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| Moderated by: Greg Fletcher |
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| Engine Removal | Rating: 
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| Posted: 10-16-2013 10:51 am |
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1st Post |
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michaelD Member
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I am new to this site as well new to Jensen Healey ownership ! So forgive the rookie question. I need to remove the engine to clean and replace some parts and want to pull the engine the right way so as not to damage anything. I have pulled engines or dropped them in the case of a VW, but want the correct procedure on the JH. I will be using an engine hoist to do the job and would like to know the correct lift points to do so safely. mike D
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| Posted: 10-16-2013 11:32 am |
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2nd Post |
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jcdean Member
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It is easiest by far to remove leave the engine mounted into the subframe, remove the mounting hardware from the subframe to the chassis, elevate the front of the car, and roll the engine and transmission out as a whole. This is greatly simplified, but I am sure you realize all the hoses and exhaust fittings that will need removing to accomplish this as you would need to do pulling the engine up through the top as well.
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| Posted: 10-16-2013 01:11 pm |
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3rd Post |
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Jensen Healey Super Moderator 
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I have pulled the engine using a hoist and it is not difficult. The aluminum intake manifold is not to be used for lifting. It will break. Find a couple of bolts to attach a chain. I used one in the front and one in the rear. The method described above has been used by many folks with good results. Once the subframe is detached, the transmission mount can be removed so the engine and trans will be left on the ground when the body is lifted off. Make sure to drain the transmission on 4 speed cars before removing the driveshaft. Ask me how I know! Kurt
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| Posted: 10-16-2013 01:23 pm |
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4th Post |
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Dan (Florida) Member
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I hope you have a level concrete floor possibly inside to do the job. The shop manual I have says pull the engine with the exhaust on and leave the transmission in place. Put the front end up on stands and remove the hood, radiator and fan. wires, lines , clutch cable steering shaft and muffler. take the trans bolts out, block up the trans . I dont advise pulling the engine with the trans on. Its a one man job with lots of new experiences. I would lock the steering column straight ahead before pulling the lower shaft off , and once off check the upper steering shaft for play. That plastic lower bushing may need changing. Also check the left front motor mount for shims. The engine sometimes is shimmed up for the steering shaft to clear the headers. You may have to loosen the steering rack to get the shaft out. Take a picture of the steering shaft in place so you will know how it is supposed to look. With the3 engine out is a good time to check lower bearings and seals. The rear main seal on the older engines can only be replaced with the engin out and the crankshaft out. Also if you can afford it take the flywheel to a machine shop and have them remove a couple of pounds of weight off of the outer rim of the wheel. It makes a noticeable difference. hth, Dan
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| Posted: 10-16-2013 04:44 pm |
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5th Post |
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Art DeKneef Member
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Having pulled the engine both ways my preferred method is raising the front of the car and removing the engine and trans as a whole unit. I found it easier and quicker by raising the car and supporting it with jack stands. Plus I could do most of the work myself. It just takes longer. Either way you need to remove/disconnect all the different wiring and cables but you don't need to remove the hood unless you want to. Support the trans, I used a small movers dolly and the whole unit moves easily. Plus it is supported and pretty stable for most of the work you'll probably want to do. A few months ago I had 2 grandsons, age 9 and 10, help with putting the unit back in the car. They helped lower the jack stands gradually and aided in making sure the gear shift fit into the opening. I believe it took us 30 minutes to lower the body and align the holes for the 4 bolts. Art
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| Posted: 10-16-2013 09:56 pm |
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6th Post |
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michaelD Member
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Thanks everyone for the great advice. I have not had a chance to get under the car to check out the sub frame but will do so to determine which method might work best for me. Also Art, I have a 12 year old grandson that will be helping with this project, he has already requested that we not sell the JH until he is old enough to find a storage so he can keep it. Bye the way that was his request for this years Christmas gift from us. Looks like we will have a loooong time guest in our shop/garage.
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| Posted: 10-17-2013 11:14 pm |
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7th Post |
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roland11a Member
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Just a note on the comment about lifting the engine by the inlet manifold. A close neighbour of mine used to work for Lotus and was involved in the early days at the Jensen factory. He states that the recommended sling point for the engine was a strap around the middle two pipes if the inlet manifold. This gives a near perfect balance point to lift the engine out, admittedly this is for engines fitted with dellortos. I have used this method to lift my engine on and off the engine stand with no problems as the engine is very light compared with many others i,ve worked on.
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| Posted: 10-18-2013 12:00 am |
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8th Post |
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Jensen Healey Super Moderator
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My Dellorto inlet manifold had to be tig welded due to such lifting. Use this method at your own risk.
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