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 Posted: 07-24-2017 05:37 am
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Esprit2
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Rick,
What tension were you trying to achieve with your blue belt?

Regards,
Tim Engel

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 Posted: 07-24-2017 12:33 pm
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Rick in Miami
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Frank - this is the one referenced at the beginning of this thread manufactured by querty that uses the late model single bearing. I sourced the belt from Rock Auto http://www.rockauto.com/en/parts/gates,T104RB,timing+belt,5716

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 Posted: 07-24-2017 12:41 pm
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Rick in Miami
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Tim - I have settled on 47# cold TDC with the blue belt but wanted to be able to adjust to a bit over 50# to allow room for future adjustments. Adjusting CCW I was only able to get a hair past 40# before passing maximum adjustment. My factory hub with the dual bearings provides full adjustment capability.

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 Posted: 07-24-2017 08:03 pm
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Esprit2
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Rick,

One of the blue belt's advantages is it's exceptional stability. Continue to check it's tension on a regular maintenance schedule, but once it's set initially, it's very unlikely that you'll ever have to re-tension it. To date, I've never had to re-tension a blue belt due to stretch.

It appears to me that you're walking away from the convenience of front-side adjustability just to cover a need you'll never have. Just my two cents...

Why not hold off on selling your Van Ruth tensioner until you're certain you won't be using it.

Regards,
Tim Engel

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 Posted: 07-24-2017 08:15 pm
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Rick in Miami
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Tim,

I do plan to check tension on a regular basis. My factory tensioner is also adjustable from the front so there is no additional convenience for me there and as I explained before, I was not comfortable with the maximum adjustment I was able to achieve with the Van Ruth tensioner.

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 Posted: 07-28-2017 11:33 pm
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little red
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Need help. Just had a cam belt tensioner, from Martin Robey and a blue belt from the club store installed. Now the belt travels about 1/16 of an inch across the camshaft pulleys when the engine is running. It does not touch anything by this movement and will not slide off the pulleys but I am concerned that over time it will damage the belt or might cause damage to the engine. All the videos of the engine running on youtube show the timing belt running straight and not traveling. Mechanic said it is probable the tensioner that is causing the movement. Don't know enough to discuss with him but don't want to get another tensioner and find out that it is not the problem. The black belt that was on there before the change ran straight so I don't think it is the cam shaft pulleys that need to be changed. Any info is appreciated.

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 Posted: 09-07-2017 06:48 pm
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Bluekaos5
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My experience with toothed cam belts on a Porsche 944 Turbo is that you need to replace the pulleys each time you install a new cam belt (they also recommend you replace the water pump on the Porsche at the same time, as it is pain in the butt just to get to the timing belt and the water pump is behind the belt). Over time the cam belt wears a light groove in the pulley and the wear might not be even across the pulley as the cords used in the belt stretch slightly different from one another and this develops a set wear pattern in the pulleys. When you install a new belt on used pulleys, the belt will hunt across the pulley, as it is slightly uneven from wear of the old belt. This will eventually lead to premature wear on the new belt. Check your pulleys and you will probably find that there is a groove worn in the pulleys where the old belt ran. If the teeth on the blue Kevlar belt are harder than the original rubber belt; it may hunt more, as it does not set well in the worn pulleys. Some Jensen owners feel this is a waste of money to replace the pulleys, but if you want maximum life and reliability from the new belt, replace all the pulleys when you replace the belt and chock it up to cost of car ownership.

Last edited on 09-07-2017 06:54 pm by Bluekaos5

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