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George Member
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Help! Anybody have any tricks to getting the lower ball joints out of the suspension arms? I’ve removed the circlips and have pounded on them after applying rust penetrant and I even tried heating the metal, but they won’t budge. I don't have a press, but I guess i could find a shop that does. Thanks for any help |
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Mark Rosenbaum Member 
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As suggested by the attached photo, the ball joints do just press in, but they fit very tightly. If you have a 2- or 3-jaw puller of a suitable size, you can use it, combined with a socket to fit around the threaded shaft and apply force to the body of the joint. Or, as you mentioned, you could pay perhaps $5 or $10 an arm at a shop. Attachment: Ball joint lower 2.jpg (Downloaded 233 times) |
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John Finch Member
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I just used a pickle fork to get mine out. It cam out without much issue. You can get them at most auto stores. I bought a 3 pack kit as I didn't know what size was required. Actually used one of the smaller sizes to remove the tie rod ends. Good luck with your project J ohn |
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George Member
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Thanks guys. A night of soaking and a bit more of solid smack or two or three and they came out. |
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upstate mike Member
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Glad you got them out since I have to do mine. I've looked at the job but is there a reason that the springs have to be compressed to remove the ball joint? My plan was just to remove the caliper, disconect the tie rod end and circlip and then press the ball joint out with a ball joint press. Am I missing something? |
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John Kimbrough Member
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I am thinking of replacing the bushings in my front suspension. Should I replace the ball joints at the same time. The bushings and ball joints have never been replaced, and there is some looseness in the front end I would like to eliminate. Don't know how to determine what is causing the looseness, so maybe replacing all the rubber is in order. Thoughts? Thanks. |
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Judson Manning Member 
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John, In my opinion, it's one of those "while you're at it" kind of things. If you replace the bushings, you have to tear apart the entire suspension to get to them. Also, what good are nice stiff bushings if your BJs and wheel bearings are sloppy? As Winter approaches and good convertible weather becomes scarce, this may be a good time to go ahead and do the entire front suspension. If I were in your position, I'd go ahead and order new BJs, shocks, springs, rotors, bearings, pads, brake lines, and a caliper rebuild kit. A front sway bar and new strut bushings wouldn't be a bad idea either. While it may sound like a lot of work, once you take everything apart to get to the bushings, the rest is pretty easy, and you'll have the peace of mind of having one less thing to worry about next Spring. Judson Last edited on 10-11-2005 12:33 pm by Judson Manning |
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George Member
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I was doing the bushings, so I decided to do the ball joints as well. Didn't mess with the brakes, though. Make sure you take the ball joint nuts all the way off and then put them back on a little bit before you loosen anything else up. Finally got everything apart, next week we'll see if it all goes back together! One other thing - My lower ball joints (from Delta) do not have a grease nipple, or the little bulge that held the nipple as found on the original. Am I missing something? Am I somehow supposed to transfer over the bottom part of the old ball joint? Nevermind. I called Delta, and was told the new lower ball joints are different and don't require grease. Last edited on 10-12-2005 11:28 pm by George |
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John Kimbrough Member
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Thanks for the advice on bushing replacement. Now, about the crossmember outrigger bushing. Is it difficult to replace/can it be replaced, without removing the entire crossmember? None of the threads seem to mention it. Any thoughts??? Thanks, John. |
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Tom Thomson Member
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George We all have heard about joints that require no lubrication. Yeah right! But not to worry cause you can get a hypodermic needle that fits the grease gun. Just stab right thru the rubber boot. I got mine at NAPA. Tom 13753 |
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