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Turn Signal Self Cancelling  Rating:  Rating
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 Posted: 04-11-2012 05:39 pm
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George
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Hello everyone.  My GT has, I believe, an MG turn signal switch replacement.  When i turn the wheel the switchs try to turn with it.  It looks like the self cancelling mechanism on the switch is too tall and the steering wheel is pushing against it as it turns.  Enough friction to cause the switches to move, but not enough to stop the wheel from turning.

I have the little half circle spacers in place and the proper torque on the nut


I thought I remembered reading somewhere that on some switches you need to shave down the plastic ring a bit, but now I can find no reference.  Thanks

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 Posted: 04-12-2012 08:20 am
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MikeIsotech
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Hi George,

I had the same problem with an MGB switch. As you say the plastic self cancelling collar is too long. The good news is that it can be modified fairly easlily by cutting it down and deepening the slots to fit. It now works just fine. If you still have the old switch, take a look at the collar to get the size you need.

Mike

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 Posted: 04-16-2012 03:03 pm
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George
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Thanks for the info!  Cut it down and it works great.  I didn't find I needed to modify the slots.

 

g

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 Posted: 03-28-2013 05:38 pm
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answerman
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Resurrecting an old thread.

While I was puttering with my choke cable, I decided to investigate another issue since I've gotten very good at removing Ms. Jenavieve's steering wheel (it makes working under the dash so much easier) and it seemed like an opportune time.

Seems like the steering wheel has never mounted properly, like I couldn't tighten it down all the way, and upon further investigation it would appear that one of the PO's has replaced the turn signal switch with an MGB one (as many others on this forum have done).

The switch has the big blue plastic cancelling collar, and looking at it I can see why the wheel won't tighten down properly since it's not able to seat without mashing up against the cancel collar.

I have searched the forum and found a bunch of references to cutting the collar down, but nothing specific as to "how much should be removed" or "what is the proper thickness". Anyone know that off the top of their head? The engineer in me says to do it this way:
(1) mount the wheel as is, snug as I can
(2) note the position of the nut on the shaft
(3) remove the wheel
(4) remove the turn signal switch assembly
(5) mount the wheel again, snugging it down properly
(6) note the position of the nut on the shaft again
(7) compute the difference between (2) and (6)
(8) remove a little more than that from the collar.

Unless someone can say "you need to remove 1/2 inch from the collar" or something like that, I guess that's my approach. I figure the worst case scenario is that I take too much off and I lose the cancelling feature.

Anyone?

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 Posted: 03-29-2013 06:21 am
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answerman
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Well, being impatient and with time on my hands... I answered my own question. I went ahead and did my experiment as above.

Assuming Ms. Jenavieve is a good representation of a typical JH, here's the detail: I took about 3/8 of an inch off the collar (almost down to the existing lug slot) and then deepened the slots almost as far as possible, about 3/16 of an inch. Put it back together without the shroud so I could see. The back of the steering wheel hub is barely touching the blue cancelling collar, and the lugs engage nicely. Put it all back together properly, and everything works great. 

I will probably be taking it apart when I do the radio install since it's so much easier to work in there without the steering wheel in the way, and I will take a couple of pictures so the next poor slob like me can see how I adapted it.

On to the next "little thing" in the ever growing list.

Last edited on 03-29-2013 06:23 am by answerman

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 Posted: 03-29-2013 01:20 pm
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George
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Glad it worked out for you.  On mine it turned out I cut  it down a bit too far and the cancelling only worked intermittantly, I think photos would be a big help to people.

 

george

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