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U-Joints?  Rating:  Rating
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 Posted: 02-06-2011 01:27 am
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SpeedyMitch
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I'm getting an occasional but terrible sounding 'clank' and some other new and funny metallic noises.

I'm ready to replace the u-joints but upon inspection there appears to be no play in any direction in the drive shaft at the u-joints.

Any other likely culprits I should look at prior to this PITA job?

Thanks in advance,

Speedy Mitch

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 Posted: 02-06-2011 04:04 am
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pbahr
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Just when do yoy get the noise?????????

YELODOG

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 Posted: 02-06-2011 04:18 am
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SpeedyMitch
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pbahr wrote: Just when do you get the noise?

It seems to be mostly around town driving. It does not always happen when the load changes direction on the drive-line (i.e. accelerating to decelerating). I seem to notice it most when shifting between 2nd and 3rd.

There is no drive-line vibrations that I can feel through the 4-speed shifter.

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 Posted: 02-06-2011 08:26 pm
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Jensen Healey
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Hi Mitch, I drove around for a while with an intermittent noise. When I replaced the u-joints one was coming apart. I was lucky the driveshaft didn't drop out on the highway.

I would recommend replacing as a maintenence item and not waiting for failure.

I have that oil cooler part you need if you want to come by.

Kurt

 

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 Posted: 02-07-2011 01:49 pm
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Lash Russell
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Hi Mitch,

   IMHO thisis one of those no-brainer tasks, not really worth thinking about.  If you don't know the service history or when the last U-joint was put in (could very likely be the original from the factory), I'd just replace them anyway.  I think I paid $18 per U-joint and installed them myself on my old shaft.  As far as certain projects on the JH go, relatively somple and inexpensive.  Make sure to drain tranny first on the four speed!!!!  Can be a bit finniky (SP?) getting the U-joints into the collar (make sure roller pins/bearings don't fall out of the caps or get misaligned during installation).  This is a job you can do yourself if you have a bench vise and some sockets (for pressing the caps in) and basic tools, and of course patience.  If you haven't done this before and don't want to deal with it and want a tranny shop to do it I don't think it would cost too much.  End result, U-joint issues pretty much eliminated for likely the life of your car.

Good luck,

Lash

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 Posted: 02-12-2011 03:40 pm
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SpeedyMitch
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Done deal. New u-joints, rear transmission seal, and crush washers from Delta. 2 quarts of Valvoline VR-1 20-50w. An evening of fun with the vise and sockets. Viola - mystery noise is now a history noise.

The worst part of the job is refilling the transmission. Laying under the oil coated Jensen with one of those lame oil hand pumps... There has GOT to be a better way to fill the transmission.

Now to stir up the flaming hornets nest (we don't really have flaming hornets nests on this board - everybody is too nice here)... I also added about 10 fl. oz. of that famous snake oil, Lucas Heavy Duty Oil Stabilizer, to my aging, crunchy 4-speed transmission.

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 Posted: 02-12-2011 03:59 pm
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pbahr
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I'm sure you will be flamed.

But, how can a LUCUS product ever screw up a British car?

On all my cars I always add MoS2 to the Tranny and Rear - just a bit, to reduce contact wear on the gears, but not enough to screw up the synchos.

YELODOG

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 Posted: 02-12-2011 05:38 pm
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Lash Russell
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Nice job Mitch,

  No flaming hornets here, everyone too busy with gettin on and makin friends.  No time for drama.

Lash

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 Posted: 02-13-2011 03:10 pm
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Jensen Healey
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Hi Mitch, 

Motor Honey? I would have thought Redline MTL for a guy like you!

Let us know how it works.     Kurt

I haven't had to use my super (moderator) powers since the Chinese computer spam incident left 1000's of posts on the board.

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 Posted: 02-14-2011 03:42 am
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SpeedyMitch
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Jensen Healey wrote: Motor Honey? I would have thought Redline MT for a guy like you!

Jeez, only 40 something posts and I'm already getting a reputation...

However, in just this case you got me pegged. I already tried Royal Purple Synchromax synthetic manual transmission fluid. This stuff works great in my "other" manual transmission. But the JH does not take manual transmission fluid in the manual transmission. It uses regular engine oil. The synthetic stuff is too thin and the transmission would hardly shift.

With only a few trips around town I will say that the Jensen shifts *slightly* smoother and the transmission is *slightly* quieter. Any change could easily be attributed to the desire to justify spending $15 on VR1 + honey to replace the VR1 that had been in the transmission for only about 2000 miles.

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 Posted: 02-14-2011 12:22 pm
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jcdean
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On a previous Jensen (can't seem to do without having at least one) I had a very noticiable vibration start in the drivetrain.  By the time I got home it was simply awful.  Pulled the driveshaft and saw that the cups were so shot that they had actually deformed the yoke on the drive shaft.  Took it to a driveshaft specialist and they said they could fix it, no problem.

Went to pick it up a couple of days later and the "fix" was they had pressed new cups into the yoke. You could actually see daylight in places around the cups.  As I was moving back to Oklahoma and that was all I had to drive and I was cash poor, I figured I would try it and if I broke down I would fire off a phone call for money from good ole Mom and Dad.  Well, it lasted for 4 more years until I sold the car and never even had a hint of wobble. 

Whodathunkit?

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