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Getrag 5 speed transmission  Rate Topic 
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 Posted: 12-14-2016 06:40 pm
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little red
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Well as luck has it. Changed my clutch cable only to find the clutch pivot pin broken. It is still working but it is very loose and sloppy. It is starting to make a groove on the release bearing. Looks like I opened a can of worms. No luck finding a replacement at the usual places, Delta and Martin Robey. Mike from Delta is checking around but could take some time if he finds anything at all. Hoping someone might have a used one hanging around that they would be willing to part with. Any thoughts would be appreciated.

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 Posted: 12-14-2016 10:33 pm
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redracer
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I assume you mean the fulcrum half-moon point inside the bell housing?
Back in 1992 mine broke as well, but probably from the fast, hard, shifting I was doing. I had/have plenty of spare bell housings(5spd) but I preferred to weld the broken piece making it stronger and better than original.
Unless someone is doing a Concourse judging, that would be the better way to go

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 Posted: 12-14-2016 11:18 pm
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little red
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I think we are talking about the same thing. The 5 speed lever pivot that connects the clutch release lever. I did think about welding but I need to find someone who can do a good job. Can I remove the pivot without dropping the transmission?

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 Posted: 12-15-2016 12:05 am
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redracer
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Unfortunately, you will assuredly have to remove the tm(unless you can make a VERY specialized tool). R&R for a 5spd. is 6 hours,(5 hours for 4 spd), and that's my time, having done many over the years.
Of course I weld as well, but a friend with only a decent MIG machine will do the job.

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 Posted: 12-15-2016 12:13 am
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little red
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Thanks for the info. Will start planning.

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 Posted: 12-15-2016 05:01 am
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Tom Bradley
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The pivot pin on my 5-speed broke at the stem between the main body and the half-round head. I was able to remove and re-install it through the small access port on the side of the bell housing with a standard wrench. It was not easy, but still much easier than removing the trans.

Mine broke because the clutch release lever slipped so the pivot pin was not seated in the depressed spot at the end of the lever. When doing anything with the clutch cable it is advisable to open the access port and make sure the pivot pin is in the correct spot after the cable adjustment is finalized. Which is probably why the port was put there in the first place.

Last edited on 12-15-2016 05:02 am by Tom Bradley

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 Posted: 12-15-2016 10:14 am
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little red
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Thanks. Remember how long it took you for the Repair? I'm thinking 3-4 hours if all goes well.

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 Posted: 12-15-2016 09:32 pm
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Tom Bradley
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It was many years ago, but I think it was probably longer than that. But then, I am not a fast worker and I spent a lot of time checking and rechecking the connection between the pivot pin and the lever and working the clutch to make sure that it was not going to slip again as I put everything back together and adjusted the cable.

The main indication that the pin is in the wrong spot on the lever was that it took noticeably more effort to work the clutch pedal.

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 Posted: 12-15-2016 09:38 pm
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Tom Bradley
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Forgot: Also make sure that the half-round end slips under the clip on the lever, not just sitting on top. When the whole thing is out of the car it is obvious how it goes, but I am not sure how easy it is to see when peeking through the access port.

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 Posted: 12-15-2016 10:06 pm
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little red
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Thanks. Felt around up there. Did feel something, must be the clip. So far no response from anyone about having a pivot pin they would part with. May have to weld and replace. Still hope one is available.

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 Posted: 12-17-2016 05:32 am
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Tom Bradley
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Nothing wrong with welding, at least if it is a professional job. A good weld is supposedly stronger than the original steel. I got mine welded and it has lasted nearly 100K miles.

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 Posted: 12-17-2016 12:42 pm
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little red
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Thanks. It ─║ooks like welding is a good option.

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