|View single post by discogodfather|
|Posted: 05-01-2020 12:09 pm||
|I just did this last week. The stock cooler uses 5/8" BST fittings and they leak, it's just not a good design really. I ended up replacing the entire system with a Mocal Sandwhich plate (also with a thermostat which is great for colder climates) and replaced the stock cooler with a mocal unit of the same size, in alumminum.
I also replaced all the fittings with -10 AN fittings in aluminum as well, being careful to order the right cooler and the right sandwhich plate with the -10 AN fittings already installed. The result is a much lighter, more robust system with a thermostat. I also plumbed in an accusump.
As far as the stock system is concerned, they will always end up leaking. They made the hoses a little too short, so they end up leaking around until small leaks inevitably form.
My install tips:
1) Try and get the sandwhich plate in the position that puts the LEAST amount of stress on the lines.
2) Tighten the 5/8" adapter fittings on the sandwich plate using some aviation gasket sealant #3. It works great to stop leaks coming from the plate to the adapters
3) Don't over tighten the fittings. Get them to a decent firm feeling with a hand wrench and see if they weep. Study the 45 degree mating surfaces on the oil cooler body and make sure they are clean.
4) If the new hoses won't go into a good position or are too curved do not be afraid to use a blow dryer or head gun to mold them into a good position
5) Never leave the two grommets in place on the body. Getting the fittings through the grommets while they are mounted to the wall is impossible. Remove the grommets, clean them thoroughly, and then apply a little clean oil to them. Work them up and over the hose ends and then install the hoses. Then work the grommet into the body by hand, careful to take time. These grommets are pretty durable rubber and you can use a small screw driver to gently push the lips into the hole in the body and work them gradually into place. Sometimes rotating them into place helps.
If you wanted to go the more modern -10an route it cost me around $190 for all the new components, I can make a list with part numbers.