timing right.

Also noticed that it appears that a washer is missing at the end of the distributor shaft. See attached pics.

No, there is not supposed to be a washer at that spot. The one you have installed higher up is the one you need.

What I always had trouble with when installing the distributor was getting two posts in the distributor shaft lined up with the corresponding slots inside the housing. I am not sure if you realize (forgive me if I am explaining something you already know), but when you rotate the distributor shaft you will find a spot where the two line up and the distributor slides in further and the shaft cannot be rotated. At this point you have to keep pushing the distributor in while tightening the clamp. You also will have to hold the distributor in place whenever you loosen the clamp to adjust the timing, otherwise it will pop back out and not work correctly. I always have to use a fairly long lever to hold it in whenever I do any adjusting. Always a difficult operation and the main reason I switched to electronic ignition: so I would not have to do that very often.

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 Posted: 11-07-2019 02:50 pm
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flatlanderep
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Last evening, I re-installed distributor with no O ring on end of shaft and it went smoothly as I had marked location when I removed it. Engine was still at TDC. I finally understand how to loosen distributor screw and rotate the body to line up at the beginning edge of the fixed rotor. Tried to start but still no luck. Very frustrated at this point. A friend suggested that I run a jumper wire from battery to coil to determine if the coil has adequate voltage under load.

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 Posted: 11-08-2019 01:47 am
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Tim Murphy
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Apparently, according to some MG forums, the pertronix one can be static timed. Check with the factory to make sure that is accurate. If so, you can set your ignition timing (the time the spark fires) without the engine running. Turn crank to 10 degrees before TDC. Connect a spare spark plug to the number 1 wire and set on engine (as you did before). Turn ignition key to on (run) position (Not the start position). Rotate the distributor body until the spark plug fires. Tighten distributor down at that position. That sets your idle timing to around 10 degrees before TDC. Car should start OK and run OK.

Last edited on 11-08-2019 01:48 am by Tim Murphy

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