| ||||
| ||||
| Moderated by: Greg Fletcher |
|
||||||||||||||
| Courtesy Light Installation | Rating: 
|
| Author | Post |
|---|
| Posted: 07-12-2005 02:18 am |
|
1st Post |
|
dciaccio Member
|
I have just installed the new Hella courtesy light advertised in the JHPS magazine. I also installed new door switches from DMS. Here is the issue. The light works when I manually turn the switch on, but not when the doors open. The car did not have a courtesy light originally. According to the wiring diagram, the wiring all appears correct...I think. Here are the checks I have been through: LEFT DOOR SWITCH: 1. Have 12v at the purple wire into the switch (one of the three terminals). 2. Have continuity on the purple/black wire from the left door switch (second terminal) to the right door switch. 3. Purple/pink wire (third terminal) has continuity to the harness plug under the dash. (Is there any special order these go into the three terminals on the switch?). RIGHT DOOR SWITCH: 1. Purple/black wire (continuity from left door) into the new switch & from switch (same terminal extended) to light. 2. Purple wire tapped from nearby harness (in door frame by hinge) and extended directly to courtesy light (not through the switch). 3. Black ground wire directly to courtesy light (not through the switch). I hope this is fairly clear. I was hoping maybe one of you could check your car and see how it is wired. Thanks for the help! Dave '73 JH #12248
|
||||||||||||||
| |||||||||||||||
| Posted: 07-12-2005 05:11 pm |
|
2nd Post |
|
Mark Rosenbaum Member 
|
The courtesy light in my car came from Delta and its switch has three positions: (1) Light always lit, (2) Light never lit, and (3) Light lit when either door is open. Presumably the JHPS courtesy light is similar. If so, it should have two terminals on one end and a single terminal on the other. The first two terminals go to (a) a Black wire connected to chassis ground, and (b) a Purple-Black wire that runs to the two door switches. The third terminal goes to a Purple wire that comes from Fuse #3 and which should have +12V at all times. If the two terminals on the ground end of your light are in fact always connected together within the light, do not use the Black wire. You will then have only two courtesy light functions regardless of the number of positions the light's switch may have: (1) Light never lit, and (2) Light lit when either door is open. Alternately, if you connect the Black wire and ignore the Purple-Black wire, your options become: (1) Light lit, (2) Light not lit. The Purple-Black wire from the courtesy light goes to a bullet junction. Coming from this junction are two Purple-Black wires that go to the two door switches. The passenger's door switch has electrical continuity to chassis ground when the door is open. I've seen two different switch types used here: in one, its ground is provided by a second contact on the end of the switch, to which a Black wire is connected; in the other, ground is provided through a contact under the head of the switch body, and thence through the mounting bracket. For this second type, paint in the wrong location(s) will prevent its electrical operation. The driver's door unit contains two separate switches. One operates identically to the switch in the passenger's door and always derives its electrical ground through a contact under the head of the switch body. The other contact for this switch is on the rear and takes the remaining Purple-Black wire. The second switch element of the driver's door unit has electrical continuity between its two terminals when the door is open. The two Purple-Pink wires connect to these terminals in either order. One of these wires comes from Pin 10 of the Infamous Seat Belt Warning Module and is connected to the buzzer inside the module (the buzzer gets its power via a different pin of the module's round connector). The other wire goes through Pin 1 of the ignition switch connector to the screw-in terminal on the the side of the ignition switch lock body. Here, the buzzer sounds if (a) the driver's door is open and (b) a conductive object inserted into the ignition lock touches both the (grounded) body of the lock and the contact of the screw-in terminal. The purpose of this is to alert a driver, who is in the process of exiting the car, that the key is still in the ignition switch. It does make a difference where the wires on the driver's door unit are connected. The easiest way to determine which contacts are which, is to use the resistance measuring function of your voltmeter to identify the two contacts that are connected together when the switch button is not pressed. There should never be any continuity between these two terminals and (a) the third terminal, or (b) the contact ring under the head of the switch. These switches will eventually wear out and will need repair or replacement. When testing a switch, wiggle the button in all directions while pressing and releasing it. Any undesired electrical connection or loss of connection, or a slow or sticky button, indicates a failed switch. A switch that sticks in the 'on' position can result in a discharged battery, or conceivably in a wiring harness meltdown. You can use a passenger's door switch on the driver's side, but in this case the two Purple-Pink wires should be taped off, and you will lose the door-open-key-in-ignition warning.. Hope this clarifies things.
|
|||||||||||||
| ||||||||||||||
| Posted: 07-17-2005 02:15 am |
|
3rd Post |
|
dciaccio Member
|
Thanks Mark. The JHPS light sounds the same. It has two terminals on the switching end of the light. Accordingly, I will connect a black wire to one terminal and a purple/black to the other. On the other end of the light, I will connect the purple to the single terminal there. As for the door switches, yes, they are the new ones from DMS. They have the ground contact under the head. I am confused on the driver's door switch. Are you saying it has two switches? I just have the one round white switch with the three terminal on the back. I only have one purple/pink wire as well. It goes to the warning buzzer . Is this a problem? I am not sure where, or even if, the seat belt warning module still exists in this car. Haven't looked into that one yet. As for that driver's door switch, you mentioned determining which of the three terminals have continuity when the switch is not depressed. Once I find those, what wires go on these two terminals? Let me know. Thanks again Mark.
|
||||||||||||||
| |||||||||||||||
| Posted: 07-17-2005 04:33 pm |
|
4th Post |
|
Mark Rosenbaum Member
|
Perhaps I caused some confusion by using the term 'switch' in two different ways. I'll try to clarify things below, using switch solely to describe an electrical function and unit for a mechanical object which contains one or more switches. There are two separate switches within the driver's side unit, and only one within the passenger's side unit. Attached is a photo of a (broken) driver's side unit, and a passenger's side unit. Note that the driver's unit has three terminals on the back and a ground connection under the head (broken off in the photo), while the passenger's unit has one terminal on the back and a ground connection under the head. Also note that you can use a (more expensive) driver's side unit on the passenger's side, in which case two of the terminals there will not be hooked up to anything. For the driver's side unit, what I would expect to see, when the unit's button is NOT pressed, is: (1) Continuity between two of the terminals with no continuity the ground connection. Probably these are the two male blade terminals. (2) Continuity between the remaining terminal and the ground connection. Probably this is the female bullet terminal. You will need to verify things for yourself, then hook up the wiring as appropriate. This means: (a) The wires from the Infamous Seat Belt Warning Module (ISBWM) and the key-in-ignition detection thing go to whichever two terminals behave as in (1) above. It makes no difference which wire connects to which terminal. Normally these wires are both Purple-Pink. The Purple wire with +12V on it that you mentioned previously is not correct; perhaps there is a fault in the connector that goes to the ignition switch, or perhaps a PO did something perverted with the wiring. (b) The wire to the passenger's unit and the courtesy light goes to whichever terminal behaves as in (2) above. Normally this wire is Purple-Black. The ISBWM is located on the driver's side kick panel, above the footwell and forward of the dash. The turn signal and hazard flashers, and the start relay, are in the same area. Good luck, and please keep us posted on how things turn out. Attachment: door switches.jpg (Downloaded 45 times)
|
|||||||||||||
| ||||||||||||||
| Posted: 07-20-2005 05:54 pm |
|
5th Post |
|
dciaccio Member
|
Thanks for the detailed information, Mark. I will take a look at first of next week. Headed on a few days of vacation. Thanks for the JPEG image of the connectors as well. I'll see if I can take it from here. Will keep you posted. Dave
|
||||||||||||||
| |||||||||||||||
| Current time is 08:31 pm | |
| > Jensen Healey & Jensen GT Tech > Electrical & Instruments > Courtesy Light Installation | Top |
