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HPV-1 distributerless ignition system  Rating:  Rating
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 Posted: 11-11-2011 02:05 am
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Rob Rawe
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Ignition light does not light up when the key is turned on to start engine, & the engine will not start. I thought it might be an issue with the alternator ,so I took it to a rebuild shop ,but only thing they found wrong with it was a bad bearing.
They suggested checking to see if the bulb for the ignition lite was burnt out , because if it was it wouldn't complete the circuit. I pulled the lite out of the holder & didn't see anything wrong ,so I change it with the seat belt lite because it lit up when the mtl. socket it was in thouched the metal backing of the dash.But when I switched the bulb to ignition lite it didn't work either. The engine would crank over but not start.
I'm totally at a loss as to how automotive electric circuits works. Could it be a problem with bad connection in the fuse block?
Any help someone can give me to resolve this would be greatly appreciated.

Totally frustrated :(
Rob & JH #14120

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 Posted: 11-11-2011 12:05 pm
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Dan (Florida)
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Correct me, someone, if I am wrong but the ignition light you speak of has nothing to do with the ignition system. When it is lit it shows that there is power to the exiter circuit  in the alternator. Why they used a light marked "ignition" I don't know, but if your ignition system is working properly you have no need of that light. If you have the original style multi wire alternator you may need that exiter circuit to generate power.

If the plugs are sparking and the fuel pump is working it's probably a timing issue. Read up on everything you can in the archives here and get ready for a learning experience.  Better yet find a Lotus mechanic that can troubleshoot that issue.

hth  Dan

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 Posted: 11-13-2011 04:56 pm
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Rob Rawe
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The alternator has multiple wires going to it and the alternator is a Delco Remy, manufactured in England by AC Delco. I don't know if this was the original equipment or not. I assume it would have been a Lucas manufacturer if it was original.
Also the fuel pump does not operate when the key is on and there is no spark at the plugs when cranking the engine.
So again, if it is not a wiring issue I assume it must be something related to existing fuse block. I have had trouble in this area in the past and I would pull the fuses and scrape around the clip-in terminals and put the fuses back in and things would operate. I am wondering if there is an upgrade that can be done to the fuse block using new technology?

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 Posted: 11-13-2011 05:26 pm
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jcdean
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http://hotrodwires.com/

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 Posted: 11-13-2011 11:41 pm
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Jensen Healey
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You have the OEM alternator. They used a Lucas unit in later cars.

The issue with Lucas electrical systems is the contacts. The brass gets tarnished and the pins get loose.

Clean all contacts until the're bright. Tighten up connections by crimping or putting a slight bend in the pins. Use dielectric grease sparingly when refitting.

Do not open the wiring harness unless it has melted!

The early JH's will be 40 years old next year! CLEAN THE CONTACTS EVERY 40 YEARS!

Kurt

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 Posted: 11-16-2011 11:02 am
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Rob Rawe
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Removed the existing fuses (35amp). rolled up narrow strip of emery paper the size of fuse x 1/2" lg. & held one end with a needle nose pliers & went over each prong of the fuse holders, & wiped each pair of prongs with a shop towel stuffed in between them. Installed new set of AGC 20amp fuses, have not used the dielectric grease yet.
Tried to start, but fuel pump still does'nt work & no spark at the plugs! Guess I'll start tracing out wires with a ohms meter next?

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 Posted: 11-16-2011 05:16 pm
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Jensen Healey
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Hi Rob, Check for 12 volts at the fuses. I think the top two are hot with the key on.

All the power comes from the brown wires at the battery junction in the starter motor area. They are all hot all the time. Remove the + battery cable, clean the contacts and pinch as needed for a tight fit. Retest.

If still no power, find the 3 way connector in the engine bay wiring loom and open it for cleaning. Retest. Then go to the 5 way connector behind the ignition switch. Test the brown wire for 12v.

Every connection is suspect, just ask Mitch! Last weekend we went around testing and cleaning and came all the way back to the brown wire connections battery junction. He had the same symptoms you're having but had 3 issues at the same time, intermittant feed through the ignition switch, bad alternator, and the bad connection.

Good luck, Kurt

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 Posted: 11-16-2011 05:33 pm
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Jensen Healey
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Thanks to the Jensen Owners Club in the UK, there is a wiring diagram available.

http://www.joc.org.uk  Go to JOC Stuff and then downloads.

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