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| Moderated by: Greg Fletcher | Page:   1 2 |
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| Front suspension | Rate Topic |
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| Posted: 01-17-2010 09:22 pm |
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21st Post |
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rossjfox Member
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Thanks! The shells actually came out quite easily. I have a shop press and using a piece of pipe on one side and an appropriately sized socket on the other, they slipped right out. The superpro bushings went in easily by hand. Ross
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| Posted: 01-21-2010 03:31 am |
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22nd Post |
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SpeedyMitch Member 
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SportsRodder wrote: 6. Remove the the upper and lower shock bolts and the three nuts holding the shock mount. Leave the bolts locating the strut in place. Any hints on getting the upper shock bolt out of the shock? I can spin the bolt but it just won't come out. I have tried some penetrating oil and a few 'taps' with a BFH but can't seem to get it to budge. I suspect it is rusted to the sleeve inside the shock bushing. Other than some additional muscle with the BFH does anybody have any suggestions? Thanks in advance, Mitch
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| Posted: 01-21-2010 05:20 am |
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23rd Post |
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subwoofer Member
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The BFH may not get you anywhere if it is rusted solid. Cut the bolt. -- Joachim Last edited on 01-21-2010 05:20 am by subwoofer |
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| Posted: 04-15-2013 09:27 pm |
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24th Post |
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pearst Member
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SportsRodder wrote:I have had my front suspension apart several times. It is more dificult than the rear but doable. Questions: 1. In step 6 (the first step 6), is the "Strut" the same as the "Control Arm" (#50) in the illustration attached? 2. In Step 7, which number is the attached illustration is the "upper control arm mounting bolt"? Attachment: Jensen Suspension Front.JPG (Downloaded 121 times)
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| Posted: 04-15-2013 09:44 pm |
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25th Post |
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pearst Member
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Bigger pic. 115k is not enough..... If you have a shop manual, its section E, page 13. Attachment: Jensen Suspension Front.JPG (Downloaded 124 times)
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| Posted: 04-17-2013 04:01 pm |
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26th Post |
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Art DeKneef Member
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To answer your questions. 1. Yes. The strut is #50 in the picture. The round arm attaches to the lower control arm with two bolts. Don't remove these bolts. 2. The number isn't visible in your diagrams but it is the long bolt at the top that goes through one end of the upper control arm, then the cross member and then the other end of the control arm. Since this is an old thread are you trying to remove the spring from the front suspension?
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| Posted: 04-18-2013 01:45 pm |
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27th Post |
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pearst Member
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Art DeKneef wrote: To answer your questions. Thanks for the help. 1. So, as far as I can tell, I need to undo the bolts connecting the strut to the lower control arm since these bolts also attache to the lower shock mount, in order to get the shock out. I have already undone these bolts but have not yet taken out the 3rd shock mount bolt in the back to take the shock out. I was planning on doing that next...... Am I missing something? How can I get the shock out if I don't undo these bolts? What is the harm in undoing these bolts for the strut? 2. Okay I see it. It's the long bolt that attached the two ends of the upper control arm. Yes, I am trying to remove the spring. Replacing all bushings...
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| Posted: 04-19-2013 01:03 am |
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28th Post |
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Art DeKneef Member
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If you are replacing all the bushings then removing the bolts won't matter. The car will need to be realigned. By leaving the bolts in and not disturbing the control arm you might be able to get by without having to do a realignment. Just removing the 3 nuts holding the lower brackets in place you should be able to slide the shock and brackets down and out. It's a convoluted process.
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| Posted: 04-20-2013 06:33 pm |
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29th Post |
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pearst Member
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SUCCESS!! Thanks Guys!! Attachment: photo-6.JPG (Downloaded 59 times)
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| Posted: 04-20-2013 11:06 pm |
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30th Post |
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pearst Member
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Now what??? Passenger side apart successfully. On the driver side, the upper control arm bolt will not clear the exhaust manifold. Is this in backwards? Sure would make a lot more sense if it was in the other way. Do I need to pop off the lower ball joint with a pickle fork? Attachment: photo-7.JPG (Downloaded 53 times) Last edited on 04-20-2013 11:11 pm by pearst |
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| Posted: 04-22-2013 02:41 am |
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31st Post |
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Art DeKneef Member
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It's dark here now so I can't go and check one of my cars. This might work to give you enough clearance. What if you loosen the motor mount on that side and then try jacking up the engine a little. With any luck the engine with manifold will rise leaving you with enough room to work.
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| Posted: 04-27-2013 09:04 pm |
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32nd Post |
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pearst Member
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Greg Fletcher to the rescue! Greg sent me a very helpful email I wish to share: That bolt only comes out one way, even cutting it won't help. I do have replacements if you need them, they sometimes get so rusty that new ones are required. You need to drop the front sub frame- If you've never done it, it sounds dreadful, but it's actually very easy. You'll need to jack up the car, put jack stands under the frame rails. Jack up the engine to take off the weight (jack from sump with an approx 1/2x8x8 inch pine wood piece between it and the jack to disperse the weight. Undo bolts at #34 right and left side (see diagram below) in the engine compartment. Undo bolts at #38 on the suspension outrigger and it drops right down. Before you do this you need to jack up (it helps to have two jacks at this point, an inexpensive one will do fine) each lower control arm a bit, unbolt the lower ball joint and carefully/slowly lower the arm with jack to uncompress the road spring. It's fiddly work, but otherwise a piece of cake, you don't need a spring compressor to get them in or out.
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| Posted: 04-27-2013 09:07 pm |
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33rd Post |
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pearst Member
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Well now that I have obtained good access to that blasted bolt, all I managed to do was bend it. That sucker is really rusted solid in there. Going to drop out the entire cross member. Attachment: image.jpg (Downloaded 22 times)
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