View single post by Esprit2
 Posted: 02-05-2018 09:25 pm
PM Quote Reply Full Topic


Joined: 05-01-2005
Location: Minneapolis, Minnesota USA
Posts: 559
Rubber seals and O-rings don't age well in static storage. If it has been 23 years since your car was last used, then plan on most of the seals being toast. Take the opportunity of having the engine out to replace them all, or as many as you can. Don't wait until after the engine is back in the car for them to start leaking, because they probably will.

The following is also covered in another current thread, but it's worth repeating. Also see the "Transmission Leaks 4 Speed 13556" thread.

The flywheel bolts should have Loctite AV (or 275/ 277). Apply it to the threaded holes in the crank flange (a Q-Tip swab helps), then mount the flywheel and run the bolts in. Torque to spec.

If you have a Mk II engine with the rear lip seal, then the housing bolt threads need sealant... not threadlocker. Something like Permatex PST Thread Sealant.

Both the flywheel and seal housing bolts use through holes into the oily engine interior. With clean, dry threads, oil can wick through the threads and cause an oil leak inside the bell housing.

It's a similar situation with the front seal housing, except the holes 'can' (not always) break into the water jacket, and anti-freeze can wick out past the threads. Use thread sealant, not threadlocker.

Tim Engel

Last edited on 02-09-2018 04:37 pm by Esprit2