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qwerty
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Jensen Healey Specific Manual Eccentric Hub.

AUD$125.00 + 40.00 Express Shipping for 4 - 6 Business days (tracked) ~ USD$125-135 including shipping depending on exchange rate and paypal fees as of 24 Jan 2017

Ditch the 2x 6005's, the tensioner shell and sloppy adjustment nut and allow replacement with the superior 1 piece Timing Belt Bearing SKF 414871A or the Flennor FS03299.

Either will fit this hub made especially for the Jensen Healey.
  • 4140 Alloy Steel
  • Full concentric abutment with spot face on the block increasing rigidity.
  • Full concentric abutment with spot face on the block reducing carving of block spot face upon multiple readjustments.
  • Centralized Adjustment nut allowing normal spanners.
  • Protruding hex to allow for easier spanner fit.
  • Hard shoulder while pressing in to avoid misalignment.
  • Easier to adjust tension.
  • Wider Roller over the Stock J-H Shell.
  • Reduced radial offset yet increased OD of roller to allow for less sensitive adjustment.
  • 24mm adjustment hex
  • Parts supplied: Tensioner Hub, High Tensile Nyloc and washer.
  • Bearing not included.
We have done a small batch of these. Please let me know if you are interested.

Attachment: Jensen Healey Eccentric Hub Tensioner 1.JPG (Downloaded 333 times)

Last edited on 01-24-2017 10:07 am by qwerty

qwerty
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Attachment: Jensen Healey Eccentric Hub Tensioner 2.JPG (Downloaded 330 times)

qwerty
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Did a minor update today to make sure the Nyloc is fully engaged on the stud. Please check when installing that you have some exposed thread when you torque the nyloc to specification. All Hubs now have this High Tensile Nyloc and Washer included.

Attachment: 1.JPG (Downloaded 289 times)

Last edited on 01-24-2017 10:09 am by qwerty

Esprit2
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You guys should all buy two. One as a worthwhile upgrade for your 907 engine, and one as a piece of sculpture for your desk.

Regards,
Tim Engel

Esprit2
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This is a good upgrade over the OEM J-H tensioner assembly. Good stuff.

There are junk bearing brands out there in the world, but IMHO, you can't go wrong with SKF. They're a top drawer bearing manufacturer.

Flennor makes timing belts (like Gates, Goodyear, Dayco, etc). The tensioner bearing Flennor markets has recently become popular in the Lotus world, and JAE sells it... although they'll also sell you an SKF if you specifically request it.

Or you can get one of many comparable brands at a local bearing supply. Just drop the SKF part number, and they can cross-reference it. But by 'quality', don't buy cheap.

There's a visual clone of this bearing that has blue seals. It's one of those 'junk' bearings mentioned above, and every example I've seen has been bad out of the box. It's made in China. I don't recall the brand name, but it's something silly like "Blue Bird"... or blue-something. With blue seals. Stay safe, don't buy a bearing with blue seals. I know that excludes other good bearings that happen to have blue seals, but it will also keep you from this bad one.

Regards,
Tim Engel

Last edited on 11-29-2016 06:17 pm by Esprit2

qwerty
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Funny you say that, i have one in the car and one on my desk now. :)

Esprit2
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Off topic but...
Early Lotus Esprits used a Citroen transaxle. A special tool is required to remove the large nut at the back of the secondary shaft, and I made one years ago. It's not pretty, but it works. A Citroen specialist in the Neatherlands, Harry Martens, developed an improved tool that's a 'real piece of work' just by design. Plus, it's beautifully machined out of stainless, then buffed to a shine. He asks US$250 for a glorified socket. I didn't need one, since my old hack still works. But I bought one just because it's such a fine piece of metal sculpture. Sometimes want exceeds need.

Regards,
Tim Engel

Last edited on 11-29-2016 06:29 pm by Esprit2

jomac
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what is the cost ? US $ and shipping charge.

jomac
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Reply FYI>>>> about timing belts: there are numerous tooth patterns that look similar but are different, lotus used belt part number A907E0191ZE. i only buy belts directly from QED.
They cost more but you know they're for the 907 cam pulleys.

Esprit2
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The 907's original trapezoidal tooth belt is a 3/8" pitch Imperial belt (otherwise known as Profile Size "L"), and many companies sell that size. The only caveat is that you want 133 teeth and 1 inch wide.

Other trapezoidal belts may have the same tooth shape, but they're all in incrementally different sizes (pitches). They won't match the pulley teeth and lay naturally against the pulley. You know right away if it's right or wrong. The round-tooth belts are more tricky. There are 3/8" pitch belts in HTD, GT1, and GT2 round tooth forms, and they look deceptively alike. But they're not the same, and the GT belts do NOT ride properly on the HTD pulleys.

Gates Rubber makes more timing belts than any other brand in the world, and contract manufactures belts for many of the other big names you might think of as their competitors. For the trapezoidal tooth belt, just remember one part number... and depending upon where you live, it's...
Gates T104 in the US, Canada, Australia, etc.
Gates 5146 in the UK

Walk into any good auto parts store/ motor factors, give them the Gates part number for the country you're in, and they can cross-ref to whatever brand they stock (everybody knows Gates). If it's a name brand you recognize, buy it. If it's a no-name, low-price special from China, don't buy it. Doing that will get you to something like...
Dayco 95104
Goodyear 40104
Flennor 41133
Nipparts J1121030

If you want the 'best', longest lasting trapezoidal belt you can get at this time, then stretch your memory a little further, and ask for a Gates Racing T104RB blue belt. Write it down and put it in the glove box. Available at RockAuto.com and NAPA in North America.

Regards,
Tim Engel

Last edited on 01-21-2017 11:52 pm by Esprit2

Frank Schwartz
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Yes...how much for the tensioner and shipping etc to USA??
Or off line to me at mfsjr2@comcast.net

Thank you,
Frank

qwerty
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Updated the Price in the title, appologies for the late reply.

Ps we have a holiday weekend coming up this weekend so i may not reply until next week.

Thank you.

Last edited on 01-24-2017 09:55 am by qwerty

DonBurns
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I would love to have one of these. Please provide a USD current price when available and PayPal info.

Thanks-

Don Burns

Frank Schwartz
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Me also...need to get o0u to send me invoice and I will pay by pay pal...USD to AUD is only 75% so exchange rate will save me a few dollars. Off this list at mfsjr2@Comcast.net

Esprit2
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Frank & Don,
Go up to the first message in this thread, and you'll see that Peter updated it with new pricing information as of Jan 24th. He wrote:

> "AUD$125.00 + 40.00 Express Shipping for 4 - 6 Business days (tracked)
> ~USD$125-135 including shipping depending on exchange rate and paypal fees as of 24 Jan 2017"

Note that, as it's used above, the ~ (tilde symbol) means "approximately". Approximately USD$125-135 including shipping.

Regards,
Tim Engel

Last edited on 01-25-2017 11:28 pm by Esprit2

DonBurns
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Understood,but we can't send an approximate amount via PayPal. Need an amount and payment instructions.

Frank Schwartz
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Yes, the way I understand it, you send us an invoice via Pay Pal and then we pay using the same media..

Frank

I've ordered from the UK and although the seller prices it in UK pounds, when I pay, it is converted to US dollars and charged to me...works a treat, as the Brits say

DonBurns
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I believe we need an email address or PayPal account of some sort?

Thanks-

Frank Schwartz
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Yes..you can go to PayPal.com and open an account..they charge to your banking checking account. Widely used and very safe...you pay no fees, the seller pays the fees...Works great...but the seller has to send us an invoice or something so we can pay him...I am assuming he uses PayPal??? Maybe he will read this....

Also when you send money to pay a bill you are invoiced for, PayPal also sends your name and mailing or shipping address which you gave them when you opened the account. Quite easy and automatic. I use it very often buying things on eBay and so on...

DonBurns
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I meant the sellers Paypal account. I have an account and use it all the time.

Are SKF 414871A or Flennor FS03299 bearings actually available? I have been searching online, been to two auto parts stores and the Ford dealership and can't find either. Does anybody know a source? The closest I have come appears to be someone willing to provide an equivalent from China.

Thanks-

Esprit2
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DonBurns wrote:
Are SKF 414871A or Flennor FS03299 bearings actually available? I have been searching online, been to two auto parts stores and the Ford dealership and can't find either. Does anybody know a source? The closest I have come appears to be someone willing to provide an equivalent from China.The SKF and Flennor bearings are both current. All of the following bearings are current...
414871A ........ SKF
FS03299 ......... Flennor
531 0098 20 ... INA
TKR 9841 ....... Timken
1500004 ......... Ford ... (1977-86 Ford Transit Van, UK)
QTT156 .......... Quinton Hazell (UK auto parts)
55207 ............. Ruville (X-ref, never heard of it before)
GT352.00 ........ SNR ... (X-ref, never heard of it before)

Many auto parts stores are pretty useless if you don't give them the exact part number they have in their computer, and Ford would only recognize their own part number or vehicle application (1977-86 Ford Transit Van, UK)... they won't cross-ref.

But any industrial bearing distributor should be able to provide at least one of the above bearings, or cross-ref to a similar quality bearing that they do carry. Just Google "Bearing Distributor in Fullerton CA". IMHO, it's worth asking for SKF specifically. Just avoid buying the cheapest bearing you can find, or a no-name brand from China.

While there are quality bearings coming out of China (Timken shifted all of it's production to China), there's also a lot of off-brand junk coming out of China. If you don't recognize the brand name, and it's a cheap bearing from China... don't buy it. It's not worth risking the valves in your "interference" 907 engine! One in particular, Bluebird Bearings. I've seen three Bluebird tensioner bearings, and they were all bad out of the box. They were stiff, difficult to turn by hand, and felt like they were full of gravel. I removed a seal from one, and there was precious little grease in it. I avoid Bluebird bearings.

In the USA, contact any of the independent Lotus parts specialists, and they can provide you with an appropriate tensioner bearing. JAE is not far from you, in Goleta, CA. They sell the Flennor bearing as their main line bearing, and can provide the SKF bearing if you specifically ask for it. I always ask for the SKF. Dave Bean is a little further up the road, in San Andreas, CA.

(805) 967-6183 JAE, Calif.
(209) 754-5177 Dave Bean Engineering, Calif.
(215) 538-9323 rdEnterprises, Maryland

In the UK, contact Lotus specialists SJ Sportscars, Paul Matty Sportscars, Christopher Neill, PNM Engineering, etc.

Regards,
Tim Engel

Last edited on 03-25-2017 10:04 pm by Esprit2

qwerty
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Hi All,

Apologies for my tardy reply. All i need is an email address and the country your in. I will send through a paypal request once i have this. Please keep an eye out for it in your inbox.

Thank you for your patience and regards
Peter

qwerty
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Frank Schwartz wrote: Yes..you can go to PayPal.com and open an account..they charge to your banking checking account. Widely used and very safe...you pay no fees, the seller pays the fees...Works great...but the seller has to send us an invoice or something so we can pay him...I am assuming he uses PayPal??? Maybe he will read this....

Also when you send money to pay a bill you are invoiced for, PayPal also sends your name and mailing or shipping address which you gave them when you opened the account. Quite easy and automatic. I use it very often buying things on eBay and so on...


Hi Frank,

Paypal request sent. Please post up how much it is in USD once you have the request so we can see the current exchange rates.

Regards
Peter

qwerty
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DonBurns wrote: I believe we need an email address or PayPal account of some sort?

Thanks-

Hi Don,

Please let me know your email address via PM, i can then send through a payment request.

Appologies for the late reply.

Regards
Peter

Last edited on 03-25-2017 11:01 am by qwerty

Frank Schwartz
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Good News! Received the request for payment at 165 Australian Dollars .....which when using Pay Pal came to 129.37 US Dollars. And I just sent the payment via PayPal. Looking forward to getting that lovely little item.
Cheers!
Frank

Frank Schwartz
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I forgot to note...PayPay conversion rate 1 AUS Dollar = 1.2754 US Dollar

Frank

qwerty
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DonBurns wrote: I believe we need an email address or PayPal account of some sort?

Thanks-

Paypal request sent Don,

Thank you.

qwerty
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Don and Frank,

Your Hubs will be on their way tomorrow. I will let you kn ow tracking once i have the number.

Thank you and enjoy!
Regards
Peter

Frank Schwartz
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Many thanks ! This will solve the problem of wrenching down in there and having the original tensioner which is difficult at best, to fine tune..
Frank

allstateguy
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Finally got to install the work of art (new tensioner) today.
Flennor bearing, Flennor belt, Kent-Moore tension gage.
Works like A CHARM!!!

Attachment: tensioner in use small 4-26-17.jpg (Downloaded 105 times)

Frank Schwartz
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Are you in Phoenix AZ?? If so, please contact me off line at mfsjr2@comcast. I have a question not related to that great tensioner...

Thank you,
Frank Schwartz

Frank Schwartz
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I got my SKF unit from Dave Bean Engineering...not at all cheap...in fact, quite expensive, but works just great.

I am going to try a local bearing house later this week or next and see what they can come up with.

Frank

Frank Schwartz
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When I said "mine"..I meant my SKF roller bearing. Still need to ask you something as you are in Phoenix...
Off line, at mfsjr2@comcast.net if you please...

Frnk

Frank Schwartz
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When I said "mine"..I meant my SKF roller bearing. Still need to ask you something as you are in Phoenix...
Off line, at mfsjr2@comcast.net if you please...

Frnk

Rick in Miami
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Qwerty - PM sent

little red
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What is the difference between this one and the cam belt tensioner sold by Martin Robey.

Rick in Miami
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I recently purchased and installed one of Peter’s (qwerty’s) eccentric tensioner hubs. Although it is a very nicely made piece, it did not provide enough offset for me to adequately tension my timing belt. Using a nearly new (75+/- miles) Gates T104RB blue trapezoidal racing belt, a new Flennor FS03299 bearing and replacing a somewhat worn auxiliary timing sprocket, the highest reading I could achieve (adjusting anti-clockwise)on my Krikit gauge was just a hair over 40# before it started loosening again. The belt at its tightest was way too loose to use so I had to revert to my factory (late 74) tensioner which I again have adjusted to 47#.

Peter suggested several things I might have overlooked but they are all covered above. I thought I might be able to find a bearing with a bit larger OD to compensate but that turned out not to be an option.

Although the offset is definitely different from stock, my problem may still be unique to my engine. I have a later model 907 head that has probably been shaved a bit since my cam timing marks do not exactly line up @ TDC (110/110).

I am interested in hearing input from others who have gone this route and, since this is not going to work out for me, I will offer my eccentric tensioner hub to anyone interested including the pressed on Flennor bearing and a new spare bearing for $75 + USPS shipping.

Rick

allstateguy
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Someone should pick this up, it's a steal at that price.

Frank Schwartz
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Is this the regular eccentric with two bearings or the very late one with a single bearing that is also the face of the part the the belt rides on...plus...where did you source the T104RB belt? I've tried most places and they all tell me it is not made anymore...
Frank

Frank Schwartz
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Is this the regular eccentric with two bearings or the very late one with a single bearing that is also the face of the part the the belt rides on...plus...where did you source the T104RB belt? I've tried most places and they all tell me it is not made anymore...
Frank

Esprit2
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Rick,
What tension were you trying to achieve with your blue belt?

Regards,
Tim Engel

Rick in Miami
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Frank - this is the one referenced at the beginning of this thread manufactured by querty that uses the late model single bearing. I sourced the belt from Rock Auto http://www.rockauto.com/en/parts/gates,T104RB,timing+belt,5716

Rick in Miami
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Tim - I have settled on 47# cold TDC with the blue belt but wanted to be able to adjust to a bit over 50# to allow room for future adjustments. Adjusting CCW I was only able to get a hair past 40# before passing maximum adjustment. My factory hub with the dual bearings provides full adjustment capability.

Esprit2
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Rick,

One of the blue belt's advantages is it's exceptional stability. Continue to check it's tension on a regular maintenance schedule, but once it's set initially, it's very unlikely that you'll ever have to re-tension it. To date, I've never had to re-tension a blue belt due to stretch.

It appears to me that you're walking away from the convenience of front-side adjustability just to cover a need you'll never have. Just my two cents...

Why not hold off on selling your Van Ruth tensioner until you're certain you won't be using it.

Regards,
Tim Engel

Rick in Miami
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Tim,

I do plan to check tension on a regular basis. My factory tensioner is also adjustable from the front so there is no additional convenience for me there and as I explained before, I was not comfortable with the maximum adjustment I was able to achieve with the Van Ruth tensioner.

little red
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Need help. Just had a cam belt tensioner, from Martin Robey and a blue belt from the club store installed. Now the belt travels about 1/16 of an inch across the camshaft pulleys when the engine is running. It does not touch anything by this movement and will not slide off the pulleys but I am concerned that over time it will damage the belt or might cause damage to the engine. All the videos of the engine running on youtube show the timing belt running straight and not traveling. Mechanic said it is probable the tensioner that is causing the movement. Don't know enough to discuss with him but don't want to get another tensioner and find out that it is not the problem. The black belt that was on there before the change ran straight so I don't think it is the cam shaft pulleys that need to be changed. Any info is appreciated.

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My experience with toothed cam belts on a Porsche 944 Turbo is that you need to replace the pulleys each time you install a new cam belt (they also recommend you replace the water pump on the Porsche at the same time, as it is pain in the butt just to get to the timing belt and the water pump is behind the belt). Over time the cam belt wears a light groove in the pulley and the wear might not be even across the pulley as the cords used in the belt stretch slightly different from one another and this develops a set wear pattern in the pulleys. When you install a new belt on used pulleys, the belt will hunt across the pulley, as it is slightly uneven from wear of the old belt. This will eventually lead to premature wear on the new belt. Check your pulleys and you will probably find that there is a groove worn in the pulleys where the old belt ran. If the teeth on the blue Kevlar belt are harder than the original rubber belt; it may hunt more, as it does not set well in the worn pulleys. Some Jensen owners feel this is a waste of money to replace the pulleys, but if you want maximum life and reliability from the new belt, replace all the pulleys when you replace the belt and chock it up to cost of car ownership.

Last edited on 09-07-2017 07:54 pm by Bluekaos5



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