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3 Fuse Third fuse  Rate Topic 
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 Posted: 11-14-2016 03:03 pm
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sxjw
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On my first day trip things went well. Next day I lost tach-battery-temp-turn signal gages and controls I was told that it was the fuse box. Is this usual? Would a new 3 fuse block fix it. It does not have a cover. Told new blade fuse box would cost >$3000 mostly in labor. Is that about right?

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 Posted: 11-14-2016 03:25 pm
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DonBurns
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I had this happen to me, and it was intermittent. May not be the same for you, but in my case it turned out to be a loose connection into the little box thingy right next to the hood release pull. It wasn't pulled out, just loose. I'm sure it was getting nudged when I opened the hood (sorry, bonnet). Before I found this I got so frustrated I went ahead and ordered a new wiring harness.

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 Posted: 11-14-2016 04:56 pm
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answerman
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Before you do anything, I would pull out the fuses, clean them up (emery cloth or steel wool, or maybe a can of aerosol electrical contact cleaner) and also clean the fuse clamps that hold them in place. They are notorious for getting dirty and causing intermittent connections. I have to "spin" one in its holder every so often to get it to connect properly.

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 Posted: 11-14-2016 07:24 pm
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sxjw
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Thanks for the info will look into it

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 Posted: 11-15-2016 04:31 am
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Tim Murphy
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sxjw: "Told new blade fuse box would cost >$3000 mostly in labor. Is that about right?"

That sounds insanely high, possibly a rip off. How much is your car worth? Some how, the equivalence, one used JH equals one fuse box install doesn't make sense.

Have your replaced the fuse? Cleaned the contacts, both male and female? Doing basic electrical work is not difficult and only requires a few simple tools. Learn to crimp a few new connectors where necessary.

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 Posted: 11-15-2016 06:26 am
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subwoofer
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Off by an order of magnitude if you do the installation yourself. Brand new universal wiring harnesses for the entire car runs in the 150-300$ range, depending on the number of circuits and features you want in it. Not done in a weekend if you decide to rewire the entire car, though.

Replacing only the fuse box shouldn't be anywhere near the indicated cost, but I would absolutely not replace it with a new part of the same design as that design is deeply flawed.

Some DPOs have read that dielectric grease is a good thing, so more dielectric grease would be even better, right? Clean out any gunk from the fuse box, tense up the connecting "fingers" and clean everything with an oxide cleaner and a Q-tip before replacing the fuses - with just a light smear of dielectric grease. That may well keep you on the road and happy for quite some time.

--
Joachim

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 Posted: 11-15-2016 09:17 pm
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sxjw
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Thanks for replies
All very helpful. I was misinformed on the estimate was $500 not $3000 bad handwriting. Still helps to have additional information.
Hoping to get the 3 fuse box up and livable for at least a year. No cover.
Also I thought someone [Greg] said something about which type of fuse to use BUT I can't find it.
What's the spec on the fuse [35 amp?] and where can I get them ? It has two fuses that are frosty white and look "English" the third is a typical american glass tube type.
The wiki on Lucas fuse was a little confusing and didn't see much about which fuses the Jensen Healey 1975 3 fuse box uses.
Guys thanks for the replies really helps not to feel alone with this "almost there" project
Does anyone know which fuse controls the turn signals? My manual page 28 didn't list them on any of the three. Are they called something else in England? hood/bonnet
I can live without tach even fuel Gage but not turn signals.

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 Posted: 11-15-2016 10:52 pm
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answerman
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Fuse size comparisons: http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/ForumImages/FuseComparison.pdf

Basically, it's a question of "must blow" vs "slow blow". The Lucas 35 amp is the rough equivalent of an AGC 17 amp fuse. Me (speaking as an electrician), I'd go with AGC 15s since what you're mostly worried about is a short circuit (which will blow a 20 or 30 amp fuse as quick as a 15 amp) and you don't want to burn your wiring up, which isn't rated to carry 35 amps continuous.

I'm not sure about the turn signals. They *may* not be fused. There are several circuits on the JH that aren't, like the cigarette lighter socket.

Last edited on 11-15-2016 10:54 pm by answerman

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 Posted: 11-16-2016 05:45 am
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Tim Murphy
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From John Kimbrough's work on the JH electrical system, it sounds like your top fuse is not working. As answerman said, Replace it with a 15 or 17 amp AGC fuse, a $1 part.

http://jk.jhppg.com/html/wiring.html

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 Posted: 11-16-2016 09:16 am
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subwoofer
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Also keep in mind that due to the design of the fuse box, the fuse box may still be the problem even if some functions coming off the same fuse are still working. The prongs/fingers connecting and holding the fuse are not connected and some circuits run off the top, some off the bottom finger!

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Joachim

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 Posted: 11-22-2016 07:10 pm
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sxjw
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Just got fuses and dielectric grease and will try over the holidays. Any thoughts on a cover for the fuses. Has anyone found/made a cover? It did not come with a cover. Last night drive everything worked at the beginning but then signals dropped. Hoping cleaning contacts with cleaner and dielectric grease will help

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 Posted: 11-22-2016 09:23 pm
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Screenplay
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I learned about poor/corroded grounds with a TR6 I had years ago. An old mechanic told me when entire sets of accesories work intermittently, look for a bad ground contact. After sorting through the fuse box as Joachim says, go around the entire car and clean all the grounds with a light abrasive (I use a dremel tool with a small brass brush) starting at one end and working to the other. Apply dialectic grease and see what happens.

Delta doesn't show a fuse box or cover in its catalogue but you might give them a call anyway.

Clinton

Last edited on 11-22-2016 09:24 pm by Screenplay

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 Posted: 11-22-2016 09:49 pm
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sxjw
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Thanks for the ground tip. Adding to holiday work list. Enjoy the Holiday
SX

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