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 Posted: 03-22-2006 01:58 pm
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Jay
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Joined: 08-05-2005
Location: Canton, Ohio USA
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I'm in the process of sanding down my rear fender. I would like to remove the short vertical stainless trim that is attached to the rear edge of the right-rear fender. I've taken out the one small screw at the top but don't see any other fasteners. Looking through the opening inside the trunk (access to the side marker light), I do not see any nuts, like those on the trim that is attached to the trunk lid. Does anyone have any advise on how to remove this trim without distortion?
 Do you think that it may have been reattached by some other means? I thought it might slide upward after I removed the screw, but it doesn't want to budge. Thanks!

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 Posted: 03-22-2006 04:17 pm
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Dan Collier
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It's been more than twenty years since I painted my car but, my horrible memory tells me there's  small plate with studs held on by nuts. I believe you have to reach in between the trunk and rear fender panel to get to them.  


Dan Collier
JH74 14381 2.2L
Jensen-Healey Preservation Photo Gallery

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 Posted: 03-22-2006 04:20 pm
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Mark Rosenbaum
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If memory serves, each trim piece should have several threaded studs that protrude through the rear edges of the fender and rear body panel into the space between the rear fenders and the side walls of the trunk.  To gain access, you'd have to remove the rear splash shields and perhaps the round disks in the trunk walls, that give access to the side marker lights.  A good washing would also be in order as this region tends to collect a lot of sticky debris over the years.

Not sure what size these nuts would be.  IIRC, some of the other trim on the JH uses some weird and peculiar non-Whitworth British thread found nowhere else in the entire known universe.

 

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 Posted: 03-22-2006 10:06 pm
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colinw59
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I think that the nuts for these retainers are are 10-24 and they are a tad difficult to get to. They are still available through Delta though. During my restoration of 15851 (still in work) I put on new aluminum quarters. I hate drilling holes for trim/finisher attachments unless I absolutely have to, so instead I used double sided tape for these and the trunk trim. This also meant that I could position both these and the trunk trim, in the optimum position after painting and at final assembly. Optimum not perfect though, as the finisher's curve does not exactly follow the form of the outer edge of the quarter. I also cut off the small ear on the quarter trim, were it screws into the inner edge of the quarter near the trunk. For the stainless pencil finisher used on the top of the doors exterior, I also used double sided tape. Here though I retained two of the OEM push in studs, one at each end of the finisher. 

http://jhppg.com/gallery/74-Jensen-Healey-15851

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 Posted: 03-22-2006 11:56 pm
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John Kimbrough
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Yes, you can get to the nuts after you remove the round access panel and the rear tail light splash panels.  Spray the nuts well with penetrating fluid and when you finally are ready to unscrew the nuts, gently pinch the chrome strip edges together to prevent the chrome strip from spreading and the retained square headed studs from spinning.  John 

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