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qwerty
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Specifically the bastard bolt that will foul on the Aux Pulley when removing, i read on another forum to shave down a spare 10mm box spanner which helped to get in between the pulley and the hex head. Better still use a double offset box spanner ground down on the outside and attack it from the front of the engine.

Unscrewing the bolt reavealed that it will hit a tooth on the wheel preventing full removal of the bolt, the tip is to rotate the crank so the bolt center is in the valley of a tooth and it will clear and can be unscrewed by hand.

Will be replacing with Stainless Cap Screws.

Attachment: Water pump bolt.JPG (Downloaded 166 times)

Last edited on 11-02-2016 07:58 am by qwerty

redracer
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On all the rebuilt water pumps I have done, I include an allen bolt to replace that one troublesome hex bolt, making removal and installation much easier.

Esprit2
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Some Allen drive cap screw heads (cheese heads) are taller than others, and can rub on the back of the pulley. Choose the lowest profile cap screw you can find, and use a thin, electronics panel washer instead of a normal thick one.

Regards,
Tim Engel

qwerty
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Esprit2 wrote: Some Allen drive cap screw heads (cheese heads) are taller than others, and can rub on the back of the pulley. Choose the lowest profile cap screw you can find, and use a thin, electronics panel washer instead of a normal thick one.

Regards,
Tim Engel

Taller or shorter may be special purpose. They should all be DIN/ISO Standard dimensions. I'll report back if there is interference.

If you happen to have a taller cap head, machining or grinding them down to a clearance shouldn't be an issue. Button heads will clear easily although they are a fair bit weaker.

Last edited on 11-08-2016 08:54 am by qwerty

Esprit2
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qwerty wrote:
Button heads will clear easily although they are a fair bit weaker.As noted, button heads are weaker... I wouldn't use one. But more importantly, diameter is important. The key advantage of the cheese head cap screw is that it's small enough in diameter to fit between adjacent teeth on the pulley. Just rotate the pulley to align, and the Allen cap screw should come out. I don't know if that's true of all button heads.

Regards,
Tim Engel

qwerty
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They should all be the same OD regardless of type as per the standards, though cheese head and the button's allen key size is from experiance one size smaller which is a pain. I'm looking at getting a full size cap screws all over the water pump, fan pulley and cam covers, anything a can really, i'm a big fan. I'd even go Torx Button Heads but availability isn't that great.

Tim can you remember the bolt thread off the top of your head and i'll look them up and compare them with the hex head bolt's diameter. ( i haven't got the car here to measure). Generally the dia of a cap screw is the distance across the flats of a hex head.

Last edited on 11-09-2016 08:19 am by qwerty

qwerty
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No clearance issues at all, breezed it in with the stock washer.

Standard M6 x 25 Cap Screw as pictured.
Head Dia 10mm, smaller than a hex head bolt.
Head depth 5.82mm (without washer)

Attachment: Waterpump looking down.JPG (Downloaded 105 times)

Last edited on 11-11-2016 09:11 am by qwerty

Esprit2
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qwerty wrote:
Tim can you remember the bolt thread off the top of your head and i'll look them up and compare them with the hex head bolt's diameter. ( i haven't got the car here to measure). Generally the dia of a cap screw is the distance across the flats of a hex head.
No, I don't recall. I've never made a point of tracking down a specific bolt as much as I've gone to the local hardware store and bought what they had.

Regards,
Tim Engel



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