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| Ignition | Rate Topic |
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| Posted: 06-28-2006 09:14 pm |
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1st Post |
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Timothy Slovak Member
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Okay, After years of trial and error I had my Jensen Healey engine running very nicely. Not having satisfied my tinkering needs, I decided to change my engine wiring harness and install a rebuilt distributor. I installed the engine harness first and engine started and ran well. I then proceeded to install the rebuilt distributor. Now the engine won't start. Symptoms 1. Electrical current is going to the coil from the battery and electrical current is going from the coil to the distributor and point set. This is confirmed with voltmeter. 2. The Distributor housing is "hot" electrified. I don't think that's a good thing. I checked the leads inside the distributor to ensure they are in proper position and properly isolated/insulated so as not to short out. I have diagrams and several very nice pictures of the proper wiring arrangement for the distributor, so I'm certain I got this correct. 3. No spark detected coming from the coil to the distributor cap. I'm starting to suspect that there is something amiss with the the engine harness. I have a JH wiring schematic, and based on it I think the harness is installed properly. Does anybody have a schematic/drawing of a JH engine harness that shows correct installation in greater detail. I need to get this car running so my wife will stop smirking at me over dinner. "Did you get it running yet Tim?" Thanks for your expertise.
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| Posted: 06-29-2006 12:01 am |
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2nd Post |
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Mark Rosenbaum Member 
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Since you had the engine running with the new harness and the old distributor, it seems quite unlikely that the harness is your problem. That leaves the new distributor. If I understand you correctly, the case of the distributor is at some positive voltage? If so, the engine cannot possibly run. First, check for a dirty, corroded, defective, or missing ground strap between engine and chassis. This strap should be low on the righthand side of the engine. Remove any rust or corrosion from all hardware and all contact surfaces. If that seems good, check the body of the distributor for paint, powder coating, or any other sort of insulating film on the part that is inserted into the engine's auxiliary housing. You must have bare metal to bare metal contact here. If that seems good, then check inside the distributor for poor electrical contact between the points fixed arm and carrier plate, carrier plate and base plate, and/or base plate and distributor housing. Again, you must have bare metal to bare metal contact everywhere. The problem shouldn't be too difficult to fix once you locate it.
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| Posted: 06-29-2006 01:51 am |
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3rd Post |
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Timothy Slovak Member
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Mark, Thank you for the quick reply and your thoughts. I will check the engine grounding tonight and scrutinize the distributor closer when I get home.
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| Posted: 06-29-2006 02:21 pm |
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4th Post |
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Judson Manning Member 
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I agree with Mark's suggestions. BTW: get used to the wife making such remarks, it's not going to end any time soon. In my case: One ex-fianace, countless girlfriends, and one (current) wife. As a general rule, whenever you do repair work of this nature, don't try to start the car without turning it over by hand first. I've posted the details elsewhere, but the idea is to turn the engine over by hand with a spark plug or two visible so you can see when it fires and verify timing. Dumb question: Did you set the point gap? How about taking a VOM and spinning the distributor to see connection is broken 4 times per revolution? Is the distributor actually engaging the oil-pump shaft and turning with the engine? good luck
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| Posted: 06-29-2006 11:42 pm |
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5th Post |
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Timothy Slovak Member
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Judson, Thank you for your insights. Hopefully this weekend I'll get it figured out. Aloha, Tim
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| Posted: 07-11-2006 02:07 am |
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6th Post |
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Timothy Slovak Member
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Success, yes it was a grounding problem. I took the time to wire brush the ground wire fittings and fasteners and that did the trick. She started right up Thanks Mark and Judson - great advice.
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