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pokeyjoe
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I haven't had the chance to drive the car much since I got it. It pretty much ran like crap and I knew I had to rebuild the carbs. I also had to replace the battery and the evap canister was not re-installed. I wanted to get some fresh gas in the tank, but didn't make it out of the driveway. I had fuel coming out of both carbs. It seems odd that it was both carbs.

I'm thinking that I may have a fuel pressure problem.



Looks like the original pump, but I remember the previous owner saying something about some sort of a problem (he had someone else work on the car so a lot was lost in interpretation). The fuel line in front of the tank is not the vent line. This one just disappears behind the tank somewhere.

Attachment: fuelpump.jpeg (Downloaded 42 times)

redracer
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I think we just went over this recently(don't remember who). More likely the float valves have not been tightened enough(as was that person's case) or if not run in a long time, then float valves could be stuck open.
Since you have the correct fuel pump(SU) I would rule out a pressure problem.
Time to remove the carbs.
bruce

redracer
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Here's the POST was started on 8/11/'20



Carburetors > Fuel leaking from vent (39 replies - 1343 views) 08-11-2020
Stock Stromberg 175 cd2. The carbs appear to be in good order. was told they were recently rebuilt. The car ran well when i drove ...

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09-01-2020 08:10 am
40th Post
Jagwire64
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Carb removed...much faster this time. Torqued the float bowl valve a wee bit...no more leak.

Result...finally. Thanks all for your help. Will be back on the road very soon.

pokeyjoe
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It just seemed odd that they didn't leak and then both did.

I hope the new needle and seat assemblies do the trick, but that brings up another question. The kit included both thick and thin washers for the needle and seat assemblies. I used the thin ones (and both carbs are the same). It looks like they're the same as the old ones. Should I use the thick ones?

redracer
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doesn't matter which crush washer you use--just DON"T reuse one that's already been "crushed". The float height is done using your fingers to bend the float tab.
btw, it takes quite a bit of force to "crush" the washer enough; you may want to put Permatex #2, #98, or #3 on both sides of the washer just in case.

pokeyjoe
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Thanks.

I'm thinking that simple ball and spring regulator is long gone as well. I should probably pick up an aftermarket one.

redracer
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the SU fuel pumps did & do NOT require a regulator. They are set for low pressure and volume



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