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 Posted: 06-20-2017 01:14 pm
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stuartmorgan
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Hi all
I replaced my fuel sender with a NOS one that I bought that came with the new seal and voltage balancer
It worked great, so I filled it further, until it got to over half full and the leak appeared from under the lock ring boss, only slowly but enough
So I bent theta sin further, got a flat blade next to one of the tab bases and tapped it further around clock wise until it basically stopped
It seems to have halted the leak, so here's my question (s)

I've never removed this type of ring lock before, only flange types
I cheated and removed it with tank in situ, so I had to prise ring out and then flatten it again toner use
Are they actually meant to work like a helical ie screw back into that opening or are the tabs supposed to bent to hold it there or are the tabs just to have something to grip while turn
Ning
I keep checking it in cares it leaks

Oh and one other thing, the fuel hoses coming off the top of the tank and on the right hand side look original, with those twist wire clamps ( fuel pump connector hoses are new) the older hoses aren't leaking, should I leave them un disturbed??
Cheers
Stu

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 Posted: 06-20-2017 03:10 pm
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Frank Schwartz
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Stu:
Those hoses are over thirty years old...prevent a leak in the future...replace them with new hoses.. The old "an ounce of prevention" thing, you know..
Regards,
Frank

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 Posted: 06-20-2017 04:18 pm
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Screenplay
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Hi Stu,
It sounds as if what you've done is correct - tapping those tabs until the lock ring is tight and not bending them. It's always good to keep an eye on it for a while but after some time has passed with no leaks I'd say it's good to go.

I completely agree with Frank on the hoses... replace them all while you're in there. It's a low pressure environment and they are sheltered from the elements, but they're old and they can and will get brittle, especially if the car is in any heat.

Cheers,
Clinton

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 Posted: 06-20-2017 07:01 pm
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Jim Ketcham
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When replacing the hoses remember the anti-siphon hose has a check valve embedded in it. Don't throw it out. It can be cut out and installed in your new hose.

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 Posted: 06-20-2017 11:44 pm
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redracer
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Stu:
1) the tabs on the locking ring are just for getting it on and off(screwdriver works well)
2) Jim pointed out the very important anti-siphon valve(about the size of a 22 caliber bullet) located in the end of the line going to a "T" at the top left side of the gas tank. There should be the fuel line running from the electric pump going into this "T" at 90 degrees and exiting on the opposite side going to the carbs.(Earlier gas tanks did NOT have this anti-siphon valve and could leak gas through the carbs if the gas tank was higher than the carbs, such as when sitting on a steep downhill, nose first)

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 Posted: 06-21-2017 12:27 pm
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stuartmorgan
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Thanks frank I think your right
I will do it as a weekend winter mental relaxation job
Stu

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 Posted: 06-21-2017 12:28 pm
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stuartmorgan
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Thanks frank
I did read about this and saw pics on an old blog
Stu

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 Posted: 06-21-2017 12:31 pm
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stuartmorgan
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Thanks Clinton
Hopefully I it doesn't start leaking again
I put a bore scope in and took a look above and below baffles
It was clean, no real debris, but some rust spots starting, but not bad, pretty good actually considering age
Stu

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 Posted: 06-21-2017 12:34 pm
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stuartmorgan
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Hi Bruce
Thanks mate
Can you guys advise the fuel hose size for these lines and are they all the same size hose and barbs??
I had some fuel hose left over from when I did the Interceptor, but it's too big in Dia
Stu

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 Posted: 06-21-2017 01:05 pm
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Brett Gibson JH5 20497
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pretty sure 5/16"

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 Posted: 06-21-2017 01:48 pm
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redracer
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Fuel line to "T" is 5/16"; the plastic/black nylon lines have reducer rubber(1/8" I think) going to the charcoal cannister in front. (be sure that line is "OPEN" or you will create a gas tank vacuum).
btw, forgot to mention in the previous email that we use #2 Permatex on both sides of the black rubber gasket to ensure against gas leaks from the sending unit/pick-up tube hole.

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