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R/R front pads and now LR Brake locked up  Rate Topic 
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 Posted: 01-29-2012 10:02 pm
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Somebodystopme!!
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I replaced the front pads on my 74' and took it for a spin but theree was a terrible pulsing action and then it felt like they locked up.

I got it back in the garage ok so everything seemed fine but when I put the car up on stands the fronts looks good as expected. I thought one of the pads may have come loose fron the backing or something but everything looked good and turned free up front.

Then I lifted up the rear of the car and found the LR wheel was locked up.

The right wheel turned free and fine so I left it on the car.

The drum was locked onto the wheel but it came off after 15 min or so of tapping around the back of the drum.

The axle spins free so the wheel cylinder must be stuck is the only thing I can think of.

I lifted the lever of the adjuster and made sure it moved back but the shoes didn't budge. (drum will still not fit on)

In putting on the new shoes I made the mistake of splitting the LF caliper beforehand so I had to bleed the brakes. I didn't bleed the rear as I thought since it would be unaffected by the fronts.

Could air cause the wheel cylinder to lock up like that? I thought it would make it mushy but not lock in the engaged position.

Shoes appear to be in great shape as well as the interior of the drum. PO must have had it done in the past couple of years. No rust but plenty of cobwebs.

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 Posted: 02-10-2012 03:33 pm
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pbahr
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"In putting on the new shoes I made the mistake of splitting the LF caliper " ?????  Are you talking about the front?  That end of the car has PADS, not SHOES.  Assuming that you mis-spoke, and really meant to say pads, you actually made a big mistake - you really should not split the caliper - NEVER ! ! ! !

You could have several problems with your system - probably crud in the fluid that may be blocking lines of Pistons in the rear.  You don't say how the fluid looked.  Was is clean?  When was the last time the ENTIRE system was bled?

Once you have the problems youi indicate, trying to pick-and-choose fixes doesn't work.  I would suggest the following:
  • Rebuild both the front and rear Calipers and Pistons.
  • Remove the brake line fittings fromt the Calipers and Pistons.
  • Purchase several cans of fluid and fully flush the entire line system.
  • Reconnect the Calipers and Pistons and bleed again.
  • Get SpeedBleeder fittings to make the job very easy http://www.speedbleeder.com/  
YELODOG
 

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 Posted: 02-11-2012 02:14 am
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Art DeKneef
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Another thing to do if needed is to check the brake hoses and make sure they are good. If in doubt, replace with the braided lines. As long as you are going over the brake system.

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 Posted: 02-11-2012 04:23 am
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pbahr
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Yeah, I forgot that the hoses can fray internally and put rubber bits into the lines........

YELODOG

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 Posted: 02-11-2012 06:19 pm
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Greg Fletcher
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Just my opinion, but I think that's an old wives tale about splitting the caliper halves. You actually need to do it to rebuild them properly, but you will need the correct fluid resistant o-ring to replace it and do it right. I think they tell you that in the manual as liability issue, if it's not done correctly or with the correct parts then it can result in brake failure and be dangerous.

Anyways, for the original poster, the problem you are describing is exactly what I had when my brake master booster went south. It would become over active as it were and make contact with the master cylinder rod, overheat the entire system and lock up the rear drums. It took me quite a while to figure that one out. If that's the case, a rebuild or used booster will do the trick.

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 Posted: 02-14-2012 12:41 am
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Somebodystopme!!
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The speed bleeders are on and bleeding was a snap. Still had a noise in the right rear wheel this time.


Finally got the drum off and low and behold the lining has delaminated off the shoes. Now I need to get new shoes and have the drums turned.

It looks like they've been turned a few times in the past. Hope they still have some life left in them.

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