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 Posted: 03-08-2018 08:35 pm
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tonyhawker
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My 1974, in excellent condition, has two rock divots/Texas bullet pits on the right side.  My Mark 1, good only as a parts car, has a good windshield.

I am considering swapping the windshield assemblies as a unit so I do not run the risk of glass breakage.  How difficult is access to the frame bolts, how many and their locations?  The manuals do not seem very specific in these details and I would rather have some advice before limbering up the impact hammer.

Thanks in advance for any help.

Tony Hawker

Last edited on 03-08-2018 08:36 pm by tonyhawker

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 Posted: 03-09-2018 04:45 pm
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answerman
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I tried this when I was disassembling a bits car and it didn't work so well for me. Unbolting wasn't actually too bad, but the bottom of the windshield is glued to the unibody (the frame is just the top and sides, no bottom) and I managed to crack the glass trying to get the glue loose.

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 Posted: 03-09-2018 10:04 pm
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Frank Schwartz
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Based on my own bad experience...I strongly suggest you get a glass installer that does classic and specialty car glass... Let him remove the glass from your donor car and install it on your car that you want it in...They know how to do it and not break it.

Frank

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 Posted: 03-10-2018 11:13 pm
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tonyhawker
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Thanks guys.  You convinced me that I can easily live with a couple stone chips on the right side!  The important thing now is  to get the Webers gone over and test fire the engine.  Then comes the wiring rejuvenating.

 Just had another thought...Are there any numbers for the stalk switches that can be cross referenced to MG, Triumph, etc.  Mine are only partially functional.  Horn and washers are gone.

Tony

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 Posted: 03-18-2018 03:34 am
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DonBurns
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Delta Motorsports has a source to rebuild the left stalk using parts of your original, and new right stalks. $375 for both.

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 Posted: 03-19-2018 04:46 pm
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redracer
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Tony: very often the "push" buttons on either/both stalks(horn & washer spray) have the brass contact inside come out of their "sockets". Both of the end caps will unscrew exposing the tapered brass contact(they ground the connection).
Using a VOM, I would check the connection coming out of the 2 switches as the washer motor and horns may be bad(especially the washer). Even run wires directly over from the battery to check both the horns and washer.

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 Posted: 03-19-2018 05:46 pm
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tonyhawker
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Thank you Red for the info.  The PO, somewhere in the distant past, installed a big chrome push button to the left of the column for the horns, now converted to air.  He also drilled two holes in the panel to the right of the column for a spring return bat handle switch for the washer.  Since my ignition switch does not engage the starter I put an identical switch in the left hand hole so I can start by flipping it up, assuming my ignition switch is actually at fault.  At least all holes are filled!

Right now I have got the fuel system working, the stuck rear carb needle unstuck and the cam timing issue fixed.  Next thing to arrange is to have the fire department on standby for the first start.  Maybe also the bomb squad?

Bringing these old gals back to life sure is rewarding, if not frustrating at times.  My three Model Ts were much easier to get going.

My deadline for a road test is before April 29 for a local British Car show.

Tony

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 Posted: 03-19-2018 06:18 pm
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redracer
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Too bad about all the extra holes--could have been fixed fairly easily(must not have been a JHPS member).
Since you mentioned the "stuck" carb. needle, I would be VERY worried about the float valve sticking, if not now then in the near future. I would STRONGLY recommend you rebuild the carbs.(not too difficult--about 5 hours) as the likelihood of an engine fire with the rear carb. sitting right over the starter solenoid--we call it "instant fire"; so have your marshmallows and chicken wings ready to go.

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