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| Lug nut torque | Rate Topic |
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| Posted: 05-03-2006 07:13 pm |
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1st Post |
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upstate mike Member
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Hi, as I enter my first full summer of JH ownership I've been taking care of various issues my car had when purchased. The book says 51 ft/lbs for lug nut torque. Is this what everyone is using or should it be higher. I understand the lug nuts seem to be an alloy but this is lower than anything I've ever used to keep wheels on a car. Also should there be any movement in the steering rack. The outer tie rod is tight and the shop manual seems to inducate that the inner ball joint is spring loaded allowing for some movement when you check the front end for play. Thanks in advance, Mike K
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| Posted: 05-04-2006 03:33 am |
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2nd Post |
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Mark Rosenbaum Member 
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For the lug nuts, 51 ft-lb dry is correct. Stock wheel studs are 7/16" with 20 threads per inch, and the generally accepted maximum torque for this size stud is 55 ft-lb dry or 40 ft-lb lubricated. For the steering rack, the springs are present to compensate for wear at the inner ends of the tie rods, which are steel balls in hard nylon cups. Per section E11 paragraph 8 of the shop manual, there should be no play in these joints.
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| Posted: 05-04-2006 02:25 pm |
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3rd Post |
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upstate mike Member
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Mark, I've read that section to and I guess my confusion is the lines above it saying when you place pressure in line with the spring it is possible to move it. So I guess the proper question should be if you place your hands at 3 oclock and 9 oclock on the front tire and rock it should there be any movement? And if there is how much? I'm just trying to make sure if I buy a rebuilt rack from delta I'm not going to find the same amount of movement. Thanks again, Mike K.
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| Posted: 05-04-2006 04:19 pm |
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4th Post |
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Mark Rosenbaum Member
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The note below E11 para 8 isn't as well written as it might be. What they are concerned about is any condition that results in clearance between the ball and nylon cup when no force is applied. Yes, if force is applied to the inner tie rod joint, the spring will compress and the parts will move. But if the parts move back into place and there is no residual clearance when the force is removed, that is normal and not a defect. Before condemning a steering rack, try a forced separation of the inner joint's ball and cup, followed by flushing the area with a copious amount of aerosol carburetor cleaner to completely remove all grime and debris. Work the rack back and forth from limit to limit a couple of times and flush out any additional crud that may appear, then evaluate the rack's condition. For a quick test of the whole steering system, what I suggest is jacking up the front of the car until both front wheels are off the ground, then turning the steering wheel back and forth. You should see very little movement of the steering wheel before the front tires start to move. If there's significant slack, then work downward from the steering wheel to the tie rod ends until you find a problem. Correct the problem, then repeat the test.
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