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Oil cooler hose replacement  Rate Topic 
 Posted: 05-01-2020 12:25 am
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1st Post

Joined: 01-25-2013
Location: Stanwood, Washington USA
Posts: 10
I ordered new hoses from Delta. Just looking for the experiences from others about the best way to change them (without doing something stupid). I found bits and pieces in the forum about oil cooler hoses, but no information about changing them. What size are the fittings, use a crowfoot, etc? Any prior experience is appreciated. Thanks.

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 Posted: 05-01-2020 05:04 am
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2nd Post
Tom Bradley

Joined: 07-15-2013
Posts: 198
It has been a number of years since I replaced mine, but I do not remember having to buy any special tools. I do remember that it was a lot of work to thread the hoses through the passageway to the front of the car. It also took a lot of torque to get the couplings tightened to where they would not leak. This was not difficult at the oil pump end, but was pretty painful at the oil cooler end. I initially also tried to replace the stock oil cooler with an aluminum version, but did not have any luck with that: I could not figure out any way to get a brace or wrench on the cooler itself outside of the mounting screws and the aluminum was too flimsy for me to tighten the couplings enough to keep it from leaking without bending the entire oil cooler. So I ended up reusing the original oil cooler, which was much sturdier, and that has worked OK. (I have never had any cooling problem with my engine, so going to an aluminum cooler was more of a whim than something that was needed). The hoses I bought from Delta only lasted a little over a year before one of them started leaking where the hose connects to the right angle connector going to the oil cooler. I ended up replacing the pair with ones from JHPS and they have been lasting OK. Hopefully yours will last longer. But be careful not to flex where the hose joins to the connectors any more than necessary. This may be a weak point in the assembly. Good luck.

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 Posted: 05-01-2020 12:09 pm
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3rd Post

Joined: 09-17-2007
Location: San Francisco, California USA
Posts: 221
I just did this last week. The stock cooler uses 5/8" BST fittings and they leak, it's just not a good design really. I ended up replacing the entire system with a Mocal Sandwhich plate (also with a thermostat which is great for colder climates) and replaced the stock cooler with a mocal unit of the same size, in alumminum.

I also replaced all the fittings with -10 AN fittings in aluminum as well, being careful to order the right cooler and the right sandwhich plate with the -10 AN fittings already installed. The result is a much lighter, more robust system with a thermostat. I also plumbed in an accusump.

As far as the stock system is concerned, they will always end up leaking. They made the hoses a little too short, so they end up leaking around until small leaks inevitably form.

My install tips:

1) Try and get the sandwhich plate in the position that puts the LEAST amount of stress on the lines.
2) Tighten the 5/8" adapter fittings on the sandwich plate using some aviation gasket sealant #3. It works great to stop leaks coming from the plate to the adapters
3) Don't over tighten the fittings. Get them to a decent firm feeling with a hand wrench and see if they weep. Study the 45 degree mating surfaces on the oil cooler body and make sure they are clean.
4) If the new hoses won't go into a good position or are too curved do not be afraid to use a blow dryer or head gun to mold them into a good position
5) Never leave the two grommets in place on the body. Getting the fittings through the grommets while they are mounted to the wall is impossible. Remove the grommets, clean them thoroughly, and then apply a little clean oil to them. Work them up and over the hose ends and then install the hoses. Then work the grommet into the body by hand, careful to take time. These grommets are pretty durable rubber and you can use a small screw driver to gently push the lips into the hole in the body and work them gradually into place. Sometimes rotating them into place helps.

If you wanted to go the more modern -10an route it cost me around $190 for all the new components, I can make a list with part numbers.

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