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 Posted: 10-14-2016 05:52 am
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Frank Schwartz
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I have found that some JHs have a fuse box with double clips at each end and some with single clips at reach end. Obviously Jensen changed suppliers somewhere along the production line. Anyhow on our JH 18299 we have the box with double clips at each end. Strangely some of these double clips are not connected to each other and supply different circuits and the fuse must make contact at each end with both sides of the clips to work. Really weird.

I wondered about changing the fuse box to a more modern one using the modern flat fuses, but find the harness is so tight that drawing out the box to work on the back of it is almost impossible.

So.... I wonder if anyone has ever changed the fuse box and if so, how they did it, what they used and the results.

Regards to all,
Frank

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 Posted: 10-18-2016 08:24 pm
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Art DeKneef
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I changed the fuse box to a modern flat fuse box with 6 fuses. Currently using four of the six fuses. I did this during the rebuild when I had everything apart so it was a little easier working with the wires.

It wasn't that difficult but like everything with these cars time consuming. I made a couple of small brackets that I attached to the existing wiring harness cover opening. So the only thing I purchased was the fuse block, some fuses and wire ends.

So far it has been working fine.

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 Posted: 10-19-2016 12:47 am
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Frank Schwartz
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Glad to hear someone has done it before me. I assume you purchased the 6 fuse unit whee?? Car parts store...car audio store?
And those I see on eBay have lugs sticking out on each side to attach wires with connectors to. These would be in the weather, although the fuses would have a cover (if it came with one)... Can you tell me more??

Thanks,
Frank

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 Posted: 10-19-2016 01:28 am
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Art DeKneef
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This is pretty close to what I got.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/hla-h84960091?seid=srese1&cm_mmc=pla-google-_-shopping-_-srese1-_-hella&gclid=CNGk0szL5c8CFZSDfgodomkE9g

I didn't take many pictures of the process but here's one.

Attachment: DCP_0007.JPG (Downloaded 88 times)

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 Posted: 10-20-2016 12:10 am
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Frank Schwartz
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Art:

It looks like the connections are out at the bottom...although the fuses at the top are covered from the weather...how do you protect the bottom?

Also are the connections on the bottom for spade connectors or??

Thanks,
Frank

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 Posted: 10-20-2016 01:37 am
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Art DeKneef
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The connections are out the bottom. I didn't worry about the bottom being open that much because it hardly rains here, I don't plan on driving in the rain and I felt it was out of the way enough.

Yes, it does use spade connectors.

On the next car I'm going to separate some of the wires/circuits out and give them their own fuse.

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 Posted: 10-20-2016 03:04 pm
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gmgiltd
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Hi Frank,
I have a total of 16 blade fuses and 4 relays as described below – this is on a GT with fuel injection so items like rear screen heater, power windows, high pressure pump, ECU and auxiliary fan will not apply to a carburetted Healey.
1) Front side lights 5a
2) LH tail 5a
3) RH tail and number plate
4) Horn and headlight flasher 10a
5) Interior lights 10a
6) Instrument panel and under bonnet light 10a
7) Hazzard lights 15a
8) Screen washer 15a
9) Windscreen wipers (front and back) 25a
10) Rear screen heater 25a
11) Ignition 25a
12) ECU DTA S40Pro 20a
13) Heater fan 35a
14) Power windows 25a
15) Relay 1+2 30a
16) Relay 3+4 30a
Relay 1) HP Fuel pump (controlled by the ECU)
Relay 2) Aux fan (controlled by the ECU)
Relays 3+4 are spare.
Gordon

Attachment: FusesJHGT.jpg (Downloaded 69 times)

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 Posted: 10-20-2016 04:18 pm
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Frank Schwartz
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Absolutely fascinating...I have renovated two Jensen GT's and the fuse block was always a problem getting to function after thirty years of wrong size fuses and oxidized contacts...
From your picture, it seems it is right hand drive.

Also I have restored five or six Jensen Healeys (plus my Interceptor) and the electricals are always a stumbling block. I totally rewired my Interceptor as the wiring in it when I got it was beyond saving. I have new style fuses and fuse block and have not had one single problem in the fifteen years since I restored it.
Now, I think it is time I did something as you have, on the Jensen Healey now that I am working on.

Fuel Injection on a Lotus motor is fascinating. I'd appreciate particulars on that...suggest not on this link, but direct emails, if you are comfortable with that. I am at mfsjr2@comcast.net

Regards to all
Frank

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 Posted: 10-20-2016 11:06 pm
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t4brew
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The only commercially available fuel injection system I have seen is one from Lotusbits.com which uses Jenvey throttle bodies:

http://lotusbits.com/upgrades_fuel_injection.html


Since one of the fuse descriptions states "DTA S40" I assume it uses the same management system as the one from Lotusbits.

I would also like to read more about your fuel injection system. I am in the middle of attempting to fit a Lotus Esprit S4 fuel injection system to a Lotus 912 using a GM Quad4 ECU, sensors and wiring harness.

Last edited on 10-20-2016 11:11 pm by t4brew

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 Posted: 10-21-2016 01:04 am
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Frank Schwartz
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My goodness...at 2400 pounds, I think it is a bit pricey for my budget. Fascinating, but I'll have to stick to my old SUs that came on the car....

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 Posted: 10-21-2016 07:05 am
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gmgiltd
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We are getting a little off topic here but yes I got my kit from Mike Taylor at Lotusbits. You get a fair amount of competition quality stuff for the money particularly if you compare the cost and functionality of a pair of Dellortos and a Pertronix with multi point fuel injection with crank triggered ignition - cost difference is not that much.
I got the kit from Mike Taylor at Lotusbits which consists off
1) 2 off 48mm Jenvey throttle bodies with rampipes.
2) Throttle linkage and cable
3) Fuel rails and Bosch injectors (an6)
4) Weber fuel pressure regulator(an6)
5) Coil and sensors – temp, air ect
6) Crank trigger wheel mounted to pulley
7) Machined crank trigger bracket for sensor
8) High pressure fuel pump and fuel filter(an6)
9) Pro wiring loom (all tagged)
10) DTA S40Pro ECU
11) Distributer drive plug that does not leak.
What he did not provide and you need to source yourself.
1) Fuel hoses and an6 fittings - plus you need to run a return line from the fuel pressure regulator back to the tank. I used a self cutting fitting and ran this to the filler hose. from Merlin
2) Swirl pot – must have if you don’t like burned pistons. from Merlin
3) 2 off relays – the ECU controls the HP fuel pump and the Auxiliary electric fan – it provides switching current only.
4) Possibly a Tacho – some work some don’t – mine did not – got a Lucas competition type from Merlin
5) Lambda sensor + weld in bracket for exhaust
6) MAP sensor
Another thing to consider particularly in Europe (as the cost of petrol) is that fuel economy is significantly better - 5-6mpg better.
I am not familiar with the Espirit setup or the GM ECU
Gordon

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