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| Rear Crank seal housing | Rate Topic |
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| Posted: 09-19-2023 02:03 pm |
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1st Post |
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redracer Member
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When replacing the rear main crank seal housing back onto the engine, EXTREME care must be used to ensure one of the fingers(usually at 5 or 7 o'clock) do not get in between the two mating surfaces, or leaking engine oil is guaranteed. You could make 2 "long" 6mmx1.0 pitch studs(cut the head off) to align the housing to the engine block or CAREFULLY install the housing while looking up from below to be SURE the fingers/oil slinger has not rotated(very easy to happen) while installing. One picture is a close up of where a finger(7 o'clock) has been sandwiched. Attachment: J-H rear crank seal housing dented from oil slinger small.jpg (Downloaded 35 times)
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| Posted: 09-19-2023 02:04 pm |
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2nd Post |
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redracer Member
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Close up of "dented" surface Attachment: J-H rear crank seal housing dented from oil slinger.jpg2 small.jpg (Downloaded 35 times)
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| Posted: 09-20-2023 08:05 pm |
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3rd Post |
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Pricelessjunk Member 
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Question, 1.) How is the oil slinger held in place?? When I took my rear main seal plate off it was just loose and dangling on the crankshaft. 2.) The current engine in my car does not have an oil slinger... any disadvantage to this? I've put about 4k miles on it since I replaced the rear main seal. Thanks. Tim
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| Posted: 09-20-2023 08:55 pm |
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4th Post |
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redracer Member
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The true '73 engines(rope seal, #2760 & earlier) did not have an oil slinger. The later ones with a rear crank seal housing did and there is a spring clip (about 10-11o'clock)on the slinger that is "supposed" to grab and "slightly" hold it in place. The shop manual suggest silicone, but that does not work very well.Try Permatex #2 around the clip, but again, it does not hold very securely, so you MUST be very careful when installing the rear housing so a "finger" does not get wedged(5-7 o'clock)
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