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 Posted: 12-19-2020 05:51 pm
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Jagwire64
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Turn indicators were dropping out with the gauge cluster...traced the problem to a bad connection at the fuse block.

Removed the fuse block and found that several other wires were missing at their connections.

The second fuse only has the green wire side connected...the white wire connection is missing. None of my "idiot lights" have ever come on, however the stop light and reverse lights do work.

The heater is also on the 2nd fuse...does the car have an electric heater? (My blower fan works, but is very squeaky and on the way out). Haven't really driven with the heat on to test it, but would hope too soon as it is now frigid.

My thought is I should jump the white from the no 1 fuse to the no 2 white side?

Not sure what the PO did to bypass the fuse...I don't see any loose wires?

Any advice. Thanks. Happy Christmas All!

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 Posted: 12-19-2020 06:11 pm
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redracer
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the 2nd/middle fuse does not have a white wire to it; it gets its power from the bottom blade of #1/top fuse holder which is connected to the top holder of the #2 fuse.

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 Posted: 12-19-2020 07:00 pm
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Jagwire64
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Thanks for that Bruce...Looking closer i see the metal from the no 1 blade connecting to the no 2.

The bottom blade of no 2 has an empty wire crimp. The top blade of no 3 also has an empty wire. they look crimped.

are these normally empty? Just curious if I should be looking for some unfused connections.

I did find a thick green wire connected to a thick white wire in the bundle in footwell running through the bulkhead.

It has a heavy black rubber butt connection...looks old and i thought factory installed. Now these empty fuse terminals have me wondering.

It isn't a modern butt connection that i have ever seen.

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 Posted: 12-19-2020 08:28 pm
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redracer
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you got me on that one; the solid white wire(all British cars) is unfused, going to a fuse from the ignition. All green wires are fused going to wherever.
The wiring diagram most people think is for a '74, is actually '73, as it shows a solid white wire going to the fuel pump, whereas the later harnesses had a solid green wire going to the fuel pump.
The bottom/#3 fuse is for all purple wire connections that are constant 12V even when the ignition is off(think cigarette lighter,clock, etc)

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 Posted: 12-19-2020 08:35 pm
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Jagwire64
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Thanks...that is good information to know. I am back on the road (for now). The next problem is the blower motor. I will wait until next year to do that. Looks like a whole mess of fun.

Merry Christmas.

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 Posted: 12-19-2020 09:07 pm
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redracer
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The blower motor may just be slightly stuck from lack of use; stick a coat hanger wire through the mesh grill on the front(under the hood) to engage one of the blades: then put the FAN switch on(assuming it's not broken or has come apart, a common problem when someone tries to pull it out from the front instead of pushing it out from the bac--same with the LIGHT switch). This may free it up so you don't have to take out the dash--yeah , a "real mess" as you said

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