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Got it started  Rating:  Rating
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 Posted: 05-18-2016 11:35 pm
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Bfitz241
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water pump in, bypass hose and thermostat included in that. slow progress..

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 Posted: 05-21-2016 02:50 pm
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Bfitz241
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Checked all the valve clearances, thankfully within spec. Valve covers were a Bitch to clean, but finally got the silicone sealer off. Think I'll try the gaskets from the Club store.

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 Posted: 06-07-2016 11:25 pm
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Bfitz241
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rear main seal pressed in and instALLed. Flywheel and clutch in. Tomorrow, hopefully, bellhousing and transmission.

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 Posted: 06-29-2016 11:56 pm
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Bfitz241
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Nope, I was wrong. The ape that was in here before me saw the need to strip 4 of the bellhousing attaching bolts. Although I am in no way looking forward to it, the engine will now come out along with the front subframe. Might as well kill 2 birds and what not.
Can someone direct me to how to post pictures? I searched and got nothing. Thanks

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 Posted: 07-03-2016 03:40 am
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Bfitz241
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I've hit a snag...let's just say it's not always easy to get the engine out by yourself. Anyway, I'm waiting for approval for the MRI on my knee so I decided to do something easy to kill time. I was able to fix my mirror. Pulled out the glass, the screw had pulled out. Tapped it for 10-24, JB welded a stainless stud in there and reinstalled the spring with loctite and flat and lock washers. Put the glass back in. piece of proverbial cake. At least that's done. I'm going to fiddle with things that aren't heavy for a while.

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 Posted: 07-20-2016 01:37 am
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Bfitz241
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Upper and lower control arm bushings replaced, strut rod bushings on the bench,
Waiting for: outrigger bushings, rack boots, and tie rod ends.
Brake flex lines replaced.
Right caliper seized solid, outer piston stuck in the extended position and visibly pitted and outer pad down to metal, inner piston stuck but pad still has material on it.
Left caliper both pistons move but not well, both pads have significant amount of pad left.
Anyway to tell if these are original calipers or a replacement from a Triumph or something? Both calipers have a G cast in the inner half.
Both calipers full of water/brake fluid mix
Upper subframe to body mounts replaced.
Speedometer cable got snagged on the engine during removal and has been rendered unusable. That's what happens when you're tired and working alone. September is target date for actual use.....but based on what I've seen so far, the rear braking system will be in an equal state of disrepair. Time will tell....

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 Posted: 07-24-2016 12:45 am
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Bfitz241
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To paraphrase Edd China, lots of faffing about. I would use other words, but this is a family friendly site. Got the outrigger bushings in. That's a good thing.
This car has "Spax" shocks in it. I turned the adjustment dial and they tightened up, so I'm going to try them. If they fail, they fail. I found an Energy Suspension bushing that pressed in to the bottom of the shock perfectly. It's polyurethane, only issue is it's one piece as opposed to the 2 piece that fell out. The lower shock bolt hole spacers were both different lengths and different diameters. I ordered some Bilstein generics [5/8 OD X 7/16 ID] and will cut them to length.
Any one have a suggested setting for the Spax shocks? Right now I'm going to try "4" clicks, seems pretty stiff, compresses well but rebound is very hard. Thanks

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 Posted: 07-25-2016 09:33 pm
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Bfitz241
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after only what, six weeks(?), I finally got the F$%^&*(# bellhousing back on. Not in the car mind you, and the trans is still on the floor next to the engine. But the Bellhousing is ON!

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 Posted: 08-02-2016 03:15 pm
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Bfitz241
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Back to the suspension...as I said, the car has Spax shocks and I'm going to give them a second chance. The issue is the P/O [whom I will affectionately refer to from here on out as "The Ape"]. When The Ape installed the shocks, he used 2 different length and diameter[!] spacers at the bottom. I mocked up the lower shock mount and it is roughly 1.190" in length from bolt hole to bolt hole. I got some generic shock spacers but they are wrong in both dimensions also, only the hole size is correct. I will turn them down and part them off to the correct outer diameter and length.
The next issue is that the lower shock bushings, once again installed by The Ape, had been completely pulverized. I say due to the wrong bushing being smashed into them, but what do I know. To combat this Apishness, I got some generic polyurethane shock bushings. They pressed in beautifully but unfortunately are too long. Since I don't want to mimic THE APE, I will be facing them off in the lathe to the correct length. Looks like .125 per side will do it. No cutting will happen until I triple check all dimensions. Unfortunately I won't be able to get this done as soon as I like as I have have family commitments for the next 2 weeks.

Last edited on 08-04-2016 11:50 pm by Bfitz241

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 Posted: 10-21-2016 01:58 pm
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Bfitz241
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Been a while....engine, transmission and front suspension back in. Calipers rebuilt and installed with new brake pads. Power booster installed yesterday. New stainless flex lines installed front and rear. New tie rod ends and rack boots installed.
Today will be the master and cooling system. If there's time the fuel tank and all that will go in.
There's a British car show on US 1 @ the King's HEad Pub in St Aug I want to go to. My brother's bringing his TD, I had hoped to bring the JH but that's not happening.
Had a new shifter boot made since a mouse ate the original by Delcher's Leathers in either Neptune or Atlantic Beach. Nice fellow, has a pet parrot in the shop.
More as it occurs

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 Posted: 10-23-2016 03:10 pm
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redracer
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Just "discovered" these threads; sorry I got here so late, as I at least could have helped you through some of the standard J-H problems. I do not have much experience with Dellortos, so I'll leave that to the other experts, but do with most of your other problems. Please call or email me if you like(although it seems like you're almost finished)
bruce madden
RedRacerbm@gmail.com
404-261-2552
SKYPE : RockClimber52
(I have used SKYPE to real-time help J-H owners with problems)

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 Posted: 10-23-2016 03:49 pm
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Bfitz241
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Appreciate the offer. This all seems like standard car stuff to me. Most annoying issue I have now is the d___n rack leaks now that I filled it up...Any suggestions for that? Leaks out the left boot tie rod end and through the lower cover. I'm open to suggestions or I'll just go medieval on it.

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 Posted: 10-23-2016 03:58 pm
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redracer
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Delta sell replacement boots; I don't like the nylon fasteners that come with them so I get the longest "thin" worm clamps(just fit) or put a couple together.
They are a pain to "slip" on so rubber grease will help. Be sure to count the number of turns when "unscrewing" each tie rod (usually 15-23). Use 90W and a little MoS2 (about 6 ounces into it after reinstalling. I remove the top 2-bolt cover plate, tweezer out the parts, and carefully fill it there.

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 Posted: 10-23-2016 11:11 pm
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Bfitz241
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I was curious how people were saying they add oil through that top plate. So those parts just pull out and go back in? Good to know.
I think I fixed my leaky rack boot, I pitched the screw clamp and actually put a zip tie on it. If that fails I'm going for the plastic ratchet clamps used on outboard motors.
I also had lube leaking out one of the bolts, so I took it out and covered it with permatex thread sealant...I think I got it.
Took the rear brakes apart and no suprise it needs rear shoes....fortunately nothing is leaking....drums look reusable...have to measure them

Last edited on 10-23-2016 11:11 pm by Bfitz241

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 Posted: 10-25-2016 02:21 am
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Bfitz241
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Today, made some progress. Radiator and fan in. rear drums and shoes ordered and on the way. Rack still leaks. Thanks to Redracer, going to try his method to stop the leaks and fill it back up...Tomorrow's plan is to finish up the loose ends under the hood. Hopefully get the fuel system back in. It may actual run this year. And tires, need new tires.

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 Posted: 10-25-2016 03:19 am
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Jensen Healey
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My leaky rack secret is to install a zerk fitting in the plate and use grease instead of oil. My JH has been running grease in the rack for 15 years and about 15,000 miles. No worries.
Kurt

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 Posted: 10-25-2016 03:23 am
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Bfitz241
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do you use any specific grease? how much do you use? I like the idea..

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 Posted: 10-25-2016 10:42 pm
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Bfitz241
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Today; drained the rack. Thanks to Redracer for his tip. drained it through the lower plate [the one that leaked] and refilled through the top. Used a plastic ratchet clamp [ACE hardware, available in multiple sizes] on the left rack boot and used THE RIGHT STUFF rtv on the lower cover plate. So far, no leak.
Drained and refilled the rear end as the cover was seeping...The Ape had used blue rtv....well I used THE RIGHT STUFF....refilled to the plug and no leaks yet.
Installed radiator hoses, temp switch for electric fan, heater hoses. Then I got tired and went inside. Will continue under the hood tomorrow provided I don't have to back track due to leaks. Also filled the transmission, greased both u joints and the driveshaft slip joint...all of these things were dry. The rack had been empty, probably for years, and the rear was about half full.

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 Posted: 11-04-2016 03:50 pm
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Bfitz241
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Took a look at my carburetors yesterday. Dellorto 45s.
I'll list what I found for those interested:
Cold start jet 95 [that seems excessive to me]
Main air corrector 230
Main emulsion tube 7772.7
Main jet 158

Idle jet holder/air corrector 7850.9
Idle Jet 58

Auxiliary venturi 8011.1
Chokes 36mm

Admittedly I'm not a Dellorto guru, but based on the book and the presumed level of engine modification [not much] this setup seems to be all over the place. To me it looks like he was trying for high rpm hi flow high power but at the same time trying to keep the low speed lean for economy.

I'll say this, it sooted up a new set of plugs in about 20 mins idle time and that's with an MSD 6 AL.

Comments appreciated

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 Posted: 11-06-2016 02:01 am
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Bfitz241
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trying to post a picture

Attachment: .phone pictures 159.jpg (Downloaded 37 times)

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