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Placement of "J" badges  Rating:  Rating
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 Posted: 05-09-2006 01:34 am
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Lawrence Tod
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Evening Gentlemen

Well I had a wonderful Saturday you would all apreciate . I had the day off work, my kids both had early morning extra curricular events and my wife was not expecting to bring them back until after 5 pm. So , I :

1)installed my front side marker assemblies. Many Thanks to Dan Collier
I wouldn't have been able to install them without Dan as he sent them to me here in Grenada
2)installed my Jensen GT style bonnet prop. Many thanks to ColinW59 ,no matter how often I read those instructions they never made any sence until I saw Collins photos on the JH Photo Gallery
3)installed my replacement wing mirrors. Many thanks to Mark Rosenbloom
For the past two years I could never see anything out of the Passenger side mirror unless I leaned over so far I was nearly in the passenger seat.

This Club is absolutely the best, I am always so awed by how everbody helps each other out, I just wish I could help somebody else out of a Jensen problem before I asked for more help..but here it comes all the same.


So has anybody got any idea how those "j " Badges (Emblems) attach, I mean obviously they pass through the holes in the body past the door, before the wheel arch (I don't actually have any holes so placement of the holes will be the first issue to tackle), secondly where does on pass his hand to tighten the two fasters that hold the "j" badges on. Actually if I could find these openings I would be able to drill the holes out from the inside.

I have looked at various photos (mostly cover shots from the JHPS newsletter) ,and with the doors open while I'm sitting on the ground I poke a flashlight around at the kick panels but I cannot for the life of me see a hole to say push a nut driver through.

Suggestions?, Photos? Advice?

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 Posted: 05-09-2006 03:08 am
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Jim Ketcham
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Once you locate the holes, the J badge mounts via a "push fix", p/n 67160.  I obtained my last ones from Delta.  Quite simply, a push fix is a cylindrical soft plastic tube with a lip that is inserted in the hole to provide a tight fit for the badge post.  There is no need to access the back of the panel when using a push fix.

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 Posted: 05-09-2006 04:05 am
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Lawrence Tod
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Thanks Jim that means I can stop looking inside the cars kick panels.
So do you know the measurements for the holes?
Or is their any place I might be able to see where the body filler would have pushed through the holes when the P.O. allowed them to be filled?

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 Posted: 05-09-2006 01:49 pm
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John Finch
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If you remove the rock guards that are located in the front wheel wells, to the rear of the tire you might be able to see where the mounting holes are/used to be. I just had mine off last night to check for rust and remove rocks and dirt and noticed the two mounting pins for the badges. Good luck John

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 Posted: 05-09-2006 02:37 pm
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colinw59
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Have you thought about using double sided tape? I own a body shop and we'll usually use tape rather than put holes in a panel. The stuff that's around now is very strong and has great holding power. We use 3M's 1/4" or 1/2" tape part #06377 & #06386. I used these tapes to secure the trunk and quarter trim and the exterior pencil trim at the top of the doors along with a clip at each end. Tape also circumvents access to the rear of the panel if a clip or nut is needed.

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 Posted: 05-09-2006 04:09 pm
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Lawrence Tod
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Thanks for the info Jim.

So the fastener is sort of like a rawl plug for cars ?
Well I guess I'll Just have to bite the bullet and drill some more holes in 11211.
Would you be willing to offer up your measurements as to exactly where your holes are?

Thanks again

Lawrence

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 Posted: 05-09-2006 04:24 pm
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Lawrence Tod
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Thank You John

I'll give that a try, I think I will use a combination of everybodies advice.
I think I will remove the rock guards you mentioned and see if I can see any body filler coming through any old holes. When you removed your dirt and rocks did you do it by hand or with a Vacuum?
I'm wondering if I will be able to get my hand through the opening with the guard removed? Failing that I'll hope a member will send me some dimensions for locating the wholes. I will likely go the adhesive tape route as Colin 59 is recomending if I cannot locate by eye the original holes or surmise their location through measurement

Thanks again

Lawrence

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 Posted: 05-09-2006 04:33 pm
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Lawrence Tod
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Thanks for advice Colin

So this stuff is super sticky right?
Those "J" badges wee kinda dear and I'm really quite intimidated at the thought of loosing one or both of them from heat or vibration or theft. Probably least of all theft.
I don't usually leave 11211 unattended very long but the local urchins have a tendency to swipe the chrome valve caps off my wheels to put on their bikes. I don't want to see a Jensen badge in some kids Schwinn. ;<)

Thanks Colin

Lawrence

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 Posted: 05-09-2006 04:38 pm
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John Finch
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IIRC there are 5 phillips head screws to remove then you have to work the rock guard out. I had the tires off for better access. I used a putty knife to loosen hardened dirt mostly on the floor area and a vacuum to remove it. I don't think my arms would have reached to the badge area and it gets pretty tight in there anyway. I did spray undercoating inside "as long as I was there" before reassembly. I also sealed the rock guard edges with silicone and resprayed undercoating on the outside of the rock guards.

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 Posted: 05-09-2006 04:51 pm
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Lawrence Tod
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Thanks John

All good advice .
Actually sounds like a good project for next saturday if time allows. I will try and weedle my hand in there but it doesn't sound like I'll have much luck.
I have been considering getting a smaller diameter steering wheel from D.M.S. as everything on my body seems to be getting larger of late ,but my hands seem to be expanding at the slowest rate, maybe there is still a chance!

Lawrence

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 Posted: 05-09-2006 05:06 pm
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John Finch
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I replaced the stock steering wheel with a 13.5" and really like it. I never did drive my car with the original but based on conversations and internet forums etc I decided to make the switch for more leg room. Plus I just liked the look of the 3 spoke wooden wheel. FYI a pix of it is posted on the JHP Photo Gallery under Minnesota.

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