Home 
Home Search search Menu menu Not logged in - Login | Register
> Jensen Healey & Jensen GT Tech > Engine & Transmission > Engine R&R with 2 piece header

 Moderated by: Greg Fletcher
New Topic Reply Printer Friendly
Engine R&R with 2 piece header  Rate Topic 
AuthorPost
 Posted: 06-13-2020 02:44 pm
  PM Quote Reply
1st Post
Steve Duncan
Member
 

Joined: 09-12-2011
Location:  
Posts: 44
Status: 
Offline
Am making plans to remove and replace engine. LHD. Two piece header. Can I leave the header and the steering shaft attached during the process?

Back To Top PM Quote Reply  

 Posted: 06-13-2020 03:27 pm
  PM Quote Reply
2nd Post
Dakota123
Member
 

Joined: 03-20-2009
Location: Colorado USA
Posts: 180
Status: 
Offline
I have the cast manifold with the two-piece downpipes, but what I ended up doing was leaving the “header” in place. Unbolted the lower shaft joint from the rack input stub, loosened the rack mounting bolts and pulled the rack away from the subframe so the lower joint disconnected from the stub, and pulled the engine/4-spd trans together, leaving the steering shaft in place. Ended up working great. The cast manifold is bulkier than the two-piece header, so I would think the two-piece would be fine, too. Engine is going back in today or tomorrow.

Back To Top PM Quote Reply

 Posted: 06-13-2020 03:27 pm
  PM Quote Reply
3rd Post
Dakota123
Member
 

Joined: 03-20-2009
Location: Colorado USA
Posts: 180
Status: 
Offline
[duplicate]

Last edited on 06-13-2020 03:28 pm by Dakota123

Back To Top PM Quote Reply  

 Posted: 06-13-2020 05:15 pm
  PM Quote Reply
4th Post
Steve Duncan
Member
 

Joined: 09-12-2011
Location:  
Posts: 44
Status: 
Offline
So I'm clear on your approach, you left the upper u-joint on the steering shaft connected to the steering column as it comes out of the firewall?

Back To Top PM Quote Reply

 Posted: 06-13-2020 08:27 pm
  PM Quote Reply
5th Post
redracer
Member
 

Joined: 09-10-2012
Location: BROOKHAVEN, Georgia USA
Posts: 369
Status: 
Offline
I've never left the lower steering shaft in place; if you unbolt the bottom part and loosen the rack as Dakota sauid, it's easy to loosen the upper pinch bolt and remove the shaft(before pulling out the engine, tm, & headers as one unit).
WARNING": TO REMOVE THE UPPER PINCH CLAMP, YOU MUST SPREAD THE CLAMP A LITTLE USING A TAPERED CHISEL AT 90 DEGREES TO THE AXIS, OR YOU WILL BREAK THE 2 NYLON INSERTS INSIDE THE COLLAPSIBLE 2 PIECE COLUMN--GUARANTEED; VERY DANGEROUS

Back To Top PM Quote Reply  

 Posted: 06-14-2020 03:05 am
  PM Quote Reply
6th Post
discogodfather
Member


Joined: 09-17-2007
Location: San Francisco, California USA
Posts: 140
Status: 
Offline
I've found the header to be extremely easy to remove if you remove the exhaust cam housing. If you don't, it's difficult. It's fairly easy to remove the steering rod, granted you do what red said and spread those joints a bit.

If you are going to rebuild the engine anyway then taking the cam towers and even the head out first makes engine removal much easier, granted your cherry picking it from the top.

Back To Top PM Quote Reply

 Posted: 06-14-2020 12:49 pm
  PM Quote Reply
7th Post
Dakota123
Member
 

Joined: 03-20-2009
Location: Colorado USA
Posts: 180
Status: 
Offline
“ So I'm clear on your approach, you left the upper u-joint on the steering shaft connected to the steering column as it comes out of the firewall?“

Yes, that’s right.

Last edited on 06-14-2020 12:50 pm by Dakota123

Back To Top PM Quote Reply  

 Posted: 06-14-2020 01:12 pm
  PM Quote Reply
8th Post
Steve Duncan
Member
 

Joined: 09-12-2011
Location:  
Posts: 44
Status: 
Offline
Thanks everyone. Appreciate the quick answers and comments.

Back To Top PM Quote Reply

 Posted: 06-14-2020 01:26 pm
  PM Quote Reply
9th Post
redracer
Member
 

Joined: 09-10-2012
Location: BROOKHAVEN, Georgia USA
Posts: 369
Status: 
Offline
Since it's so dangerous, I've been asked to comment with a tech article on the upper 2 piece steering shaft(that's the part that's inside the car and extends through the firewall to be joined by the 3 pin upper steering knuckle). I will post the rewrite(Issue #55, The White Lady", December 1990, pages 8-10) in a separate article.
bruce

Back To Top PM Quote Reply  

 Posted: 06-14-2020 02:33 pm
  PM Quote Reply
10th Post
Steve Duncan
Member
 

Joined: 09-12-2011
Location:  
Posts: 44
Status: 
Offline
I'd very much like to see that. I replaced those nylon pieces a number of years ago but can't visualize the construct. Yesterday I removed the lower shaft after loosening the u-joints. Didn't take much effort. But based on your warnings, I'd like to now determine if I unintentionally damaged the nylon inserts in the process. Can you provide the specifics on how to determine if they are damaged? Excessive play? Will it be obvious? Thanks

Back To Top PM Quote Reply

 Posted: 06-14-2020 04:34 pm
  PM Quote Reply
11th Post
redracer
Member
 

Joined: 09-10-2012
Location: BROOKHAVEN, Georgia USA
Posts: 369
Status: 
Offline
Steve: I typed the article right after I sent the previous post( a "rewrite").
As for telling/checking whether or not you have already broken the plastic pin, you really can't, so I would ASSUME it IS broken and try the "REPAIR" i posted a little while ago(better safe than dead??)

Back To Top PM Quote Reply  

Current time is 02:35 am  
> Jensen Healey & Jensen GT Tech > Engine & Transmission > Engine R&R with 2 piece header Top




UltraBB 1.172 Copyright © 2007-2011 Data 1 Systems