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RC Smith Member
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Hello all, Today I switched out the gas tanks from 14438 (98,000) and 15517 (41,000) and finally got to relive a bit of my youth. Wow! this car is everything that I remember. The car (15517) runs like a champ. I am having a blast with the original radio/8track player. Once again I want to thank Mark and Judson for helping me out. Attachment: 11_28_2004 11_41 AM_0001.jpg (Downloaded 69 times) |
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Mark Rosenbaum Member 
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Congratulations! Glad I could provide you with some assistance. |
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RC Smith Member
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I do have one other question. The light switch needs to be replaced, I have a delta switch but I am unsure which of the colored wires mounts to the side? I am asumming this is the off postion? Thanks again. Ray |
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Mark Rosenbaum Member
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Delta used to supply a little information sheet explaining how to connect the new switch but I can't find my copy. So, while the hookup information below should be correct, you'll need to verify it on your own car. Start by disconnecting a battery cable. Then, if you still have the original style switch, cut off the factory pin-connector socket and install the female blade connectors provided by Delta. Be sure to strip the wires correctly and install the connectors properly or you will soon have electrical problems. Do not install the new Delta switch just yet. Looking at its rear, you should see three blades near one end of the switch in a staggered arrangement as follows: * The BLUE wire goes to the blade nearest the end. This is the headlights power line that goes to the steering column high beam / low beam switch. * The two RED wires go the next blade, which should be offset from the others. This is the dash lights and parking lights power line. * The BROWN wire goes to the remaining blade, which should be more or less centered on one side of the switch. This is the UNFUSED HOT line from the battery. Be particularly careful here. Turn off everything in the car except the clock. Next, cautiously reconnect the battery. You may see a tiny spark at the instant the battery cable connector makes contact with the battery post. However, if there is a BIG spark, IMMEDIATELY disconnect the cable as you probably have an unexpected short circuit to chassis that will melt your wiring or even set the car on fire. Find the short and eliminate it before proceeding. Once the battery is reconnected, test the Lights switch. With the writing on the switch in the normal reading position, press in at the top and all lights should be off. Press halfway in at the bottom, and the dash and parking lights should come on. Press in all the way at the bottom, and the headlights should come on -- high or low beam will depend on the position of the stalk on the steering column. If by chance I'm wrong about the wiring hookup, you'll need to experiment with wire positions to get the correct results. Once satisfied, disconnect the battery, install the switch in the dash, connect the wires as appropriate, then repeat the battery hookup and switch tests as described above. A NOTE ON CONNECTION METHODS. According to NASA, a good crimped connection is more reliable than a good soldered one. However, in both cases 'good' requires correct use of the proper tools, and a $3.99 crimping tool from the discount table at the local auto parts store isn't likely to be the sort of tool that NASA had in mind. I suppose a bad crimped joint is slightly better than a bad soldered one, but one should expect problems either way. |
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RC Smith Member
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Mark, I am unclear on the where to connect the 3 wires. If I am looking at the back of the switch, I see two connectors near the top and one off to the right side directly in the middle of the switch. So is it top left (blue) top right (brown) and off to the right side in the middle (two red)? Thanks again, Ray |
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Mark Rosenbaum Member
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Ray, I'm afraid my memory was faulty. The switches from Delta are not quite identical to the Lucas ones and their connectors are in different locations. I apologize for the confusion. In my defense, I can say only that my car is not permitted to have electrical problems, so I never have to look at the switches. I've attached a sketch showing how the Delta switch should be hooked up. The switch is being viewed from the contact side. Attachment: Delta Lights.jpg (Downloaded 128 times) |
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RC Smith Member
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Great!! The head and tail lights work as well as the instrument lights. The blinkers are not working but I guess I will give that a shot next weekend. Thanks for coming to the rescue again Ray |
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RC Smith Member
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Mark, Ok so I went to bed sunday and I had the head lights and the instrument lights working. I woke up moday and now the instrument lights don't work, but the turn signals do. Any ideas on what or who snuck in my car while I slept? LORD LUCAS!! Ray |
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Mark Rosenbaum Member
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So you were visited by Lurking Lord Lucas, hm? I'll have a word with the fellow next time I see him.... You note that the instrument lights have quit, and the turn signals are working where they previously were not. Other than the fact that the wiring for both systems runs through the same part of the wiring harness, about the only thing they have in common is the 9-pin steering column connector. Check both sections of the connector and make certain that every wire is in good shape and firmly attached to its pin, and that every pin is in good condition and secure in its hole. If necessary, replacement connectors complete with pins are available quite inexpensively from British Wiring (usual disclaimers). You didn't mention whether the headlights and side/tail lights remain functional. (1) If the head and tail lights work, there's a problem in the wiring that runs from your Lights switch, to one side of the Dimmer rheostat, and then from the other side of the Dimmer through a connector to the dash lights themselves. Check for a wire that's become unplugged from the Dimmer, or a broken/disconnected red or black wire at one of the connector pins leading to the instrument pod. (2) If the side/tail lights work, but the headlights do not, there's a problem with the blue wire that runs from your Lights switch to the high beam / low beam switch on the steering column. (a) If both high and low beams are dead, the problem is on the Lights switch side of the wiring. Check for a wire fallen off your Lights switch, and for broken wires at the connector pins. (b) If only one is dead, it's in the beam select switch itself, or the wiring from it to the headlights. Again, check for broken wires at the connector pins. (c) Examine each of the bullet connectors clustered in front of the radiator. These tend to become deranged when the lighting circuitry is made to work after a long hiatus. Use carburetor cleaner or electrical contact cleaner to remove any grunge on each bullet and receptacle, burnish off any corrosion on the bullet, and apply a light coat of dielectric grease to each bullet before reinserting it. This should eliminate future problems here (though the wires might some day break due to vibration and fatigue). (3) If headlights, side/tail lights, and dash lights are all dead, either your new Lights switch has died, or there's a problem with the brown wire going to it. Make sure the connector attached to the wire is still making good contact with both wire and switch. Make sure there's +12 volts on the brown wire. If so, the switch is probably bad. If not, and only the lights are dead, there's a problem between the brown wire and the Battery Junction in the wiring harness. If a lot of other things are also dead, either your Battery Junction has come apart, or there's a problem between the tap on the battery positive cable, the 3-pin connector in the engine bay, and the Battery Junction. Whatever the cause, it shouldn't take long to find and fix it. Good luck and enjoy the hunt. |
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RC Smith Member
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Mark, The head lights/Hi beam work fine. The turn signals come on but dont flash. I will see what happens this weekend. Thanks again Ray |
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