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 Posted: 02-24-2017 11:31 pm
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Frank Schwartz
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Does anyone know where this man is in Tennessee. He used to post on this group and then he moved from Atlanta to Tennessee. I really would like to talk to him if anyone knows how to find him.
Thanks,
Frank

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 Posted: 02-27-2017 08:06 pm
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Esprit2
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Judson ocassionally/ rarely posts in the Jensen Healey page on Facebook. You might try pinging him there.

Good luck,
Tim Engel

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 Posted: 02-27-2017 08:11 pm
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Frank Schwartz
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Thank you...so if Judson Manning reads this, I would appreciate hearing fo0rm him off this web site at mfsjr2@comcast.net as I have a technical question I want to ask him.

Thank you
Frank Schwartz

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 Posted: 02-27-2017 08:31 pm
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Esprit2
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What's the question?

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 Posted: 02-27-2017 10:28 pm
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Frank Schwartz
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Bad idle...only 1500 and any slower it slows down and quits. Cam wheels lined up properly along with the crankshaft pointer at zero. Have changed fuel pump and put in regulator..also fuel filter. New coil to match the Pertronics pickup. Tried different carbs and different distributor with no improvement. Seems to have been leaking air under the rear intake manifold where it bolts to the head. Removed manifold and put in another that was true and cleaner..no warps. Used some Hylomar (as recommended by the Brits) and made sure the thing is sealed good with new gasket between manifold and head.. Now no apparent air leaks or that I can find any and it still idles badly and intake manifold vacuum runs about 10 Hg and wiggles..not steady..books says it should be about 18 Hg. Also replaced seals in carburetor shafts... at this point I am stumped.

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 Posted: 02-28-2017 06:34 am
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Frank Schwartz
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Further investigation...it seems that if I spray brake cleaner up under the manifold at the rear, the engine falters...somehow, somewhere there is a leak...different manifold and so on...but, I will take it down again (ugh) the next few days and double check... I think that is where the trouble is...although I have a new gasket and even used a different manifold...can't figure out where the air leak is....
We struggle onwards....

Frank

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 Posted: 02-28-2017 05:21 pm
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Esprit2
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Frank,
Which carbs... Zenith-Stromberg or Dellorto? And if Dellorto, what throat and choke sizes?

From what you describe, it does sound like you're fighting an air leak. There's no simple "They all do that" answer, yours is a fluke, you're just going to have to find the leak and remedy it.

The obvious possibilities are the manifold to head joint, and the soft mount O-rings between the carbs and the manifold. But don't overlook any vacuum hose connections. Make certain hoses are secure, and that they haven't dried out and cracked/ split. If you have disconnected any emissions vacuum hoses, or the distributor vacuum retard hose, make certain you have plugged the vacuum port spigot.

When you spray the brake cleaner up under the rear carb, are you aiming it more at the manifold to head joint, or at the carb soft mounts? Or just spraying for effect, everywhere? Use the slender red tube wand, and be very specific about where you aim it.

At the manifold to head, make certain the gasket didn't get folded over or torn. A light smear of Hylomar on 'both' sides of the gasket is a good thing.

The soft mounts can leak in several ways. It's necessary to manage a number of loose parts during installation, and gravity is not your friend. If one of the O-rings slipped out of position during installation, that could produce a significant air leak. It's normal procedure to oil O-rings, but I've found that a light smear of Hylomar helps hold the O-rings in place during installation, and helps promote a secure seal. Hylomar never sets up hard, so it won't impair the O-rings ability to move and flex with the soft mount long term.

Even if you get all the soft mount parts installed without displacing any, then over-tightening the joints can either crush the O-rings, or cause them to squirt out of the joint. Either case can cause an air leak. It's critical that the soft mount joint NOT be tightened down hard... metal to metal. It's important to use the springs between the nuts and carb flange... either the rubber grommet type, or the steel coil spring "Thackeray Washer" type. Then tighten the nuts evenly until there is a uniform 0.040" (1 mm) gap on either side of the soft mount's central plate... ie, between the manifold and the soft mount, and between the soft mount and the carb flange.

Hylomar comes in a number of 'flavors', and the best one for this job is Hylomar Advanced Formula. In some markets, it's called Hylomar Solvent Free. It's slow to set-up, so it spreads easily and provides ample working time. The version sold in North America by Permatex is a re-brand of Hylomar Racing Formula. Think fast pit stops. It sets up very quickly and is aggressively tacky. That makes it a royal pain to spread, and it doesn't provide enough time to assemble the soft mounts & carbs. In North America, you can get 'Advanced Formula' on Amazon, from Pegasus Racing, or from Valco Cinncinati... http://www.valco-cp.com/hylomar.htm Valco calls it "Hylomar Solvent Free" and/or "Hylomar Blue, Medium". They also have an aerosol Hylomar, but I've not tried it.

Good luck, and Regards,
Tim Engel

Last edited on 02-28-2017 09:54 pm by Esprit2

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