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Brake Booster removal  Rate Topic 
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 Posted: 02-25-2015 05:42 pm
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answerman
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Hey everyone... as detailed in my "Project" thread, I have ordered and received a new brake master cylinder and a "slightly used" booster.  I was reading through the shop manual as to how to go about the removal of the booster, and the process there involves the disconnection of the throttle and clutch cables and removal of the pedal box.  Is that really necessary?

I assumed the Lotus position and peered up under the dash and, while it looks pretty tight, it sure looks like I can get at everything I need to under there.  I'm proposing to, from under the dash, remove the pin connecting the brake pedal to the booster clevis and then remove the 4 nuts holding the booster to the pedal box and remove it that way.  Is there a reason this wouldn't work, and how have you gone about the removal?

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 Posted: 02-25-2015 09:44 pm
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gmgiltd
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I have done it like that - bit awkward and probably easier if you take the steering wheel off. That's on a UK spec GT but I don't imagine there would be any reason why it should not work.
Gordon

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 Posted: 02-25-2015 10:20 pm
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answerman
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Removing the steering wheen is the first thing I do when I know I will be spending time under the dash, so I'm good there. I need all the room I can get.

Good to know at least someone has succeeded in this method, it seems like a lot less work than removing the pedal box.

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 Posted: 02-26-2015 05:02 pm
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UKJames
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Just changed the booster on mine last year. Actually more straightforward than I thought, did it all from the engine bay.

You can unbolt the pedal box from the bulkhead quite easily, and angle the whole pedal box out, really easy access to the nuts holding the booster on, and the clevis pin then.

 

Sounds worse than it is, and no back ache...

 

 

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 Posted: 02-26-2015 06:28 pm
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answerman
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You didn't disconnect the clutch and throttle cables?

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 Posted: 02-26-2015 06:44 pm
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UKJames
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Came out with the cables attached if I remember correctly. But once you can get at the back, its no trouble releasing the cables and the brake light wire if you wanted to put it on the bench to work on.
I was changing the master cylinder at the same time so I had a fair bit of room to pull the pedal box forward but it was straightforward, no headaches.

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 Posted: 02-26-2015 07:04 pm
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answerman
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Ok, you're right... that doesn't sound quite as complicated as the manual made it appear. I'll take another look at it: I always prefer to work under the bonnet as opposed to under the dash, given a choice. I'll also be replacing the master cylinder at the same time so like you said space shouldn't be an issue.

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 Posted: 03-02-2015 08:12 am
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answerman
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Well, did all this this weekend and other than one small (ok fairly major) issue it actually went pretty well. Unfortunately because of my lack of attention, I am probably going to have to pull it out and do it all over. Hoping that someone here (maybe Greg) can shed some light and verify that I'm right before I go to all that trouble...

(There is a question at the end of this post that I do need answered... sorry about placing it there but I figured you'd want all this info first)

First of all, thanks to UKJames for the advice on pulling the pedal box. That went quite well. I got the old booster removed without too much trouble. Then, I got the new one installed on the pedal box. Here's where things get interesting....

A side note: this is the booster that I purchased "slightly used" on eBay. It's the same one Greg used to sell in the JHPS club store a few years back (using his picture). Does anyone else have one of these?  Because my question is pretty specific to this particular booster.



When I installed it into the pedal box and connected everything back up, I noticed that the brake pedal was not quite lined up with the other pedals... it was over an inch closer to the floor.  In fact, I had measured the distance from the booster face to the end of the clevis on both old and new and found about a half inch difference.  If I would have stopped there, I probably wouldn't be asking what I am about to ask.

Anyway, being impatient, I put it all back together, got the new master cylinder installed after bench bleeding it, and when I went to test things I realized my problem.  That business about the brake pedal being lower was because the clevis rod is shorter, of course... but it's so short that it's not even contacting the brake light switch, so the brake lights never turn off.  Arggh.

So, my question (after perusing the boards first).. does this particular booster have an adjustment for the length of the clevis rod?  Is it as simple as rotating it to screw it in or out?  And... though I assume I already know the answer... is it possible to adjust it while everything is installed in the car, or do I have to take it all apart again?

Last edited on 03-02-2015 08:20 am by answerman

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 Posted: 05-04-2016 05:02 pm
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redracer
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Assuming the rebuilt one is the same as the originals, yes, there is an adjustment: if you have in back on the car, 1st remove the master cylinder to get it ot of the way of the push rod,
Next, have a friend step on the barke pedal to push the rod forward; you may notice that the end of the rod is hexed shape(5/16").
Use some vise grips at the very end of the round portion near the end end with your 5/16" socket turn(staandard right hand threads) the threaded end that goes into the round end.
CAUTION: be very careful not to use the vise grips far down the round rod or you may lose vacuum. Most of the seals there on our old boosters are hard/worn and a rebuild s called for.

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