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 Posted: 12-01-2020 02:08 am
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Esprit2
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Joined: 05-01-2005
Location: Minneapolis, Minnesota USA
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Art,
For attachments, the file size must not exceed 102400 bytes... or 102kb. There are some little 'cling-ons' that add to the file side as sent, so I've found that 100-102kb photo attachments bounce. I've had to get them down to 96-98kb maximum before they upload.

*~*~*~*
Did you use purpose-made mold release wax, or just car wax? Mold release wax makes a difference. Polyester resin contains solvents that can attack regular wax. For that reason, when I'm playing with molds, I prefer to use epoxy resin.

In addition, consider spraying the plug or mold with PVA (poly vinyl alcohol) and letting it dry before laying-up the fiberglass. When you're done, any PVA residue rinses off easily.

For small parts, I usually spray it with a PreVal. It's a glass jar with 'aerosol' spray nozzel that accepts a screw-on, disposable pressure cannister. Pour whatever you want to spray into the glass jar, attach a pressure cannister, and spray away.

https://www.homedepot.com/b/Paint-Paint-Supplies-Paint-Sprayers/Preval/N-5yc1vZarv5Z7vb

https://www.amazon.com/pva-mold-release/s?k=pva+mold+release

Regards,
Tim Engel

Last edited on 12-01-2020 02:12 am by Esprit2

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 Posted: 12-01-2020 04:11 pm
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Art DeKneef
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Joined: 03-12-2005
Location: Mesa, Arizona USA
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Hi Tim,

I used a mold release wax that I used earlier to make a couple of pieces for something else. Those pieces popped off with a little effort. That's why I was surprised when I had so much trouble removing the mold pieces. The mold itself turned out OK except for everything sticking to it.

I didn't use any PVA as I didn't think I would need it based on not needing it on the pieces I made before. But I plan on using PVA when I try again. I have all the equipment needed here so that's not an issue.

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 Posted: 12-02-2020 07:09 am
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discogodfather
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I've stuck some molds in my time and it's extremely frustrating. Second on that PVA, it works, just remember to let it dry thoroughly. More generous draft angles and a really good analysis of undercuts is always a good idea too. Sometimes the mold hangs up with a very nuanced undercut that goes undetected, and no amount of mold release will allow that to separate.

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