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 Posted: 11-17-2020 10:12 pm
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Jagwire64
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Back again. Still trying to understand this car.

Car starts easily when cold with choke. Runs great. Very difficult to start when the engine is warm. I don't use the choke when warm (tried it no help). It would usually take 3 or 4 tries before it starts recently had to wait 30 min before it would start. Once it does, it runs rough for a minute or two then fine.

PO removed the original airbox for foam filters. Also removed the Evap canister.

My thinking is that i am getting to much fuel vapor from the hot engine so it won't fire. I'm installing a new Evap can...and an oil catch can and breather. Trying to match the original venting. PO has the valve cover hose going directly to the crankcase instead of the airbox. With no vent for pressure I assume that cannot be good. Though I am not sure this will solve my problem.

I have also ordered some heat shields for the strombergs.

Any other ideas.

Thanks

Tom

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 Posted: 11-17-2020 11:51 pm
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pokeyjoe
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Sounds like its flooded. Residual fuel pressure getting past the needle and seats, maybe?

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 Posted: 11-18-2020 01:21 pm
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Jagwire64
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That was an issue that I rectified. The carbs have been rebuilt and seem to be operating properly...new fuel pump and pressure regulator.

usually if i flood it ...i put the pedal to the floor and it will start. That doesn't help here.

I acts like its flooded..not sure it is. I did read some about the Lotus 907 having warm start issues due to hot air in the engine bay. I know other people take off the OEM airbox because half the pictures on the web have it removed.

I can't imagine every car is this difficult to start when warm?

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 Posted: 11-18-2020 02:42 pm
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Brett Gibson JH5 20497
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I'm thinking that the positive crankcase ventilation that you mentioned might be a issue, if it's venting back into itself it's actually not venting. A heavy venting engine is best run to a canister or back into the carbs, one that doesn't vent so much, like mine, can be vented under the car. I'd also double check the choke disc's on the front carb to be sure they are not scored and allowing leak by.
Just a couple of thoughts.
Brett.

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 Posted: 11-18-2020 03:29 pm
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Jagwire64
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The choke disc surfaces were a bit pitted. I bought a set of carbs with a cleaner choke surface, maybe I will try that next.

What is the general warm start procedure? No choke, try starter....if no start... gas pedal to floor try starter? From owners manual.

Last edited on 11-18-2020 03:37 pm by Jagwire64

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 Posted: 11-18-2020 05:54 pm
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noomg
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Jag,

There's no warm start procedure other than a twist of the ignition key. When I hear hot start problems I think vapor lock. When you shut off the motor the temp in the engine compartment goes up before it starts to cool. If you've got an unprotected fuel line the fuel can vaporize making a hot start difficult.

When fuel in the line vaporizes(before it's supposed to)it raises fuel line pressure making it harder for the fuel pump to supply gas to the carbs.

When I first got my '67 El Camino it had hot start problems, I insulated the incoming fuel and fuel pump, I've had no hot start problems since.

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 Posted: 11-18-2020 06:08 pm
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Jagwire64
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Vapor lock is my thinking...The fuel line isn't insulated. The steel line from the tank and coming up from under the car is not protected (i assumed they were all that way from factory) it is rubber line just before the carbs.

Will try insulating that line. Thanks

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 Posted: 11-18-2020 07:28 pm
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Brett Gibson JH5 20497
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For my 2 cents, I've seen a ton of Healey's and vapor lock on one would be a stretch.... can't hurt to try it though.
If your confident in the carb re-build and adjustment, I would look at the electrical connections and grounds, heat can also bring on lose connections once the wires warm up and flex easier. I'm assuming that your ignition system is spot on.
Brett
PS: Float bowl level to high ???

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 Posted: 11-19-2020 05:40 pm
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noomg
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Brett,

I agree, while Jensen-Healeys had many problems vapor lock didn't seem to be one of them. However the car is 45+ years old and who knows what changes POs might have made which could have had a negative effect.

Insulating the fuel line is an inexpensive and easy fix, if it doesn't work you've at least eliminated one possibility. I've always been a big fan of when you're not sure what to do, do the easy things first.

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 Posted: 11-19-2020 07:15 pm
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Jagwire64
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The ignition system seems to be set up correctly...it is a pertronix elec.

I need to check the ignition wires.

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 Posted: 11-20-2020 02:54 am
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redracer
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Pertronix:: that COULD be the problem. Before you wrap the fuel lines, which I have NEVER seen necessary, put a set of points, condenser, and low tension lead back in and go from there.
It may also be possible that your fuel mixture may be too rich, so an old CO meter would be VERY useful(I set the CO at 4-5% at 3000ropm, the "cruising" point). Newer spark plugs can clean up carbon rich mixtures, unlike the old plugs that came in out cars

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 Posted: 11-20-2020 07:19 am
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subwoofer
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Is it an Ignitor 2? And you are running the original tach and have connected the Pertronix per the instructions? Does it ever die while idling, for no apparent reason?

Then you are experiencing the undervoltage lockout feature on the Pertronix. Run the red wire on the Pertronix straight to the battery through a relay and your woes will magically disappear...

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 Posted: 11-20-2020 08:53 pm
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subwoofer
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All you need for quick confirmation is a piece of wire to temporarily connect coil and battery positives when it is acting up. Another indication is if it always starts the moment you let go of the key when cranking.

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 Posted: 11-23-2020 07:19 pm
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Jagwire64
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It is igniter 2...with the resistor i have 3 ohms. Never had it die at idle. it was only starting the moment i let go of the key when warm. No sound but the starter and when i let go it would catch (if it started at all)

Did finally get the oil vent/catch can and evap can all plumbed and installed. Problem appears to have been solved.

Got it up to temp...waited 30 min and it started with no trouble...didn't touch the accelerator or choke. drove it a bit and tried again at 5 and 10 min after shut off. starts like magic now. I can hear it firing before i let off the starter.

Too soon to know for certain but the outlook is good. Will check the pertronix if the trouble returns.

Thanks for all the help.

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 Posted: 11-23-2020 07:42 pm
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subwoofer
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My bet is still on the Pertronix, I spent a LOT of time fighting the same problem. But I have a Lucas Sport Coil and no resistor for hotter spark, so that may have made it worse.

--
Joachim

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