Home 
> Jensen Healey & Jensen GT Tech > Ignition > oil in distributor 1975 Jensen

 Moderated by: Greg Fletcher  
AuthorPost
Bfitz241
Member
 

Joined: 02-05-2015
Location: Saint Augustine, Florida USA
Posts: 159
Status: 
Offline
Hi.  I'm new. 
I took the distributor cap off my distributor and found oil....yuck.   Now I've been led to believe this is a problem that cannot be corrected.  But I will ask anyway, are there any vendors or specific persons that can make an oil tight distributor?  Is there a recommended conversion ? Addition of a seal? 
I have a friend, who has a friend that can make parts and machine items so I could have the necessary work done if need be.
Also, I read with great interest about SteveD's electronic conversion.  I would really like to do something like that. Is he still providing the instructions?  I don't expect it for free.  I think a Megajolt system would be appropriate for my sill level....but I've been wrong before.
Thanks for any help guys.   I really want to save this LBC and make it daily driver capable.

Jim Ketcham
Member
 

Joined: 03-13-2005
Location: Salt Point, New York USA
Posts: 192
Status: 
Offline
You need an internal oil seal in your distributor. This has been covered in past posts here.
From previous post from Mark Rosenbaum:
DISTRIBUTOR INTERNAL OIL SEAL

Description: Shaft seal, 0.50" shaft, 0.75" bore, 0.125" height.

Material: Fuel- and Oil-resistant.

Used on: Lucas 23D, 25D distributors.

OEM P/Ns: Jensen: None. Lucas: Unknown.

Source: Chicago Rawhide CR4912 (exact replacement). [Verified fit.]

Source: Transcom TCM 13x19x3VG (nearest metric size).

Source: McMaster-Carr 9505K17 (different seal style). [Verified fit.]

Regards,
Jim

Bfitz241
Member
 

Joined: 02-05-2015
Location: Saint Augustine, Florida USA
Posts: 159
Status: 
Offline
Thanks for the reply. Chicago Rawhide....reminds me of the TR3 days.

Bfitz241
Member
 

Joined: 02-05-2015
Location: Saint Augustine, Florida USA
Posts: 159
Status: 
Offline
Found that old post.
Sorry for not looking in "Miscellaneous" for an ignition part.

Jim Ketcham
Member
 

Joined: 03-13-2005
Location: Salt Point, New York USA
Posts: 192
Status: 
Offline
I think it was an old post from the previous message board that got moved over. I, too, have trouble searching for old posts that I recollect but can't seem to find. But there is a wealth of knowledge in this board.

Bfitz241
Member
 

Joined: 02-05-2015
Location: Saint Augustine, Florida USA
Posts: 159
Status: 
Offline
Thanks for the tip.
I ordered the seals an o rings from Mcmaster

Bfitz241
Member
 

Joined: 02-05-2015
Location: Saint Augustine, Florida USA
Posts: 159
Status: 
Offline
As I posted I ordered the seal and O rings for my distributor.
HOWEVER, I neglected to ask- is that internal seal an original Lucas installation, or is it an upgrade?
IF it's an upgrade, could someone please walk me through the install? Youtube video? Thanks

Art DeKneef
Member
 

Joined: 03-12-2005
Location: Mesa, Arizona USA
Posts: 298
Status: 
Offline
It's original to the distributor. Often times forgotten to be put back on when the distributor is replaced.

Your choices for distributor stock distributor with points and condenser, stock with Pertronix module, new pertronix distributor or going electronic like Steve did. He's still around but it might take a few days before he checks in here. Let's see if he has updated instructions. If not, I'll look and see where the old instructions are.

Pretty much anything you want to know about the car has been discussed here before. You can try using the search function looking for information. You can spend hours reading the knowledge here. I know I have.

As for your other post about the car running poorly. Best thing to do is what you are doing. Go through everything and check it is in good condition. There's been a few threads on what to do with a new purchase. You're on the right track checking all parts of the electrical system. Then there's the timing and cam belt, carbs, brakes, etc.

Bfitz241
Member
 

Joined: 02-05-2015
Location: Saint Augustine, Florida USA
Posts: 159
Status: 
Offline
Thanks. I've done distributors before but don't have the tools to machine them. I hope the bushings are serviceable.
I'm in the process of moving and have to get the car to run well enough to drive onto a trailer and into my new garage.
Then all the systems will be gone through. Really looking forward to driving it.
I've tried the search function but am obviously using the wrong terms or looking in the wrong forum.

I'd really like to upgrade to a crank trigger ignition for control over the curve and I really don't think a distributor on its side is proper for it. Who knows, maybe with the new seal it'll be fine and then I'll install a pertronix and be happy with life.
I have access to a Sun distributor machine, so I plan to run the distributor on it and make sure everything functions.
Thanks

Bfitz241
Member
 

Joined: 02-05-2015
Location: Saint Augustine, Florida USA
Posts: 159
Status: 
Offline
I got my seal from McMaster and have a question....This seal has a tapered side and the sealing "spring" is toward the large part of the taper. Ordinarily, I would put the spring side of a seal toward the side where the substance I'm sealing against is, in other words the spring side goes toward the oil, or in this case, toward the bottom of the distributor. What is the accepted installation in this application? If I install the small side of the taper first, the sealing spring will be visible....Thanks

redracer
Member
 

Joined: 09-10-2012
Location:  
Posts: 119
Status: 
Offline
There is the large outer O-ring on the end of the shaft, then a smaller one for the plug holding the oil pressure relief spring(punch the split pin into the distributor shaft hole; we add up to 6mm to the back of the spring to raise the oil pressure up), and the shaft seal(not an o-ring) under the centrifugal weights; earlier distributors did NOT even have a seal, causing oil leakage into the distributor; for those that did not, we press the upper steel bushing down about5/6mm to allow space for the seal.
To the person in Massapequa; contact Jim Reilly (Coram, 631-938-3069; jimreilly@hotmail.com) who has a tremendous knowledge and parts for the J-H

redracer
Member
 

Joined: 09-10-2012
Location:  
Posts: 119
Status: 
Offline
There is the large outer O-ring on the end of the shaft, then a smaller one for the plug holding the oil pressure relief spring(punch the split pin into the distributor shaft hole; we add up to 6mm to the back of the spring to raise the oil pressure up), and the shaft seal(not an o-ring) under the centrifugal weights; earlier distributors did NOT even have a seal, causing oil leakage into the distributor; for those that did not, we press the upper steel bushing down about5/6mm to allow space for the seal.
To the person in Massapequa; contact Jim Reilly (Coram, 631-938-3069; jimreilly@hotmail.com) who has a tremendous knowledge and parts for the J-H

Bfitz241
Member
 

Joined: 02-05-2015
Location: Saint Augustine, Florida USA
Posts: 159
Status: 
Offline
Thanks for the reply.  If I understand you correctly, the center of the distributor drive gets  a small o ring installed and then the assembly is installed into the oil pump and spring. 
OR. if I have that wrong, there's an o ring that is installed on the outside of the distributor drive that fits into the oil pump housing. 
My car has neither of these.
Wouldn't the rotation of the drive ruin the o ring? Or is there appropriate room for the oring to spin and just act as a seal?
 

redracer
Member
 

Joined: 09-10-2012
Location:  
Posts: 119
Status: 
Offline
sorry; hardly ever get on this site, and when I do, it takes hours going through threads.
Hope you got your distributor "fixed" ?
There is no "O" ring on th einside of the shaft, just the visible one on the outside. Didn't mean to confuse you, but the other "O" ring I was talking about is on the large auxiliary oil pump housing and can easily be removed while the distributor is out.Shimming the spring up to 6mm will give a higher presuure at the higher RPMs, instead of the maximum of 55psi it was originally set at.(good rule of thumb: 10psi for each 1000rpm).
When using a pin drift to remove the pin holding the end of the drive dog onto the shaft, mark/scratch so the dog goes back on the same way, or you will be 180 degrees from the original orientation.
hope this isn't too late



UltraBB 1.172 Copyright © 2007-2011 Data 1 Systems