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| Rear oil seal removal | Rate Topic |
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| Posted: 05-30-2021 05:17 pm |
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1st Post |
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chuckcm14 Member
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1. Does the oil sump need to be removed to replace the rear oil seal? 2. If careful installing the rear housing with the seal is it necessary to use the special installation tool. I had good luck stalling the front seal by removing the adjuster stud and slight rotating the cover as the cover was installed. 3. What bolts in the rear housing/flywheel need to have thread sealant applied. 4. What is best sealant for rear seal housing gasket. No known problems with the clutch and related parts at this time, However I do not know the condition. I have new parts pressure plate, clutch, throughout bearing, pilot bearing etc. At this time I am hoping the flywheel is ok.
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| Posted: 05-30-2021 09:20 pm |
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2nd Post |
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redracer Member
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1) No, the sump does not need to be removed 1a) be sure to mark the flywheel position in relation to the crankshaft as it has been balanced that way 2)No, the "special" tool does not need to be used. I used to use my fingers to press it in, but a round homemade wooden press toll could be used. Just be sure to keep it the proper distance from the front flange(the workshop manual has the distance) or the front of the seal will NOT be on the flange for oil sealing. ***VERY IMPORTANT; WHEN INSTALLING THE HOUSING WITH THE SEAL IN IT, MAKE SURE THE "FINGERS" FROM THE OIL SLINGER ARE NOT CAUGHT BETWEEN THE TWO MATING SURFACES--ESPECIALLY THE FINGER AT 5 O'CLOCK. 3)the 6 flywheel bolt MUST have some sealant on them(I use Permatex #2 on the threads) as they go directly into the oil return galley 4)Permatex #2, #3, or #98 are fine for the gasket; DO NOT USE SILICONE 5)the flywheel should be resurfaced at a machine shop
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| Posted: 05-31-2021 11:47 am |
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3rd Post |
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chuckcm14 Member
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Bruce, Thank you for the response and the caution note.
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| Posted: 06-13-2021 01:08 pm |
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4th Post |
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chuckcm14 Member
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JH20152 back on the road again. Removal/installation went smoothly. New clutch kit parts and flywheel resurfaced. I though the oil leak was from being in storage for many years. Turned out the oil seal was not installed in the correct position. Old seal was installed flush with the inner machined surface. Also rebuilt the shift linkage. The isolator was split and caused excessive movement and cushion was missing. During linkage removal I was waiting for the cushion to fallout but it was not there. No wonder the shifting was sloppy.
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| Posted: 06-13-2021 05:21 pm |
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5th Post |
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redracer Member
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Nice going--glad to see you did this so quickly. By the "cushion" , did you mean the rubber piece that goes behind the white nylon half-moon on the shift fork? We always removed that piece because it gave too much play in the clutch travel.
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| Posted: 06-14-2021 01:35 pm |
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6th Post |
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chuckcm14 Member
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I have a good size workshop 30x40 but my neighbor has a large workshop with a two post auto/truck lift which makes it easy. From your message I now know why that pad was missing from the clutch cable and clutch lever and could not purchase a pad. The cushion (packer) I was mentioning is the one that fits inside the shift linkage trunnion to take out clearance between shift linkage arm and the trunnion.
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